Murray_Calavera

I'm not having any luck finding the kit on Kudos Motorsports, other sites I'm checking the kits seem inconsistent with what they supply and prices are $30-$100. Also I'm not sure what the plug going to the fuel cap is exactly? Is this as simple as going to Jaycar, picking up a 30A horn relay for $6, grabbing some 4mm wire and crimps/heat shrink? I understand that all I'm really doing is using the relay like a light switch that sends direct power from the battery to the pump, do I need to use any fuses at all? It seems like people are getting this job done a few different ways. Would it change anything say running a 60A relay and larger gauge wiring? Am I right that using too small wiring/relay could burn them out but is there any advantage or disadvantage for going too big? I'll check the FPR vacuum hoses as well.

Moving forwards, would it make the most sense to replace the fuel filer and install an upgrade pump with the appropriate relay first? If that doesn't improve the mixtures, then throw the car on the dyno and check my wideband against the sniffer they put up the cars butt? I'm going to do the injectors/pump & relay/turbo anyway, so I don't mind doing the pump now if that might solve my AFR problem.

Hi all, I've just started learning a bit about tuning, I'm half way through reading Engine Management: Advanced Tuning by Greg Banish which I'm enjoying so far. I've got an R33gtst with very basic performance mods. Haltech pro plug in, 3" turbo back exhaust and a turn flow front mount. Engine-wise everything else is stock (engine, turbo, injectors etc). I've just installed a wideband, air temp sensor and oil temp sensor which are happily chatting with the Haltech. I did my first data logging run today and I found the results both terrifying and confusing. Is anyone able to help me interpret my data log? The thing that has me confused is, why at 6000rpm and 11psi is the car at 100% injector duty cycle and 15 AFR? My first thought is there is issues with the fuel pump, possibly it's old and struggling and when the car was previously tuned, they tuned around the issue by having the injectors stay open for longer to compensate for dropping fuel pressure. But this is me guessing, I really have no idea lol. The other thing that has me worried is, shouldn't I have encountered some form of engine failure by this stage? I've been driving this thing for years, done multiple track days, drift events and 15 AFR with pegged injectors on WOT seems very dangerous to me. I've attached a screen shot of the data log. If anyone wants to look at the full log of 200 or so channels feel free to PM me and I can send it to you. Cheers

I can talk from experience as well, my R33 is my daily and is drifted quite regularly. My story will be similar to those above. I only have suspension, steering, interior and cooling mods really. Main things of note are oil cooler/power steering cooler/radiator & intercooler upgrade on a stock motor & turbo - my temperatures are never an issue, oil temps typically don't crack 110 degrees. I don't limiter bash, I don't clutch kick (well very very rarely), I rarely hand brake entry - 90% of my entries are with a little feint and weight transfer on the brakes. I'd say I'm pretty gentle on the car overall and the only part I have had to replace in the past 2 years are the HICAS arms. I went through a set of new genuine arms in no time at all so I've replaced them with a proper HICAS delete kit, hopefully problem solved. If you want to drift your daily and your a learner, or want to abuse the car... hmmm I'd probably buy a cheap 2nd car and drift that

I agree with the do track days/skid pan days on your own. You say you're prepared to spend $1,000 on the driver training, that is at least 6 track days. I would be amazed if 1 driver training day taught you more then 6 track days.

You might not like my advice but here is my 2c. From what I've read, I'm assuming you have a stock car with the only mods so far being a full exhaust. Also you state that in the future you will fit a bigger turbo. Based on this, I don't think it makes sense to tune the car at this stage. If the nistune is in the car currently, I'm assuming it already has some form of tune and can be driven as is. To avoid paying for 2 tunes, I would leave the car as is, and just save up for the following mods to be done all at once. Turbo, injectors, fuel pump, front mount and tune. (depending on the intended use of the car, I'd also fit an oil cooler and power steering cooler at the same time)

There are going to be so many suggestions lol I'll throw in my 2c Powertune in Wetherill Park or Unigroup Girraween

Sure - http://justjap.com/hpi-oil-filter-sandwich-plate-attachment-universal-4222.html

Subscribed. I want to see the 1000 hp engine running 1000cc injectors

Suppose someone has to ask this, why are you after 500 hp?

Ah well, goodbye fog lights. Feel slightly cheated by the term 'bolt on' but at least the front bar goes back on I guess.

Hey all, I was wondering if anyone had dramas fitting up a blitz return flow intercooler on a series 1 R33 gtst, specifically with the intercooler piping interfering with the blinkers/driving lights assembly? I have this front bar https://www.google.com.au/search?q=s1+r33+gtst&biw=1221&bih=798&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi15sOP04HPAhXFX5QKHSJdANYQ_AUIBigB#tbm=isch&q=s1+r33+gtst+front+bar&imgrc=x8x0dxpHkBM47M%3A I just wanted to make sure nothing crazy was happening before I fork out $700 from a wrecker for a series 2 front bar & reo. Cheers!

Car is currently in the workshop but should be ready by then. Count me in!

Do you know if petrol/e85 work any better then the heavy duty wax & grease removers/other solvents?

Hey mate, The rear housing size will be stamped on the housing, easiest way to confirm. Our cars don't tend to stay stock for long, I'd just have a look to see if any previous owners have changed things up. With regards to the high flowing, you haven't quite got the right idea of how it works. Maybe the easiest way to think about it is, when you high flow you'll have a slightly bigger turbo in the same size package. Essentially the way it works, the housing is machined out to allow a bigger CHRA to be fitted. The size of CHRA that can be fitted will be based on how much can be safely machined out of the housing. Other upgrades can be made at the same time, such as ceramic wheels to steel wheels, ball bearing core, etc 'Holding boost to redline'... it's a bit ambiguous, I'm sure the factory turbo can hold factory boost til redline, if you see what I mean. To try and answer your question though, a falling boost curve can be due to a number of reasons such as the turbo falling out of it's efficiency range. If you do a bit of reading on compressor maps and how to interpret them, this should help you answer your question on if X turbo can hold the boost you want. Downsides or things to worry about? Hmm pros: ease of fitment. Cons: you'll probably want a bigger turbo soon lol. Hope some of this helps.

Hi All, Hope this is the right place to post this. I'm looking for some advice on how to remove the adhesive used to hold the sound deadening in place (the yellowy/brown reside where the sound deadening was). So I've used dry ice to remove as much sound deadening as possible however the residue is insanely hard to get off. I want to get everything as tidy as the finished bit on you can see on the nearside wheel arch however before I give myself cancer from inhaling copious amounts of fumes from some type of industrial strength solvent, I wanted to see if anyone knows of a better way. I feel like this shouldn't be as hard as I'm finding it lol

Hey mate, there are more reasons then this but I'll list a few * tablet screen will turn off with inactivity * direct sunlight onto the tablet will make it very difficult to read * when you turn on the car, you'll have to wait for the tablet to boot up then manually open the Haltech software * you'll need to wire up some sort of power supply to the tablet as well as the USB from the ECU * mounting the tablet may prove more difficult then mounting the racepak dash, * the tablet isn't as, shall we say, 'focused' as being a gauge/display. (what I'm trying to say is the racepak dash has things like progressive shift lights etc and is solely designed as a dash / gauge cluster - therefore will inherently be better suited for this purpose) At the end of the day, it won't be super cheap buying a decent windows tablet, wiring it up, mounting it and overcoming the above short falls... If your spending all that money, why not just get the racepak dash? I'm sure others can add to my list lol

Point 3 makes sense about giving the car an actual input vs it's previously assumed ones (GTST's don't have air temp sensors). I just thought it would carry on as it was previously, using the assumed figures, if I didn't activate the correction tables. I agree about the wideband, it's very high on the priority list. My poor R33 has a few other things to fix first but I'll get it before I add any real performance mods (currently all I have is a cat-back & a bit more boost).

Umm from memory it was sitting around 45-50 degrees when idling in traffic and got down to low 40's when driving around. Does that sound right for stock turbo (10psi) and stock sidemount? I wasn't brave enough to push it hard as the tune felt terrible.

I'm using the, I guess you could call it 'standard' delphi air temp sensor. The ecu picked it up straight away as its using the factory GTR air temp sensor wiring now, I checked the main setup for inputs and there was already values there for the air temp sensor. It is a pretty liner table from 0.5 volts (120 degrees C) to 4.47 voles (17 degrees C). Do I still need to change this? I still think it's really weird that its affecting the tune though. I thought it would only affect the tune if I enabled the correction tables?

Did some more reading online, seems like people are tapping the MAF ground into the coolant sensor ground. Doesn't make sense to me needing to tap a ground into a ground but I did it anyway... Still didn't fix anything. Pulled the air temp sensor out and it's all back to normal again. I'm out of ideas.

Hi all, I've got a r33gtst with a haltech platinum plug in, today I installed an air temp sensor and it seems like the car is running rich now. I don't understand why it would affect the tune when both timing and fuel correction is disabled for the air temp sensor. What I've done is, deleted the MAF, wired up the MAF signal and signal ground to the air temp sensor and re-pined the MAF signal to the air temp sensor signal on the ECU connector. The air temp sensor seems to be working perfectly. Unfortunately I don't have a wideband so can't say for sure that it's running rich, but there are flat-spots everywhere now and the popping and crackling on decel are a bit louder now so my guess is its running rich. The car is tuned on VE and I had deleted the MAF ages ago so I know that's not the issue. If anyone could shed some light on this it would be much appreciated!

I'm trying to read between the lines a bit here... So, you are worried about getting fined for driving a turbo skyline on your P's, therefore you don't want to run a sidemount intercooler because you think it will increase the chances of getting caught? If this is the case, just install the factory sidemount and cross your fingers that you don't get caught. If someone (said highway patrol officer) can spot a factory sidemount, they can spot the difference between extractors and a turbo exhaust manifold. So your screwed anyway. Might as well not take the chance on damaging your motor as well. But of course common sense says you've been waiting a fair amount of time already, might as well just wait that little bit more.

This is what I ended up going with in the end, fixed it the best I could. It's not 100% but life goes on.

Hey guys, I'm tossing up whether or not to claim on my insurance for some damage that was done to my car when someone hit it and then didn't leave their details. It's a new Subaru Impreza, I'm pretty sure the excess is about $600. I haven't got any quotes yet but I expect it would cost about $1500 to have it repaired myself. So I'm not sure if it's worth taking a hit to the no claim bonus and having an at fault claim on my record? Also I plan to keep the car for the foreseeable future, so it kind feels redundant to have it fixed when the same thing could happen later on. I dunno, it just makes me sad that its a new car and it would be nice to get it looking immaculate again. Keen to hear peoples thoughts.