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Murray_Calavera

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Everything posted by Murray_Calavera

  1. Murray_Calavera
    Let's take a step back and a deep breath, keep it simple. What exactly is wrong with the car? Does it start, idle and drive well?
  2. Murray_Calavera
    It's worth mentioning, you don't know that the car has 'little knock'. If your tuner didn't have knock ears on and was relying on the stock knock sensor values, that is barely a rough estimate of whats going on. Even if you have a Plex Knock Monitor (which is probably the best knock detection system you can buy at the moment), you still can't rely on the values without verifying them by listening to what's actually going on. I would not be surprised at all if you found that you engine was knocking in the top end with it's current state of tune.
  3. Murray_Calavera
    Mate, I think it's time to find a better tuner. Where abouts do you live?
  4. Murray_Calavera
    I'm a bit confused, so the tuner checked the base timing, found that what the timing was reading and what the timing was in the ECU didn't match - and then tuned the car anyway? Do you know if the tuner used any type of knock ears during the tune?
  5. Murray_Calavera
    Did anyone even check the timing with a timing light? Are you on E85?
  6. Murray_Calavera
    PranK, does your stock seat have airbags built into it?
  7. Murray_Calavera
    I use hard race arms, from memory they gave a lot of additional neg camber adjustment. I'm confident they gave more negative camber adjustment then Cusco arms as that's what I was comparing them to before I bought them. https://www.hardracesuspension.com.au/front-upper-camber-kit~1283
  8. Murray_Calavera
    Have a look at https://www.velo.com.au/seats-3 You can pop into Motorsport Connections and have a seat in them, see what you think. A harness makes a massive difference too, not sure if you'd be keen to go down that path, I'd say bolt in half cage, harness and fixed back seat is the way to go.
  9. Murray_Calavera
    Haltech have just updated the IC7, you can feed the raw fuel level signal straight into the dash now if that's easier.
  10. Murray_Calavera
    The battery light in the dash cluster is the charge light. Have a read through the whole thread, it's been covered off already.
  11. Murray_Calavera
    I'm pretty sure it did. They are really cheap though if you have lost them and need to buy more.
  12. Murray_Calavera
    Have a read of this - Short version: an LED wont work as a charge light. You can use a resistor and not have any actual light. You can retain and hide the factory charge light. Up to you mate.
  13. Murray_Calavera
    Without telling us what your looking for no one can really make a recommendation. How about starting with how much power you want to make and what you'll be using the car for? Street/circuit/drift/drag/etc... Also if your going e85 you'll run out of injectors with only 750cc.
  14. Murray_Calavera
    If I had to do it all over again I'd K swap a NA mx5 and throw on a turbo.
  15. Murray_Calavera
    Post up the boost control table. I couldn't watch the video but it sounds like you're asking the boost controller to cycle around the idle areas of the map. Simply pull the duty cycle out of those areas of the map, it's not like your making boost at idle anyway lol.
  16. Murray_Calavera
    I'm surprised no one has mentioned this yet. The platinum pro has terrible 'knock detection' it's closer to 'random noise detection'. I'm not saying the ecu is rubbish, it just that it can't do proper knock detection. The platinum pro is a very old ecu by todays standards. If you want better knock detection, get a haltech elite ECU or better yet, by a plex knock monitor.
  17. Murray_Calavera
    So there is no issue fitting a bigger turbo and being road legal, but it's not ok to remove a flange from your dump/front pipe? Where abouts are you located anyway?
  18. Murray_Calavera
    What's the issue with it though? The JJR dump doesn't stop you from running a cat.
  19. Murray_Calavera
    I don't mean the tune wont be good if you pay someone to do it, I just mean there will be things that won't be done because it's not cost effective. A good example is with the flex tune, say the car currently has a tank of e40 in it, how much additional timing do you dial in to make use of that? I imagine most tuners would be of the opinion that as long as it's safe, thats fine. They know you'll fill up on e85 when you get a chance so as long as you've got a good 98 tune and a good e85 tune, the in-between doesn't matter as you won't be spending much time there anyways. But if you enjoy the tuning process and are keen to put in the time, you can fine tune all the in-between areas and make some extra power.
  20. Murray_Calavera
    We all start somewhere, if you are keen to tune it yourself I'd say go for it for sure. There are so many resources out there now and plenty of us here can help you as well. At the end of the day dyno time is expensive so unless you want to pay a small fortune, you'll have to compromise somewhere. If you tune it yourself you can take your time and set everything up as perfectly as you'd like.
  21. Murray_Calavera
    I wish it was that easy, they have oil surge issues too
  22. Murray_Calavera
    Do you have logs of the sessions where the engine protection kicked in?
  23. Murray_Calavera
    I still haven't gotten around to sorting this yet, but I will soon. I didn't think I'd have any speed bumps other then the charge light =/ When I get around to doing this job, I'll pull the dash out, take the car for a drive and see what else breaks. I'll post up the fuel level vs voltage table that I'll build as well when its done.
  24. Murray_Calavera
    Awesome, thanks mate Great teamwork in this thread!
  25. Murray_Calavera
    I'm using a resistor, I'll link to the instructions below - https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0059/8332/files/Alternator_Excitor_LED_Module.pdf?2740344812066901986 I guess I'll just wire the "Blue - To Alternator Switch" to the charge light and see how I go.
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