Murray_Calavera

I would also like to know what happens when you hit 4500rpm. Can you load the haltech base map and give the car a rev in neutral and let us know what happens.

Are you trying to buy a single pin? Might be easier to just buy a replacement connector?

Manufacturers quote power at the engine, we quote power at the wheels, which will always be lower due to drivetrain losses.

Love to see some photos

I wouldn't be worried about the engine, I'd be concerned for your gearbox.

A few months ago now when I was in Sydney for WTA, I visited Skyline Spares, they had RB's in stock. I'd be amazed if they have no long motors now. Have you spoken to them to confirm they don't have stock?

Isn't it going to be cheaper to just grab a complete RB25 from somewhere like Skyline Spares that has a start up warranty? By the time you've nickel and dimed yourself into oblivion and spent all this time with machine shops and turbo shops, you could have just dropped in another stock long motor? Then with your car up and running again, you can take your time to strip and build your current motor into something special.

If your a young fella on your P's, I'd say the sensible option is to upgrade other areas of the car, tyres, suspension, brakes etc.... And if your interested, start doing track days and improving as a driver. Once off your P's, its engine swap time (or turbo time, gearbox upgrade time, etc). Probably not what you wanted to hear though, sorry. Umm but to answer your question, your only option that makes sense is to add spray. Not a very sensible option, one of those if you have to ask, its probably not for you.

lol they are sexy. My imaginary car would run a big boy electric fuel pump though. Maybe 2 of something like these in tank - https://fuelab.com/91901-1000hp-in-tank-power-module-fuel-pump/p327 But knowing my luck, I'd find out fuel lab can't make pumps and I'd be pulling them out again anyway lol.

Yep a thing for sure, in this case though I've been on e85 for many years. Maybe 6 or 7 years? Can't remember, but a long time now. But yeah, looks like I'm going to have to swap out the pump for the 3rd time now, so we'll get to see what the sock looks like anyways.

It's the same age, just over a year old. I'd be surprised if it was an issue.

I installed this pump just over a year ago - https://aeroflowperformance.com/af49-1057-525lph-e85-hi-flow-fuel-pump Do we think the pump is starting to fail, or should I be looking at anything else in the fuel system? When it was originally installed, everything was fine. I checked the 98 and e85 tunes, all good. For quite a while now, maybe 8+ months I've been on 98 only and the pump has been keeping up. But now that I've put e85 in it (the tank is currently about 50% ethanol) the pump suddenly can't keep up. No idea what's changed in the past year to upset the pump.

My sad's are now super sad's

Hello my tuning friends Just wanted to bounce some thoughts around here. What would you consider a normal time for fuel pressure to catch up to boost pressure? Say your cruising at 4000 rpm at around 10% throttle, then you pin the throttle, how far behind the MAP pressure would you expect the fuel pressure to trail / how long would you expect it to take for the fuel pressure to catch up? Would you expect it to be linear, say the fuel pressure trails perfectly behind MAP by 2 psi and then when boost stabilises at the max setting, fuel pressure also stabilises? Reason I ask, very recently the fun police inside my ECU said no no to this happening (see attached picture) I've got the sad's looking at the data. Looks like my fuel pump isn't keeping up . Will have to think about long term solutions... The silver lining is, the car drives fine. If you didn't look at any data you wouldn't know anything is wrong.

But didn't you drive it before you bought it? I'm guessing it was driving fine at the time you bought it?

But when you bought the car, wasn't it making 300kw at the time? Or did I misread something previously? You can verify this with 5 seconds of your time and a laptop. I wouldn't be surprised if none of the engine protection was turned on. Even if you have no interest in learning to tune yourself, please at least plug a laptop in and see what has been setup... or hasn't been. It costs you nothing, takes almost no time and could save your motor.

Nah, it's an interference fit. Just tap it in (with a hammer, not a threaded tap). Well, it's up to you. My car makes about 350kw, it has a 100% factory engine. Stock gasket, studs, everything. I've had this setup for many years. When my car sees the track, I treat it with A LOT of mechanical sympathy. So far so good. I could talk about this for ages, but the short version is, your ECU when properly setup will go a long way in saving your motor. I've had my engine protection trigger I think about 3 or 4 times now, one of those events would have been catastrophic had I not setup my engine protection, so I can safely say my ECU has saved my motor at least once.

The Nitto oil pump is much stronger compared to factory. It also flows substantially more compared to the factory pump, the restrictors and needed in the head due to the increased flow/pressure provided from the upgraded pump. If you upgrade the oil pump, to do it properly, you would also upgrade the sump (larger capacity and baffled) and improve the oil return (breathers back to the sump, and possibly an additional oil drain from the head).

Lots of good advice in here already. I'll just add, before you feel like you 'need' to do XYZ, just remember there are plenty of 100% stock RB25's out there making 300kw living a perfectly happy life with the use case your describing.

Sorry mate, that is pretty shit. I'd almost guarantee the seller knew about these issues when the car was sold too... To give some proper advice, we'll need some more details to be able to make a proper recommendation. How much power do you want to reliably make? Will the car see track use? Will you use R comp tyres, do any drifting, or use anti lag/2step? etc?

This could be a mechanical issue, but assuming everything is correct mechanically, you could 100% have this issue from a tuning issue (or should I say lack of tuning). Fortunately it's quite a simple thing to setup. If you have a laptop and the interest in learning how to tune, I and many others here could walk you through the tuning process so that the car doesn't stall when the A/C compressor engages.

I wonder how many people have had their block crack tested, found tiny cracks between the head stud holes and water galleries that are only visible with crack testing, then went on to use the block anyway. The engine I'm slowly building, the block came back from crack testing with a couple of those cracks identified... the machinist told me those cracks were very common and not to worry about it. And if it was his block, he'd still use it. I'd feel a lot better about it if a bunch of people here have used similarly cracked blocks without issues (say up to 450kw ish without issue).

Did you map the e throttle 100% to the 50%-70% in those areas of the map or was the increase in power/torque not worth going to the effort?

I'd be keen to get more details around that.

Probably doesn't matter much saying this now, but as for resale value, couldn't you have kept all of the stock parts and then come sale time (if it ever comes) swap it back to stock. Then you can enjoy whatever parts you want to run, single turbo etc and enjoy the good resale. Win win?