Murray_Calavera

You could make that power with an unopened motor. If all you are doing is adding forged pistons and rods, then there's no point in revving it higher then stock. I don't know if you've looked into how much it costs to convert to solid lifters, it's not a simple job and I'm sure the cost would terrify you. You'd be better of selling your motor and buying a NEO long motor. Why do you want solid lifters and upgraded valves for a 400hp motor?

Needs more NOS.

Yeah ok, you'll be fine on the front. They all use the same 14mm rod end. On the rear, you'd be better of to delete the HICAS with a proper eliminator kit (not a lock out bar) and problem solved. If you really really want to keep the shitty HICAS system, yes it will fit. Try and get used to searching for this info, I'm sure it won't be the last time you are wondering if something fits.

Maybe. You have a series 1. The "95-98" is series 2. Many parts fit both, some don't. What parts do you need?

The glovebox is for storing all the Haltech expansion boxes you collect over time.

Could still be as simple as an oxygen sensor or boost leak. Also, you could pay $80-$150 and throw it on a dyno to check your AFRs. You might find the fuel smell is actually a fuel leak somewhere and the feeling sluggish, is just your butt-dyno isn't properly calibrated lol

Hey mate, What ECU does your car have? If it's a stock ECU, what do you think someone is actually doing when you say 'check the tune'? As for checking your timing, do you mean throwing a timing light on it and checking the base timing is correct? Virtually anyone should be able to do that for you. What things have you done so far to try and fix the running rich issue?

A few things, it's really hard to use KM per 'tank' as a measure of economy. No one runs the tank to completely empty then fills up again so the number is subjective. Please give us the L per 100 KM figure. You mention you got your car tuned for a better AFR, what ECU and mods do you have? Have you fixed the misfire? What do you mean your fuel gauge fluctuates?

The neat solution to extending it would be to de-pin both connectors, then re-wire them with the correct length wires. Other then being neater, surely a set of pins and some wire is cheaper then another $270.

With the very limited information provided, I don't think anyone will find any cons with the S14

Very nice, keen to see some photos when it comes in.

If your thinking you'll bore it out to increase capacity, the increase you'll get by going one size (86.5mm) or two sizes over (87mm) is negligible. If you want increased capacity from a larger bore, you're looking at getting the block sleeved and even then I wouldn't say that's money well spent. As for how far a 25 neo can be bored, it's answered above. Safely 1 mm over. What pistons fit that bore? 87mm pistons. If your building a motor, typically you don't want to bore the motor out unless you have to. If the cylinders are good to go with only a hone, then that's ideal. Leave more meat on the block for the next time it gets pulled down and machined. In the end, I'd say be guided by your engine builder / machinist, I'm guessing your not building this thing yourself?

If it makes you feel better, I've never had a turbo fail from no BOV. Skyline is about 4 years, the swift is about 10 years. No issues to report. What ECU is your car running?

Why not get AN to barb fittings which will work with the stock hoses?

This is my opinion simplified - the turbo is the most important/best value upgrade on your car. It is always worth buying the best turbo you can afford. If you ever need a reminder of how important the turbo is, go drive a non-turbo skyline. There is only one caveat that I have for this, and that is if the turbo is a consumable on your car due to anti-lag etc. Then run what you can afford to regularly replace.

This may sound strange but bolts function a lot like a spring. When you stretch them beyond their elastic point (to yield) they no longer function like a spring (if you can picture pulling a spring so it's completely straight, it won't coil back up to being the spring that it once was). So if you can imagine the bolts all trying to pull down on the head, once they have been stretched too far, they no longer pull down on the head as hard as they should. As Ben said, you may have sealing issues as the head wont be held on as tight as it should be. It's a tough call if your budget is tight, you might get away with re-using them. You wouldn't be the first person to reuse their head bolts, but if the head gasket blows, can you afford to do this job a second time?

I know it's not my motor but I wouldn't reuse factory head bolts. I wouldn't reuse any bolt that has been torqued to yield.

I'm pretty sure my car picks up 50kw after an oil change

Hey mate, My first thoughts are, if I want cooler oil, I'd install an oil cooler. Preferably with a thermostat unless the vehicle is track only. I don't know how comfortable I'd be extending down to pick up extra capacity, I'd rather go wider. Less chance of bottoming out on something and ripping the sump open. And finally, if there are oil surge issues from oil running away from the pick up, adding an extra liter of oil probably isn't going to help a great deal. You really want gates/baffles/one-way trap doors around the pick up that keeps oil there during hard cornering. Have a look at this as an example of what I'm talking about https://justjap.com/engine/oil-control/sumps-baffle-kits/tomei-sump-baffle-kit-nissan-rb26.html I think your money could be better spent elsewhere. I'd recommend oil temp / oil pressure sensors/gauges, that way you can see if you even have an issue with oil temps or oil surge. But having said all this, if your car never sees the track you probably don't need any of this.

So I went on a little AC replacement adventure lately and learnt that the R33 GTS series 1 components are different to the series 2 which is different to the GTR.... I know this is R33, but I'm guessing you'll have similar issues. Seems that Nissan thought it would be funny to change the fitting sizes between the versions of each car for apparently no reason. My advice would be, if you are going to replace your compressor, think strongly about replacing the entire AC system with a later model components which you might find easier to source. You might even be able to get an entire AC system second hand for a good price. I really struggled to replace all of the R33 series 1 components, however if I replaced everything for series 2, it would have been really really easy. If you are committed to replacing the R32 gtst compressor, you might find sourcing it from Japan to be the best best. https://jp-carparts.com/ That's who I ended up using to get my hard to find parts and cost about 1/3 the price of buying them through Nissan locally. Good luck

Might be worth looking around to see what a 2nd hand motor is going for.

If you have a quality delete kit, it will be much stronger then the Nissan rod ends. I destroyed a brand new set of Nissan rod ends in less then a year, granted my car does get tracked/drifted. I haven't had any issues since putting in the delete kit.

Welcome to the skyline family, would be good to see some pictures of the GTR

Yeah I know, things have escalated quickly lol. I just figured this option was worth mentioning when he said he wanted a setup similar to the R34 GTR unit, so I thought he was looking for a really neat and clean setup.

What do you mean if it stops the dash working? It wont affect your stock dash at all.