Murray_Calavera

If there are zero other issues, I wouldn't change it.

Plynx, do you have a catch can hidden under there? Looks super sexy. I need to sort out my catch can setup

ooo details on the oil catch can/intake cover please

I never said anything bad about Plastigauge. I'd like to for example, check the bores for size, roundness and taper. I can't see me doing that with anything other then a bore gauge. Decent bore gauges go for around $600ish? Then I'll need a set of mic's, so another $400ish? It's starting to add up real quick. Say I want to use a rod bolt stretch gauge, that's another $350ish? I'd call these tools specialist tools, along with ring cutters, angle gauges, magnetic deck bridge, magnetic base dial gauge etc etc. Some of these are quite affordable but it all adds up. Maybe they aren't 'specialist tools' but that's the sort of thing I'm referring to. Hopefully you can see where I'm coming from and tool hire would make a lot more sense for me in this position. I guess I'll keep sniffing around for a hire shop, if not I'll make do with what I have.

I did a bit of googling and couldn't find any place in Sydney that hire out specialist engine building tools. If someone knows of a company that does that I'd be keen.

Looking forward to seeing the cage in the car

Hi all, I was wondering what peoples experience is with the mechanic checking the machine shop's work after sending the engine off for machining? After chatting with a few machine shops, seems it's pretty common practice that the engine is assembled by the mechanic without any of the clearances or other work performed being checked? I'm in the process of putting my rb25 together and I'm wondering if I just trust the machine shop, or do I drop something like $2,000 in bore gauges/mics/etc and check everything myself. Note I'm not a mechanic so these specialist tools will spend a lot of time gathering dust

Slap has invented the world's first mechanical air fuel ratio gauge. Think of the cost savings, never having to replace another sensor again

Google closed loop and open loop control systems. Get on YouTube if you still can't work out what an open/closed loop control system is. It is very clear you do not understand what each term means. Regarding your 'load map', there are high load areas on the fuel and timing maps, I've never seen a separate map specifically for when the engine is on high load. I hope such a thing doesn't exist because it would be a pain to tune, constantly swapping between multiple maps. While your googling, Google fuel map and have a look on the images, you'll see the maps cover the entire rpm and load range the engine operates in. I was serious about the English as a second language question, do you speak another language?

Slap, is English your second language? What your saying doesn't make any sense...

Ok, I'll bite. What are these 'load maps' you speak of? I've heard of fuel maps, timing maps, but not 'load maps' - please enlighten me.

You can still buy the old dinosaur DW injectors brand new new. When I say they are old, I mean old design. As in, they are side feed injectors that are essentially milled stock injectors. Modern injectors are a much better design. On the plus side, your mixtures don't look bad on those runs. If your car is making 300hp, I can't believe your spark plug gap even came up in discussion. I would bet there are many people running around on factory spec plugs without any issues at all at that power level. Please post back with results after you have replaced your coils.

FPR is a fuel pressure regulator. I just quickly re-read your posts again, you mentioned that your AFR is around 14-15 on 'load'. Originally I interpreted that as light cruise, is that what you meant or is it 14-15 AFR on full boost? Re your injectors, yes you have terrible injectors by today's standards, if your not running E85, that explains your idle mixtures. Have you fitted the new coil packs yet? If it is the case that your mixtures are extremely lean, (14-15 AFR on 'load'), you are approaching the realm of lean misfires. While I wouldn't expect a lean misfire at 15 AFR, a mixture of 16 AFR wouldn't surprise me that it was backfiring/misfiring. I think the primary concern at this stage is the state of tune, til that's answered it's hard to know where the real problem is. You asked should you be driving this car? Well if it's running that lean I wouldn't drive it. Also, what are the odds you'd be able to upload your ECU's map? Would only take me about 20 seconds to tell you if the tune is so bad that it's a tune issue rather then a coil issue.

He might not be able to get a nice idle at 14.7 if he is using large old school injectors. Cruising around at 14.7 would be easier to tune as the injectors are out of the low slope range. Eric, what injectors are you running?

Once you have swapped your bonnet and BOV to stock and have the car inspected, please reply to this thread and let us know how that went!

I agree. After you break something, the replacement cost could have been used to buy a modern ECU. Do it once, do it right?

I'm in a similar boat as you, I spoke with Supertech recently and they advised that around that power level their 4032 forged pistons would need about 4 and a half thou of clearance. I'm still looking into other options... I was hoping to run less clearance if I was going to be using 4032 pistons

Nice, makes me wish I had a back seat again lol

Mine is at, 4500rpm or 75% tps with 4 second reactivation time I'm also curious what others are running and why they chose those settings.

Ah ok I didn't think about the rear seat.

I thought that's what you wanted though? a bolt in cage with a removable diagonal to keep it stealthy. AGI have that setup and have the option for harness eyebolts as well.

You beat me to it. What I am trying to say is, there is a reason the recommended angle here is between 0 and 10 degrees. I have also personally seen cars fail scrutineering with harnesses mounted to the rear seatbelt mounts at a drift event. Do what you like, it's your car and spine. I was just trying to show you an option that may let you have your cake and eat it too.

It's a matter for yourself mate, it's your spine. This is from CAMS: Schedule I – Safety Harnesses and Window Nets SAFETY HARNESS MOUNTINGS (a) A safety harness shall be securely mounted on at least two points (Type D), three points (Types B and C) or five points (Type A) in compliance with the prescriptions of Drawings I-1, I-2 and I-3. If the two shoulder straps (Types B and C) join prior to a common mounting point then that junction shall be at least 150mm behind the wearer’s neck. Under no circumstances shall a safety harness mounting bolt be used to affix a safety cage to the bodyshell. (b) A safety harness shall be installed in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions with consideration to the requirements when using a Frontal Head Restraint and application of the following: (i) The shoulder straps shall be directed to the rear and installed in such a way that they do not make an angle greater than 45° to the horizontal from the occupant’s shoulder where a frontal head restraint is not used. It is highly recommended that this angle should not exceed 10° (refer drawing I-1). (ii) The maximum angles in relation to the centre-line of the seat are 20° divergent or convergent (refer drawing I-2). The shoulder straps may be installed crosswise symmetrically about the centre-line of the front seat mounting points for a safety harness.

I got about 3 years out of my daily and track RB25 with that setup (factory everything + oil cooler) before I spun a bearing. Your millage my vary. No you can't fit a head drain with the motor in. Have a read of the oil control thread, it should answer all your questions.

Just a heads up, using the factory rear seatbelt mounts for your harness is quite dangerous due to the angle of the harness. Ideally the harness would go straight back or down by no more then roughly 20 degrees. If you can picture having a head on accident, having the harness slope down at such a high angle, the harness will pull down on your shoulders and compress your spine. You might not care crushing your spine but some scrutineers do and won't let you race with it. If you can still change your cage, you might want to look at this AGI cage, it has the removable diagonal that you want and can mount a harness to it at the correct angle http://www.agi-precision.com.au/product/a-nissan-skyline-r34-2-door-half-cage-4-point-bolt-in/ I've attached a picture to show the angle thing I'm talking about