Murray_Calavera

Hi all, I wanted to get some thoughts on running 4032 forged pistons. I'm only looking to make around 300kws as I'll be limited by stock exhaust manifold and internal gate. The car will mainly be used on the street however will get track abuse every other month or so. The more I think about it, 2618 just doesn't seem appropriate for my needs. I'll have to run a larger cylinder to wall clearance, so more engine wear, more blow by, more engine noise to filter out with the knock sensors etc and I'll never see anything close to the power they are rated at. The issue I'm having is trying to find 4032 pistons, it looks like Supertech and Mahle still do them however at a cost of about $1,500! I was expecting 4032 to be a cheaper option but I guess the price is due to the low demand. With my power figure in mind and the cost of 4032's, I'm starting to think if I should just run factory pistons? I had a quick look, seems like I should be able to get a set of new oversized stock pistons for about $700. Hmm...

That was a bit of a tease, let's see the timing table as well lol

Probably worth an update, so my daily drift car has done a big end bearing. Guess it was only a matter of time with no oil control mods done on the engine. Next one will have pump, sump, restrictors, drain etc etc - hopefully no more spun bearings. On the plus side, still haven't broken any driveline or suspension components.

All of them? Full exhaust Front mount Fuel system - injectors, rail, reg, fuel pump, etc ECU - flex sensor & wideband (you'll probably want fuel pressure, air temp, oil temp, oil pressure as well for engine protection etc) Dyno tuning costs Labor costs for above as I'm guessing you'll be paying to have it all done So only another $10,000 or so on top really lol

Hi all, I've pretty much got my shopping list sorted for the new fuel system, there is only one thing left to work out... dual entry or single entry setup for the fuel rail? I've been strongly recommended by a few people to run dual entry with the center return setup. Their main argument tends to be that due to the length of the rail, I might see a pressure drop across the rail and I could have a cylinder slightly lean out at times. This doesn't make a lot of sense to me, the way I see it if the fuel pump can keep up and the reg is doing it's job then the fuel pressure should always be equal across the rail. The more I look around the more I find people running both setups, and I can't seem to see any downsides performance wise either way. I'm keen to hear some more thoughts on the matter.

If your creative you can create your own form of traction control using the speed limiter function 1. Create the table using gear and rpm as your axis 2. Populate the tables, inputting the speed that you would achieve in each gear vs rpm with no wheel spin 3. In the main setup for the speed limiter, set the tolerance say 5 kph with ignition as the limit method 4. Then you can play with the ignition cut %, say start around 30% - 50% for a nice soft cut. See what works for you by adjusting the % cut I run a pro plug in, no complaints here

Yep, been closed for a while now

Thanks heaps for all the feedback everyone. Will be going with the ID1050X's setup for sure.

Yep have thought long and hard about that before I started my build, it's all been setup with 300kw in mind. If I want more, I'll build a turbo k swapped mx5 and the skyline will stay at 300kw.

So if we had 2 identical cars, one running 740s and the other running top feed, the top feed car would have a noticeably better idle? I've never been in a skyline with 740s but I'm guessing they idle fine? I just don't want to pay more for say a 5% improvement in idle quality

I appreciate that modern injectors are a better thing, but will I benefit from it if I'm only making 300kw? I can't see that I'd ever need more then base fuel pressure

Hi all, I'm about to put a set of injectors in and I can't seem to look past just throwing in a set of nismo 740s. I'm only looking to make around 300kw on flex, so I can't see a reason to use anything else. Doing a top feed conversion just seems like more work and cost for no real gain. I assume I'm correct in that the nismo 740s will idle fine, run e85 fine and cope with 300kw? So is there any real world advantage to using a modern injector, say ID1050X? Cheers!

No worries, I hadn't had any luck finding a place that could rebuild it but at least I have hope now. I'll keep digging. Also thanks for the Amayama back up plan, not keen to spend $1,600 however will if that's my only option

What state are you in? This would be legal in NSW once the car was engineered.

Who did the rebuilds for you?

Is this something you've personally done or know anyone that has? I'd be worried that the rebuilt compressor will fail in a few years time =/ Any ideas on who could rebuild it and costs involved?

Hi all, Has anyone been able to source a replacement AC compressor for an R33 gtst? I'm not looking to gamble on a 2nd hand item. All I can seem to find is the R32 GTR compressor on RHD and when speaking to my air con guy, he didn't have the part listed. Cheers!

Langs Differentials in Hornsby is also pretty good, nice guy too

Thanks heaps for the advice problem fixed! As advised, I threw in a 30AMP relay with a 20AMP fuse and hardwired the fuel pump. I can't believe the difference it made. I've got another log to upload, look at that beautiful sweeping AFR as the boost and RPM rise. A nice and safe 11.1 AFR with 6500 RMP and 10 psi of boost. I also switched over to wideband O2 control, so satisfying cruising around at 14.7 AFR now. Previously it would run super rich on light load and super lean on high load getting me around 15 liters per 100km. I'm looking forward to seeing how much my fuel economy improves. Very excited, it's like I have a new car

Ah yep, that makes sense now

I'm not having any luck finding the kit on Kudos Motorsports, other sites I'm checking the kits seem inconsistent with what they supply and prices are $30-$100. Also I'm not sure what the plug going to the fuel cap is exactly? Is this as simple as going to Jaycar, picking up a 30A horn relay for $6, grabbing some 4mm wire and crimps/heat shrink? I understand that all I'm really doing is using the relay like a light switch that sends direct power from the battery to the pump, do I need to use any fuses at all? It seems like people are getting this job done a few different ways. Would it change anything say running a 60A relay and larger gauge wiring? Am I right that using too small wiring/relay could burn them out but is there any advantage or disadvantage for going too big? I'll check the FPR vacuum hoses as well.

Moving forwards, would it make the most sense to replace the fuel filer and install an upgrade pump with the appropriate relay first? If that doesn't improve the mixtures, then throw the car on the dyno and check my wideband against the sniffer they put up the cars butt? I'm going to do the injectors/pump & relay/turbo anyway, so I don't mind doing the pump now if that might solve my AFR problem.

Hi all, I've just started learning a bit about tuning, I'm half way through reading Engine Management: Advanced Tuning by Greg Banish which I'm enjoying so far. I've got an R33gtst with very basic performance mods. Haltech pro plug in, 3" turbo back exhaust and a turn flow front mount. Engine-wise everything else is stock (engine, turbo, injectors etc). I've just installed a wideband, air temp sensor and oil temp sensor which are happily chatting with the Haltech. I did my first data logging run today and I found the results both terrifying and confusing. Is anyone able to help me interpret my data log? The thing that has me confused is, why at 6000rpm and 11psi is the car at 100% injector duty cycle and 15 AFR? My first thought is there is issues with the fuel pump, possibly it's old and struggling and when the car was previously tuned, they tuned around the issue by having the injectors stay open for longer to compensate for dropping fuel pressure. But this is me guessing, I really have no idea lol. The other thing that has me worried is, shouldn't I have encountered some form of engine failure by this stage? I've been driving this thing for years, done multiple track days, drift events and 15 AFR with pegged injectors on WOT seems very dangerous to me. I've attached a screen shot of the data log. If anyone wants to look at the full log of 200 or so channels feel free to PM me and I can send it to you. Cheers

I can talk from experience as well, my R33 is my daily and is drifted quite regularly. My story will be similar to those above. I only have suspension, steering, interior and cooling mods really. Main things of note are oil cooler/power steering cooler/radiator & intercooler upgrade on a stock motor & turbo - my temperatures are never an issue, oil temps typically don't crack 110 degrees. I don't limiter bash, I don't clutch kick (well very very rarely), I rarely hand brake entry - 90% of my entries are with a little feint and weight transfer on the brakes. I'd say I'm pretty gentle on the car overall and the only part I have had to replace in the past 2 years are the HICAS arms. I went through a set of new genuine arms in no time at all so I've replaced them with a proper HICAS delete kit, hopefully problem solved. If you want to drift your daily and your a learner, or want to abuse the car... hmmm I'd probably buy a cheap 2nd car and drift that

I agree with the do track days/skid pan days on your own. You say you're prepared to spend $1,000 on the driver training, that is at least 6 track days. I would be amazed if 1 driver training day taught you more then 6 track days.