Murray_Calavera

When you key off, the volts come back up to normal on the battery. Crank it and back to 8volts. We tried it maybe 5 to 10 times, same thing every time. I've never done this before, how do I do this? Funny story. When my mate installed the starter, he only had the connectors done up finger tight. When we tried to start the car the first time, the starter motor got cooked. The new motor didn't come with any accessories, the starter motor in the car now is from a wrecker. I assume its good but can't 100% confirm. The battery is like a day old, we bought it then started trying to get the car firing that day. I mean it is possible that a brand new battery is faulty, however after the above starter motor story, I'm inclined to believe my mates handy work is to blame and not the new battery lol.

Hoping to get a few ideas to help troubleshoot this issue, I'll try to keep it short. A mate popped the motor in his 2018 LDV T60 with the 2.8 turbo diesel motor. He swapped it and I was his phone a friend when he got stuck. The new motor is in, however it won't fire. The battery is literally brand new, when you crank it the volts very quickly (say 2 seconds of cranking) drop to 8 volts and the engine stops turning over. Watching the belts, I'd say they move about 5cm before coming to a stop. We put a booster pack on, no change. The only potential issue I'm aware of is, when we pulled the motor the grounding strap was still attached. The strap copped a thrashing before we realised what was going on. It looks okay-ish but it's going to be replaced to rule it out. The main challenge is, I wasn't there for 90% of the work. This is his first time doing any major work on a car and he was learning as he was going. He thinks everything has been put back together properly, however I'm not entirely confident that this is the case. It would be good to get some ideas about what else to check. The car isn't spitting any codes so that doesn't help. I've attached a photo, because why not lol.

If you are genuinely considering trying to get this engineered, I would strongly advise finding the engineer that is happy to sign that off first before you put the hole in your car. I've seen cars get defected for this and not be able to be put back on the road as no engineer they spoke to was happy to sign if off.

I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same

I've also got a quick jack. I would never get under my car again without using it. While it might be quicker to use a jack and stands, it is such a quality of life improvement that I wouldn't have it any other way now. How much slower the quick jack is to setup will be based on your circumstances. Can you leave the jack rails on each side of the garage? Can you leave the hydraulic lines attached? etc. If you can drive the car into the garage and simply push the jacking rail thingos under the car into place, it is super quick to setup and use. But if you have to pull the pump unit out of storage, attach the hydraulic lines, wheel out the lifting rail thingos.... yeah takes a bit of time. Having said that, I would still prefer that to using a jack and stands lol.

@joshuaho96 Hmm considering the drama you've seen/experienced, have you looked into getting a built complete long motor shipped from Australia? Considering the AUD is basically monopoly money when compared to the USD, at a glance this seems like a good option?

Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time. I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo.

Nah, shouldn't have made any difference. Reds on, or car running, should be same same for what you were doing.

Indeed!

If it is the case that your stock dash high beam light lights up as it should, all you have to do is tap into the power wire for the high beams dash globe and feed it to pin 25 on the Haltech dash.

I thought you said the stock dash high beams light doesn't light up when you push the stalk forwards and lock the high beams on?

Yeah ok, so this was an issue prior to installing the Haltech dash. If you want it sorted, time to start chasing the factory wiring to see where the circuit is open. But if it didn't bother you that it wasn't working on the stock dash, I suppose it doesn't matter if the Haltech dash also doesn't work?

What am I missing here? When you flash high beams, the factory dash globe lights up. When you set high beams on, the factory dash globe lights up. For the Haltech dash, all we are doing is picking up the factory dash globe lighting circuit, the same way it was done for the blinkers etc. When I wired up my dash it was all the same process for each dash light. I don't understand why this is becoming so complicated?

Jump on youtube, search for bump steer gauge and enjoy the show.

Yep, mine works perfectly. Did you work off the wiring diagram here? https://www.haltech.com/wp-admin/admin-ajax.php?action=ht_get_file&id=633e67ff2f02d268520a8812&op=1

That's a hell of a question right there and so broad that you could get 100 different answers and have them all be correct. To avoid me typing up a 2000 word thesis that doesn't answer your question, do you have specific things you are unsure of? Does the car currently handle in a way that you don't like? Or is it closer to, you think the car drives fine currently. But you'd like it to be better, but you don't know what that 'better' is or what that 'better' feels like?

Pretty much what you'd expect at that power level. Hypergear turbo, long list of supporting mods, full Haltech catalogue, etc. I'd say this goes for most drivers, suspension is still a dark art for most people. And it's really hard to convince someone how much better their setup could be...

Yes. The only scenario I can imagine when the answer isn't yes, is if you drive like there is highway patrol behind you at all times. If your car currently runs, enjoy it and keep saving. Better costs more, keep saving until you can budget the better ECU. It's worth it. Nope. Plenty of us making >300kw on unopened motors. Mine is unopened and makes about 350kw if I turn everything up, its fine (lots of caveats here, how the car will be used/abused, how long you expect the engine to last between rebuilds, how has the engine been maintained prior to coming into your ownership, etc etc).

Haltech fanboi reporting in. Buy the Haltech!

This might be true if you live in NZ but I can't see how this could be true for us locals here. I've found the customer support for Haltech to be absolutely amazing. I've turned up to Haltech and spent entire days with their tech support guys, they've even helped me with wiring dramas that had nothing to do with their products. They have the best customer support of any company I've dealt with, I can't imagine how my experiences with them could possibly be any better.

It's a slippery slope... this is only the beginning lol

I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it. I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000. My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+. Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive

Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection. What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this. Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct. Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor? https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on. Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool. I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it. I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?

Based on this - and this - My advise is to find a local workshop that is trustworthy and has experience building GTRs to the level you want to achieve.

I have questions - * what are you using to detect knock? * do you have knock ears or any other way to listen to knock? * your driving a R33 yeah? what are the knock sensors your running, factory is the old school style yeah? Do you have modern bosch knock sensors? * have you deliberately induced knock to see what it looks like on your ECU/knock monitor and listened to it to hear what it sounds like?