Murray_Calavera

If you need to pull the motor, you can attach the chain to that point and the similar point on the opposite side of the block. Then yoink out the motor with the crane. Hopefully you never need to do this. Also not sure if this is their official use but it works well.

While we are at it, why don't we just stop tuning ignition maps? Set the whole thing to 40 degrees and let the knock control sort it out!

I'm curious, have you put a car on the dyno, induced detonation and then watched the engine protection/knock control kick in? I can't imagine why anyone would happily fill a car with 91 after it's tuned to run on 98. How long do you setup your delay before you start reintroducing timing? What is the maximum amount of timing that your knock control can pull? Can that even eliminate detonation on 91 from the 98 tune? At what rate do you increase timing after the delay event? There is no way in hell I'd take an engine that is tuned on 98 and is knock limited, then put 91 in it and say, 'she'll be right. I have knock sensors, knock control and hell, I even have a plex knock monitor!'. No chance. Mate, sends shivers down my spine even thinking about it.

Probably goes without saying, but a lot of the internet big horsepower cars have their motors pulled down about once a year. Maybe something needs replacing, maybe it doesn't. So yeah they say they are reliable etc, however I'm not sure if you are prepared to put 'pull down engine' as part of your routine maintenance. As for your dodgy fuel injector worries, what ECU are you running? If you have a modern ECU, you will have engine protection that will cover it indirectly. A dodgy injector will show up when looking at AFR or exhaust gas temps. These 'safety mechanisms' you mentioned, I hope that isn't a gauge that you plan to 'monitor' while driving the car. Your ECU should be monitoring fuel pressure and oil pressure. If oil pressure drops from where it should be, I'd be setting my engine protection to be shutting the engine off, not 'backing off' whatever that means.

Looks like the part number for main bearings If you want big end bearings have a look at these -> 6B2630H

Just wondering, why do you want to spend about $1,000 on a tune when the ECU is going to be replaced? Wouldn't you just put that money towards the new ECU? I am curious, I can't even find your ecu when googling, is it a 'Link' brand ECU, and the model of ECU is 'GTS'?

Mine did this, had a dead fan and gas was a bit lower then where it should be. Also, in the end my compressor died and released black death through the whole ac system. My suspicion is, using the air con without a working fan (over the many years I did this) caused the gas temps to be higher then they should which the compressor didn't like. In the end I replaced the entire ac system - if you have to do this, swap it all with late model parts which are readily available here. I ended up keeping all my ac S1 r33 which was a nightmare.

Fair enough, can't say I'd ever recommend blindly using someone else's tune but your call. Where did this existing map come from? You might struggle to find someone else with a wolf V4, pretty old and unpopular ecu these days. If you want a second set of eyes to look over your map, I'm happy to look at it and see if any red flags pop up. Do you have a wideband O2 sensor?

The 'start up map' is your base map. What are you looking to achieve by getting someone else's tuned map? Surely your not planning to run your car on someone else's tune?

What ECU? If it's aftermarket, it could have a hard rev limit at 8.5k and a soft cut at 7k. With that setup yes it would 'misfire' from 7k but that would be working as intended. As a side note, that's also how I have my rev limit setup, I have quite a large range of soft cut where the ECU continues to slowly cut spark to more and more cylinders if I leave my foot in it til it hits the hard cut when all cylinders would then have all spark cut.

I feel like this is fraught with danger. Unless the person helping is 100% a mate and doing it at no cost, there is going to be drama come payment time. This is one of those jobs that tend to blow out massively. At least if a workshop has the car that deals with skylines on a regular basis, they may have the random bits and pieces that have gone missing while being pulled apart. If they are doing it at home, who knows how often they'll be hitting up wreckers/Nissan for parts along the way and wasting a tonne of time. Oh and for next time, sandwich bags, a sharpie and your smartphone taking a million photos goes a long way come reassembly time.

Haven't seen someone build a 25/30 and wish they built a 25 lol

Hey mate, Sounds like time to take the car to a workshop. Fingers crossed you haven't lost anything along the way.

Hey mate, welcome. Have you done much with your S15?

I'm guessing here but it sounds like your local mechanic only works on stock cars doing routine service work and minor repairs? It's time to start approaching performance workshops, any workshop that is doing engine swaps, engine builds, custom turbo setups and dyno tuning all in house will be able to breeze through this job. I hope you are prepared to pay a fair whack of $ to have this done as the big name performance shops aren't cheap. If you are trying to cheap out on this job, I'd say do it yourself and take your time. Try and bribe your mates with beer to get them to help out as well lol

Hey mate, I can immediately think of a dozen workshops that would do this job. How many workshops have you approached and what issues have you been having?

Hey mate, if you do a sneaky google search for the R33 service manual, you'll find all the torque specs there. You only need the common, R33 engine service manual, it's a very easy find.

The ignition map has the pressure axis cut off, however I assume its the same scale as the fuel map. The short version is, none of these numbers make sense to me. Have a look around in your ECU settings and see if this is an injection time or VE based map. Either way, the numbers don't make sense for either tuning method. That only really leaves lambda correction tuning method, however the numbers aren't even remotely close to resembling that tuning method. If it is the case that you plug in an actual rev limit and the car fires and somehow runs, please DO NOT drive this car at all in this state of tune. If I'm reading that timing map correctly, for example 35 degrees advanced at 150kpa and 7000rpm, that is total madness to have as a base map. I'm just speaking for your engine that has no voice, please don't try and tune this car at this point in time. If looking at these fuel and ignition maps didn't throw up massive red flags, I don't think you're current experience is at a level to be road tuning a car. Also you need that wideband sensor before you can really do anything. There are a lot of options out there now to start getting your head around tuning. If you get your car setup and want to learn to tune, I'm happy to point you in the right direction and I'm sure others would be happy to share their story about how they learnt to tune.

The car gets a sniffer up the butt when it goes on the dyno lol So the car will be tuned with the wideband sensor inserted up the exhaust, all fuel and timing tables sorted etc. Full tune happy days. You drive out of the tuners workshop, and provided everything stays the same the tune stays perfect. Driving in the real world is different to being on the dyno, I wouldn't consider a car completely tuned until it has had a road tune as well - however the average bear is probably happy enough with a dyno only tune. Also the average bear is probably happy not having engine protection setup. There are a lot of other reasons to run a wideband sensor but I'll cut my rant short here.

Unfortunately at this stage, I think this little project is a no-go. While technically you could do this without a wideband sensor, I consider it mandatory and it's not something I would attempt without it. Also you will need a laptop to be able to make changes to the tune as you drive around (drive, log, review the data, adjust, rinse-repeat) When I say VE I mean, Volumetric Efficiency. It should be one of the tuning options in your ECU software. I'm curious, how did you hook up your ECU and play around without a laptop?

yeah ok, lets just tick off a few things to see if this is doable - Do you have a wideband sensor and are able to log data to a laptop? Can you post a picture of your base timing map? (if you know what safe timing looks like and your base map is ok, feel free to skip this) How comfortable are you doing this? I'm guessing your tuning will be done in VE, do you understand what your changing when you change the numbers in the map? Also feel free to post up your fuel map, we might be able to give you suggested numbers that get you half way there.

Hey mate, With the base tunes that have been supplied, what issues are you having? I don't have any base maps for that ecu but getting a car running (not tuned) shouldn't take much time at all. I'm guessing you aren't intending to tune it yourself as you mention you want to get it to a tuner. Are you just trying to get it to a state that you can drive it on to a trailer?

Not sure if this is an option; 1. drop in a good wrecker motor. get yourself up and running again. 2. build the original motor in spare time. 3. sell wrecker motor, hopefully reclaim most of the original money invested. 4. drop in forged motor. Pretty shitty run of luck you've had lately, hopefully things pick up for you and the bike it found in one piece.

Your questions are something that you can measure yourself. Piston to valve clearance can be measured and the compression ratio can also be calculated after you guessed it, taking the correct measurements. After going through this nightmare of a failed ringland and spun bearing, do you really want to use another cast piston and risk another ringland failure? I'd strongly consider picking up some forged pistons, they really aren't that expensive in the grand scheme of things.

Have you taken it down the 1/4 mile? I would be very keen to see the trap speed