Murray_Calavera

I've got 2 sets of wheels, both my track and street rears came up for replacement at the same time. I popped 120 treadwear NS2R on the track set and have been using them on the street. So now I'm in an awkward spot, I really like them on the street, even in the wet but that rate at which they are wearing, I'll probably only get about 7500km of street use out of them. So now I'm torn, do I just accept that wear rate or should I pop something like some RS4's on the street set, or maybe try the 180 treadwear version of the NS2R.... What wear rate are you happy to accept for street tyres?

Mako makes this - https://makomotorsport.com.au/collections/nissan/products/nissan-skyline-r34-mfd-mount-2 I bet they could make this - and this To have a baby. That would get you half of the way there.

More inspiration stuff- https://www.skylife4ever.com/2011/02/nissan-skyline-r34-mfd-display-swap.html

You could take inspiration from something like this - https://zada-tech.com/products/multi-gauges/nissan-skyline-gtr-r32-r33-r34-multi-function-gauge-display Then model it up for your Link MXS in something like Fusion 360 and get it 3D printed.

Can we see pics please

If you google R33 double DIN head unit, you'll get a million examples. Then mount the Link MXS in front of the stock cluster?

Just a random thought, is there no e85 in the UK? I was wondering why its on a meth blend rather then a flex setup.

I'm confused by your question, is this what you're asking? You want to install a double DIN head unit. You want to install a Link MXS dash, somewhere inside the car. You want to keep your stock dash cluster. Is that correct?

Looks like a good starting point. If your keen on it, best bet would be to chat with PRP and see how the peddle bracket mounts up.

You could make up a kit for yourself. As you'll be making it up yourself, the world's your oyster as to how you achieve this. I'm eventually going to run DBW on the factory manifold as well. I'm keeping my eye on this kit so I can have all the hard work done for me. https://outsidergarage.com/products/complete-rb-r32-dbw-adapter-kits

True, if you want to extract everything from the slick, the suspension needs to be setup with that in mind. However only changing the tyres and nothing else, the slicks offer another crazy step up in performance. This is a nice video showing that - Funnily enough, the video shows exactly what I said above. The step from street to R comp is the same again going from R comp to slick.

Plus their connector is sexy! Well worth paying for.

Sounds like a pretty well setup car. If you remember what it was like going from street tyres to A052, you've got about that much performance again to be gained from going from A052 to a race slick.

Sounds good. As everyone else is saying, if you haven't created a roll centre problem for yourself (by over lowering the car) then I think you are imagining a problem that isn't really there. Why do you think there is currently an issue with the cars roll centre? Back to some more practical advice, you say you want a 'precise' handling car, to achieve this you delete all the rubber bushes and hard mount/rose joint everything. Strong chance you'll then hate the car on the road so I don't recommend you do this. You'll also be creating a tonne of extra work for yourself as the rose joints are high maintenance. I'd say at this point your biggest win is going to be by putting some real tyres on the car. I'm guessing you do open track days and don't race in a class that restricts your tyre size or compound. So grab yourself a second set of wheels, the widest you can fit under your current guards and pop on a set of serious tyres such as - https://samotorsporttyres.com.au/product/hankook-ventus-z214/ or if you want to spend a bit more https://samotorsporttyres.com.au/product/hankook-ventus-f200/ And if your Mr money bags, there are plenty of other manufacturers eg Michelin, Pirelli or Yokohama, who make slicks that would love for you to make a donation to them. Your current setup on a real tyre will be much quicker round the track then whatever setup your imagining on a street tyre will ever be. Plus you get to keep your nice handling street car/street tyre combo for daily duties.

Yep, an innovate or AEM or whatever you choose to use for the wideband controller. Something like this will do the trick. https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/x-series-wideband-uego-afr-sensor-controller-gauge.html You then feed the 5V single from the controller to the ECU. You'll probably want to use the wideband gauge until you get a better solution like a standalone dash. Yeah the other temp and pressure sensors get fed into the ECU, provided you have enough inputs/outputs left to accept them. Answering you0r post below, yeah you could use the 1 ECU for multiple cars, you don't need to use a "mil spec" connector. Superseal connectors work well and the tooling need to crimp the connectors is cheap. If the whole pull the ECU out, plug the laptop in, upload the tune etc etc, each time you want to drive the other car doesn't bother you - yeah go for it.

What has been done to the suspension/aero so far and what is the intended use for the car?

Where do you live?

Oh my sweet summer child, never change.

Only ever seen BHP used in the UK.

I would say it's a serious reply. Assuming the car is built well, how long till you experience breakages is 100% down to how the car is driven. If you use it on the street and drive around like a cop is following you, the car will last a looooong time. If you are driving it in anger or using it on the track.... you might break something on your first event. Consider this, proper track cars at that power level (850HP), that are raced over the year, might do what 8 events in total? If nothing broke, they would still have the engine pulled down and inspected each year. So yeah, 850HP from a 2.5L engine, the engine is a consumable item. If you use it, you consume it. It's up to you how long it lasts. And also, if the car is driven hard, expect to be regularly replacing that gearbox and the driveshafts if they are stock.

When it comes to crash safety, I think the most important factor is having the bigger car in the collision. If a 100 series Landcruiser with a bull bar and a late model Mitsubishi Mirage were involved in a head on collision, I would much rather be behind the wheel of the Landcruiser, despite the Mirage being 20 years more modern with a higher safety rating. Having said that, my vote would be for a mid 2000's Camry/Falcon/Commodore/etc. It's the best combo of large vehicle/modern vehicle that I can come up with.

Can you think of a scenario where twins out perform a modern single?

Well if the motor is built then it's built. There are many good reasons for higher compression ratio though, more power at all rpm, increased turbo spool, better off boost performance, more low end torque.... I could keep thinking of ways to say "the engine will perform better, everywhere" but you get the idea.

I'll keep it simple, the answer is no.

This would be the cheapest way to paint it. Blend the colour over the damage and clear over the red highlighted area. What you would do is back-mask using that body line. Here is a good example video of the technique.