Murray_Calavera

What's the issue with it though? The JJR dump doesn't stop you from running a cat.

I don't mean the tune wont be good if you pay someone to do it, I just mean there will be things that won't be done because it's not cost effective. A good example is with the flex tune, say the car currently has a tank of e40 in it, how much additional timing do you dial in to make use of that? I imagine most tuners would be of the opinion that as long as it's safe, thats fine. They know you'll fill up on e85 when you get a chance so as long as you've got a good 98 tune and a good e85 tune, the in-between doesn't matter as you won't be spending much time there anyways. But if you enjoy the tuning process and are keen to put in the time, you can fine tune all the in-between areas and make some extra power.

We all start somewhere, if you are keen to tune it yourself I'd say go for it for sure. There are so many resources out there now and plenty of us here can help you as well. At the end of the day dyno time is expensive so unless you want to pay a small fortune, you'll have to compromise somewhere. If you tune it yourself you can take your time and set everything up as perfectly as you'd like.

I wish it was that easy, they have oil surge issues too

Do you have logs of the sessions where the engine protection kicked in?

I still haven't gotten around to sorting this yet, but I will soon. I didn't think I'd have any speed bumps other then the charge light =/ When I get around to doing this job, I'll pull the dash out, take the car for a drive and see what else breaks. I'll post up the fuel level vs voltage table that I'll build as well when its done.

Awesome, thanks mate Great teamwork in this thread!

I'm using a resistor, I'll link to the instructions below - https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0059/8332/files/Alternator_Excitor_LED_Module.pdf?2740344812066901986 I guess I'll just wire the "Blue - To Alternator Switch" to the charge light and see how I go.

Nice If you get a chance while your installing it, do you mind doing a little how-to on how to wire the battery light resistor? I don't know why I can't get my head around how to wire in the resistor where the battery light was.

Safe to assume he is talking about the transmission oil and filter. I don't know how hard to access your transmission filter is though, some of the Subaru boxes need to be stripped to be replaced =/

Try not to be intimidated working on the car, you said changing plugs is a big job - but it is quite simple really. Take your time, take photos as you go, if your still worried, bag bolts and components and label the bags (then reassemble in reverse order). A few simple things to try, you can use a mechanical fuel pressure gauge to see if your pump is supplying enough fuel pressure to the rail. Put the pressure gauge somewhere between the rail and fuel filter. You can use a spark plug in-line checker to see if your getting spark. Both tools are cheap and easy to use. If your unsure, you can youtube and see how to use them.

I would do it for sure, for the reasons above plus there is power to be had, turn the boost up to 10 psi and dial in some timing, it's a very noticeable bump in power.

I hope so. I haven't trial fitted it yet. I still haven't setup the ECU to receive the fuel level signal yet as my in tank fuel level float thing has fallen off again on my last track day. Can't wait to dig around in the fuel tank again and put it back in it's slot.

Well here we go again. I sent the wrong dash back, new dash arrived today.... With the wrong LED light. They sent a blinker indicator instead of a battery light. And unless I'm completely retarded, I can't see how it would be secured as the nut is a long way from reaching any threads.

Not that I'm aware of, this is the battery voltage. Had a look at the timing, it's all over the place too =/

Hi All, Has anyone seen a wideband sensor fail like this? The short version is, the reading is all over the place. I tried to get a log to show it the best I could. I'm doing my best to hold the throttle and RPM as steady as I can. The wideband sensor is a Haltech WB1 CAN controller and the ECU is a Pro plug in. The other fun one is, as soon as I put e85 in the car, my fuel pressure sensor started reading lower. My base pressure is 47psi, but the ECU is seeing 34psi. It still rises as you'd expect with boost, but it reads 13psi lower then expected. I've tested it with a mechanical gauge and it's a perfect 47psi. If it is a faulty wideband sensor, I thought having a CAN based controller was meant to communicate with the ECU and give me a fault code if something went wrong.

The other thing to keep in mind is, how something sounds on youtube is not necessarily how something sounds in real life. Also, what you are listening to said youtube on will have an effect on it as well... If you can't listen to it in person, I wouldn't put much value on a youtube clip.

I've been looking for a rust free R33 for a while now, I'm starting to think rust is factory fitted

Just so we are on the same page, you are going to pull out the fuel pump yourself but you are not prepared to join 2 wires?

My cluster was $407 =/ Does anyone know if the 3dracingsolutions stuff is any better?

Thanks for the feedback, I really didn't know what to expect. When you look at the photos they use on the website, it's all so perfect. Guess it's a bit of the old Big Mac photo, Big Mac reality lol Still though, I want my battery LED light

I ordered one with the battery LED option, you can see the additional $20 charge for that option on the invoice. There is no battery LED on my dash. None of the edges on the dash are straight. I don't know if my standards are too high, but I would expect where the IC7 sits to have a straight edge to sit flush with the IC7 display. It's hard to tell with the photos as the black doesn't make it easy to see. I'll get some photos taken with my IC7 mounted in it a bit later.

My dash was posted a few days after my email which they didn't reply to. It arrived yesterday. It's wrong and the quality is questionable. Time to send them another email and hopefully they will send me the dash I paid for. Wish me luck. Fingers crossed my dash was a practice one and yours is much better.

The Link vs Haltech is a tough choice, I liken it a bit to Android (Link) vs Apple (Haltech). The Link gives you a bit more value but the Haltech stuff sure is pretty and very user friendly. Will you be installing sensors and tuning the thing yourself? If so, the main benefit for me is being able to drive to Haltech and work on the car with their tech's in person. Every time I visit Haltech I'm amazed at their customer support. It almost feels a bit naughty in a way, kinda like if I bought a turbo then turned around and asked the supplier to help me install it haha. I really can't overstate how amazing their customer support is. If your just giving the car to a workshop/tuner, I suppose whatever they prefer working on or can get a better deal on may sway your opinion.

Welcome! That looks like a really clean example, nice work getting your hands on it