Murray_Calavera

Have a think about an upgraded clutch pivot ball, it's cheap insurance.

At a very general level - On the street, going wider you'll notice more tramlining and tendency to hydroplane in standing water. (On the street, one would hope you aren't doing anything to cause a tyre to overheat, however if you are the below also applies). On the track, going wider improves the tyres ability to handle heat which improves grip levels and wear rates. Wider tyres generally means larger tread blocks, this again improves the tyres ability to handle heat.

What does the just send it button do?

Sometimes the correct decision is to stop throwing good money after bad If the company that sold that kit had a picture on their site of it fitting correctly, I'd be chasing a refund (false advertising) and going down another path. I can't see your 'cheap' body kit being cheap after you've paid the bodyshop to make it fit.

So would an extra 6" be enough? lol https://www.quickjack.com.au/accessories/slx-frame-extension-kit-pair.html

It's not cheap, but would something like this work - https://www.quickjack.com.au/accessories/truck-adapter-set.html

So, Sparco QRT-C $2,546 Sparco alloy side mounts $356 (steel ones are $180, but we are balling here) Sparco base plate $395 Everything x 2 = $6,594 with a potential weight savings of 15.38kgs provided they are starting with powered seats. Don't mention that fact that we just replaced seats that previously reclined and previously could slide back and forth on a rail, with a seat that doesn't recline or slide. Worst bit being, using a factory 3 point harness with that seat would be a nightmare and it's not street legal/not ADR approved. I still stand by my previous point that pulling weight out of a street car is not realistic or practical. Don't add lightness, just add performance/power. If you want a lightweight car, start with a lightweight car.

Here it is. R33_Wiring_Diagram.pdf

I'm not going to do this for every "actual example" you gave, so lets just do the first "example". So this carbon seat you're going to install, are you planning to just place it in the car and hope that with enough hopes and dreams it will stay in place or are you planning to mount it properly? Looks like you might need one of these - (it weighs 1.45 kg) https://www.sparcousa.com/product/qrt-side-mount-steel And one of these - (Amazon lists the weight as, 2.26 kg) https://www.sparcousa.com/product/seat-base-600-series Sparco don't list the weight on their site (probably because the real weight is too heavy to market well, so they just leave it out), hopefully the Amazon data is accurate, but who knows. Anyways, the moral of the story is, you are not installing a Sparco QRT-C seat at 6-8kg total when the side mount and base plate are 3.71 Kg on their own. Anecdotally; I have a bride fixed back seat in my car, on alloy side plates and on a bride steel base plate. I can tell you that as soon as you mount one of these 'super light fixed back seats' they are no longer super light weight. I'm not typing all of this up to have a go at you, I'm typing it up in an effort to keep facts on this site factual. You just asked for help with a wiring diagram, how helpful would it be if everyone here gave you a pinout that was "close enough" I mean, half the wires are correctly labelled, isn't that good enough for you? You'd kinda want all of your wires to be correctly labelled yeah? When people talk about how much weight they can save by swapping 2 parts, I think it would be most helpful if the numbers posted reflected reality.

So, you just made up a bunch of numbers? Do you really think making up numbers helps anyone? It's about as helpful as all the fake weight loss ad's, "Lose 10KG in 10 days with these meal replacement shakes!!"... uh huh.

My street tyres really have to be able to hold up to everything. I just drove down to Sydney for WTA, if a crazy storm hit on the way back up to QLD, I still want to be confident with the way the car handles and feel that I can safely get home. That's good news for the RS4's, I was a little concerned when I measured the tread depth at just under 6mm, I would be over the moon to get 20k out of them. I'm surprised how much life you got out of the R888R's as they are rated at 100 treadwear.

Reporting back on the NS2R 120 treadwear. I only got 6,400 KM on the rears, no track work and no shenanigans on the road. They were really nice while they lasted, even in the wet. I would really like to get around 10,000 km from my street tyres so I'm trying RS4 now. Initial thoughts on the RS4 are the dry grip levels feel similar to the NS2R, so if I can get 10,000 km out of them I'll be really happy and probably won't bother trying any other street tyres and I'll just stick with them.

A surface that the primer can bond to and not easily flake/peal off.

If you were keen to see what your air fuel ratio is, you're only real option is to install a wideband o2 sensor and a control unit/display/gauge. It's worth mentioning, if you were planning to buy an aftermarket ECU sometime in the future, I'd think about holding off on buying the wideband until you get the ECU. Then get the ECU with a built in wideband sensor or buy the associated CAN based sensor. The standalone wideband gauges can be plumbed into an aftermarket ECU, but they are a bit shit compared to a wideband that is operating over a CAN network or is built into the ECU (voltage offset errors are a nightmare, there is not fault reporting to the ECU, etc). Regarding the 82% learn reading, if the car is running fine otherwise, I wouldn't be too worried about it. The gauges aren't giving you enough information to be able to work out if there is something you should be worried about regarding the air/fuel mixtures. Getting the external wideband o2 gauge would give you the information you needed to work out if something was wrong with the AFR.

Why not swap the studs one at a time without removing the head?

Just checking, is there a check valve in the fuel pump or installed in the line?

I would be keen to see what the fuel pressure and AFR mixture is at the time the engine dies.

What ECU do you have? Have you had a fuel pressure gauge on it while it died? When you say "then not turn over again" do you actually mean the engine won't physically turn over or do you actually mean the engine turns over but doesn't fire?

Is there any chance at all that you could return it for a refund?

Which set costs 4k? The MCA Pro Comfort full set is $2,490. There is another option that gets you a bit closer to your original budget, the Voston Comfort set is $1,890. Maybe have a chat with MCA and see if it would suit your needs. There is nothing magical about the factory coilovers. Aftermarket coilovers can be setup to more comfortable then the factory suspension. When you have complete control over the spring rates and valving, you can select the specs that are right for you.

You've got this thing connected to your phone over Bluetooth yeah? Would you be able to upload a screenshot of the gauges/meters you would like some clarification on?

Just to clear something up, coilovers are a coil spring over a shock body, coil-over. The factory suspension component you are calling a strut is a 'coilover'. I know what you are talking about but it might be confusing for others. Saying the factory coilover is more reliable (or lasts longer) then an aftermarket coilover is not accurate - provided we are talking about a quality aftermarket coilover. It's really hard to explain how much nicer a high quality mono-shock is compared to a cheap twin tube shock. As with so many things in life, until you've experienced it for yourself, anything I write here will just be words on a screen. You're in a bit of a tricky spot, sitting on a set of king springs that you want to use... I would want to pair them with something like a set of Koni or Bilstein shocks. But by the time you buy the shocks, you've spent another $1,500ish... and what you have is a set of non-height adjustable coilovers that don't have the valving perfectly matched to your springs.... and sure you can have them re-valved but it all adds up. But yeah, it puts you so close to a set of MCA Pro Comfort for $2,500, which you can have a chat with MCA first and select the perfect spring rates and shock valving..... I just think there is so much more value in spending a bit more and getting the MCA setup.

Occam's razor says the issue with the airbag probably has something to do with the horn issues. Let us know how you go either way. I vote poor value. Assuming the fronts are the same cost, so around $900 for shocks alone? Your so close to paying for a set of MCA?shockworks coilovers once you factor in buying king springs as well. I'd keep saving for the big boy coilovers. Future you will thank you.

The sensors protect you against changes. If you tune a car properly on a wideband, then remove the wideband, the car should run exactly the same provided the car is operating within the parameters of its tune, and provided nothing fails on the car causing a change in the AFR mixture. On a properly tuned car, the wideband should only be making very small adjustments to the tune, think 1% or 2%, adjusting for the atmospheric conditions at the time. Well its your car, do you need someone to tell you what to do to it? What would you rather, a blown head gasket or the car to engage its engine protection condition in the event that you start to lift the head? Its like a $130 sensor. Do what you think is best. Power level isn't the primary factor for having oil starvation, the way the car is driven is the primary factor. As an example, if you put some slicks on an otherwise stock skyline and push it round the track, you will 100% have oil starvation issues in high G high speed corners. Having big power just makes it easier to achieve the conditions where oil control is an issue. If you just potter around on the streets on slippery tyres, sure you won't have any issues with oil starvation.

Cars have been tuned without those sensors fitted for a long long time now. When the car is on the dyno, they put a wideband o2 sensor up the car's but to get the AFR. So you didn't "have' to buy those sensors, you could have taken the car to another tuner. Obviously it makes sense to run those sensors though. Did you also install an oil temp and coolant pressure sensor? Those are also sensors that you would run engine protection on. But yeah, do whatever you think is best. It's called a broken turbo, burnt valves, broken oil pump.... Ah sure, did your tuner also ask you to install an electronic throttle body and individual wheel speed sensors? If you are going to be as liberal with the anti lag as it seems you are by the description you've given it, just be prepared that your engine and everything hanging off the hot side will become a consumable.