Murray_Calavera

How much are you prepared to spend? You could buy an aftermarket ecu and grab a dash, a Haltech ic7 would work perfectly. A couple of the stock displays show values only, check out the YouTube video around 3:20 to see what I mean

This might be relevant to your interests... https://www.powertunedigital.com/ Not sure if you could do something better for the money.

Because they don't run air flow meters?

Hi mate, my classic car recommendation would be a Citroen 2CV or a Citroen DS if you want something more modern.

I thought you said you sent your head off? With your bottom end, how much of the work will you be doing yourself?

This might be a silly question but isn't this a problem for your tuner? Surely the onus is on him to sort out the engine that he damaged?

What are the condition of the rims?

Welcome mate, I hope you learn lots here and get your hands on a Skyline sometime soon

Brake pads, no. Plenty of brake mods do require engineering however if all you are doing is swapping the factory pads with an aftermarket equivalent (same size, similar compound, similar performance etc), then no it doesn't need engineering. Fuel injectors, yes for a few reasons. Changes to the injectors with a non-standard item (either larger or smaller injectors) will have an impact on the vehicles emissions. Also, to run larger injectors you'll need an aftermarket ECU which will need to be engineered. This is all based on NSW, I'm not sure where you are and it might vary. Source: Vehicle standards information PUBLISHED 8 NOVEMBER 2013 | REV. 3 Supersedes VSI No. 6 | Rev. 2.1 | 1 November 2007 6 Light vehicle modifications Modification to engines and/or exhausts that impacts* the emissions levels applicable to those ADRs specified for the vehicle. * ’impacts’ means an increase in emissions levels specified in the ADRs. Examples requiring certification: • Fitting non-original valve train components. • Fitting non-original or non equivalent carburettors or fuel injection equipment. • Removal of bypass or emission control equipment including exhaust gas recirculation (EGR), positive crankcase ventilation (PCV), catalytic convertors, engine management sensors. • Fitting non-original or non-equivalent air intake manifolds. • Replacing original engine control unit. ****And typical spiel about this not being advice, speak to an Engineer etc.****

Hi all, So I've discovered my block has a bunch of tiny cracks that are invisible to the naked eye (well, invisible my non-machinist untrained eye). There are cracks around the water jackets/head bolt holes where the yellow paint is. How common are these cracks and what are peoples thoughts on running this block as-is? I'm chasing roughly 350kw and I'll be using ARP studs, and a Nitto head gasket. I'm worried I'm going to get stuck in a never ending cycle of getting another used block only to find it has the exact same cracks.

Have driven some decent skylines. Have driven some decent evos. I own a skyline. I don't own an evo. Dollar for dollar, I wouldn't be surprised if the evo was quicker. But I find the skyline a lot more fun and rewarding.

Sign me up, hopefully there's no issues with road closures.

Could you describe what its doing when you say it's running rough?

Welcome! The R34 looks very tidy Your list looks pretty good. You could add, flush the brake fluid and inspect the pads/rotors (measure rotor thickness), inspect all your suspension bushes/rod ends.

I'd be surprised if you could get T2's for the front, might be able to get them for the back though. If you want better advice, we'll need to know what you use the car for

You seem to be scared of undoing those 4 bolts. You also seem to have hit a road block. My advice would be, remove the bolts. You might find it helps. If it doesn't, you'll be surprised that you can do them back up. Don't be scared to have a go and try things. If your paranoid, take lots of photos and put the parts/bolts into resealable plastic bags and label them.

You say you've unbolted everything but in the picture there are still many bolts? Go forth and remove bolts, this should be a very simple job.

Seeing as your going rebuild at this stage and posted earlier that you're trying to do it on the cheap, just remember the 'rebuild kit' is only a small part of your upcoming expenses. I'd get these things quoted up before you start - * Engine cleaning * Crack testing, block, rods, pistons (seeing as you plan to reuse these) * Bore/hone, with torque plate if you prefer * Re-surfacing the block * Any crank work required, grind/linish * Balancing * Servicing the head I wouldn't be surprised if you dropped $2,000 at the machine shop. Also be prepared to replace parts that you didn't expect to replace. Old hoses, snapped bolts, various other worn connectors etc. You get the idea. It all adds up, I wouldn't be surprised if the whole job ran you $5,000 with you doing all the labour you can, pulling the motor, stripping it, assembly and installation. I'm guessing you have all of the tools required to build an engine, if not factor that into the overall cost of the engine build as well. In the end the hardest part of sticking to the budget might be avoiding the, 'I'll just do this one thing..." Maybe you want to put a set of studs in it or maybe you want to use ACL bearings, or a metal head gasket... it's a slippery slope my friend lol. My 1 thing would be to put a set of rocker arm stoppers in while you're there. Good luck

Add a turbo to make use of all the extra fuel

My local Nissan dealership is actually really good, no issues with getting parts in... but it's pretty rare I end up ordering anything through there https://jp-carparts.com Getting parts from Japan has always been below cost price from the local dealership, obviously they can't sell something below cost price so any big purchase is coming from Japan and I'll wait the extra few days for the parts. I also use Kudos and Justjap, but for big purchases sometimes it's worth waiting a few extra days

Depends on how much 'common sense' you want to apply. So you can start with the easy one, it will be cheaper to buy a turbo car rather then converting yours. So that leaves it to, how much do you love your current car? My swift is on it's, 3rd engine rebuild, 7th gearbox, etc... you get the idea. It does not make financial sense to do this but I love it and won't let it go. I'm sentimental about cars, my vote is convert it - but go full mental when you do. Eg when you drop the motor in, make sure its forged. When you upgrade the brakes, throw on some 6 pot fronts and 4 pot rears. Try to avoid using any stock turbo skyline parts and go to what the turbo guys are upgrading to and skip the middle step.

I'm not prepared to give up on the anti lag dream. Also, I tune my car myself and it's something I want to learn to setup. I'm not saying I'm going to hit the anti lag at every set of lights, it's going to be used sparingly with common sense in mind.

Hi all, I did a bit of googling and couldn't find anything about when it makes sense to update the exhaust valves to Inconel? My engine build is quickly getting out of hand with all of the, 'while I'm at it I'll also do...' I'm thinking of putting in a set of Supertech valves because I'd like the option of running anti-lag and want it to be as safe as possible. I'm thinking those valves will do a better job of handling the higher exhaust temps. I'm already doing new springs, cams, lifters, all service items - should I add new valves to the list as well? They aren't cheap at around $1,200, so I want to be confident it's money well spent. Cheers.

jp-carparts.com

What spring are you planning to swap to and what max boost are you chasing?