Murray_Calavera

Lets take a step back, does the car currently run?

I'm glad to see another R33 being resurrected

So interestingly, the place I went to buy the Hydramat from talked me out of buying it. We spent about 30 min playing with various Hydramats, adaptors and fittings, they even called a big name performance workshop and we had a chat about options. Was quite impressed with them trying to help me rather then focusing on a sale. The short version was, they strongly advocated to try a setup with the fuel pump mounted at the very bottom of the tank first. If I still wasn't happy, they thought the money going on a Hydramet should be put towards a surge tank setup. So this is my setup based on their advice. Fuel pump mounted at the very bottom of the tank then I chose a strainer that extends forwards along the bottom of the tank. Please excuse the fabrication skills (no one can see it inside the tank lol). Also, I'm sure it's not 100% perfect however it's the best I could get it using a shitty bore scope and my limited patience. (I really wish I had a fuel tank to sacrifice buy chopping out the side so I could clearly how everything was sitting inside). If someone wanted to use a similar setup, the advice I would give them is - the angle of the fuel pump is very important, it really wants to run parallel along the bottom arm as I've indicated with the green lines. In general, the clearances are tight, however where I've circled in red was the biggest challenge I had with clearances to allow the bracket to completely slide down. The parts I used are Raceworks fuel strainer FPS-067 and Aeroflow fuel pump AF49-1057. Ignore the below. I went googling for these details and found nothing, hopefully it helps at least one person in future. R34 skyline fuel pump bracket length. R33 skyline fuel pump bracket length. R33 skyline fuel pump bracket extension.

Cars only get stolen for a few reasons generally, for example - A. Joy ride. This starts with stealing the keys, steal the car, joy ride the car, burn the stolen car. B. For use in another job. This starts with stealing the keys, steal the car, complete unrelated job, burn the stolen car. C. For export out of Australia. Cars get put on containers to certain parts of the world. You can imagine the logistics behind this. The way your R33 was pinched wasn't exactly professional and R33gtst's aren't the typical car getting targeted by professionals. D. The 'f**k I crashed my R33 and I'm not insured' person, now I need a car to rebirth or a mountain of parts to restore said crashed car. So as no one broke into your house, took your keys then took your car, I'm going with option D as the most likely.

There isn't really much point in chasing them up. If they come across it by chance they'll contact you. I hate to say this but there really isn't anything to look for anymore. You can almost guarantee that it's sitting in a garage somewhere being stripped down for parts. The parts will never be recovered, the shell will be chopped up and thrown in scrap steal recycling

Retail is $1,700 but can be found for $1,400.

Do you think the Garmin toy is worth the money? I've been looking at it for a while now but the price always makes me wince.

Sounds like time for an IC7 dash xD

100% appreciate what your saying about fitment of aftermarket parts in general. Deatschwerks marketing however make some pretty specific claims, this is copy paste from there website - https://deatschwerks.com/collections/pumps APPLICATION SPECIFIC FITMENT Application specific product development is a complex process, but DW has made it easy for YOU… all you have to do is choose your year, make, and model. DeatschWerks’ Product Development Team carefully engineers each pump application fitment to optimize pump format + flow combinations; each kit is a carefully curated assortment of electrical connectors, filters, hose, clamps, and spacers, and completed with step-by-step installation instructions. Their claims are full of shit. Even if you only grab the low hanging fruit, they say there are step-by-step instructions, well no, there isn't. Their instructions for the R33 are the instructions for the 300ZX. I don't think I'm asking too much in expecting the company selling a product not to lie to me about what the product does and what supporting documentation will accompany the product.

So of course the strainer had fallen off and I was just overthinking everything =/ Really not impressed with Deatchwerks. * Advertises the fuel pump kit to suit "93-98 Nissan Skyline R33" https://deatschwerks.com/products/9-401-1043?_pos=18&_sid=5047b1750&_ss=r - of course it doesn't fit the R33 stock bracket. Nor do their instructions mention anything to do with the R33. The kit is obviously generic and not vehicle specific. * No mention of the fact that it doesn't have an internal check valve - really enjoyed tuning my cold start with that, thanks. * Wiring on the supplied pigtail was garbage. The wire insulation melted while applying heat shrink over the open barrel splice connector I used to connect the wires. * Strainer for the fuel pump is held in with hopes and dreams only. Lasted about 2 years before falling off. They can't get any of this right but they go to the effort to remove the Bosch part number from the fuel pump housing. So I bought a 525 LPH Aeroflow so the next strainer I use has a better chance of hanging on. Fingers crossed this time.

Speaking of harnesses, are there any plans for half cage and harness?

That does make the most sense, I'll pull it out to confirm. If the sock has fallen off, it will go back in with a Hydramat setup.

I really didn't want to pull the hanger out if I didn't have to, so I haven't checked to see if the sock has fallen off. Would it be possible for the pump to be fully submerged and yet unable to supply fuel because the sock had fallen off? I can't picture why it would work with a full tank and not at half tank when in both conditions the pump is fully submerged.

Hi all, So I have an issue where the car appears to run out of fuel with half a tank left. Basically everything is perfect, then when fuel drops to about half a tank, fuel pressure rapidly drops to 0 and the car stalls. Once the tank is filled everything is 100% perfect again. This is not a fuel gauge/level sender issue, when refilling the tank to full it only took 28 litres. I had a look around inside the tank today and confirmed the fuel pump is exactly where it should be and I didn't see any other issues. My thought process now is, if the fuel pump is unable to supply fuel while being completely submerged, the fuel tank must be building a vacuum as the tank empties. Does this sound correct? I'm thinking a check valve has failed somewhere in the EVAP system that is allowing a vacuum to slowly build while the car is running. I'm thinking the next step in diagnosis is to run the car until it stalls again, then disconnect the charcoal canister at the line that connects to the fuel tank and see if that removes the vacuum. This is only a guess though so would appreciate any thoughts on this matter!

Thanks for the help everyone. I kept spraying silicon til 1.5V turned the fan over on the bench. Works perfectly in the car now. Fingers crossed the bearings don't dry out too quickly.

I'm stuck again. I can't for the life of me figure out how to pull this thing down any further to get at the bearings or brushes.

Sounds like a plan. Where should I be spraying the silicone? I'm not very familiar with electrical motors and don't know where the bearings are. Should I spray into any of the areas I've indicated?

Ah, I think I misunderstood you earlier. I bench tested the motor again putting 1.5V through it, when it didn't spin I gave it a nudge and it started spinning. When you mentioned the PCB issue, I assumed there must be an external control unit for the motor and as it still failed on the bench then I thought it wasn't a PCB issue. There might be a PCB inside, but I'm not sure how to further strip the motor down. This is only as far as I've got. I tried to gently pull the motor assembly upwards but it's pretty snuggly in there.

Thanks for doing the leg work in FAST. I'm thinking I'll just roll the $50 dice and see how I go.

Yep, its a great track. The change in elevation is really fun.

Hi all, I have an issue where my heater blower motor stopped working. I removed the blower motor (and cleaned the 30 years of filth out of it) and bench tested it by putting 12 volts through it. Worked like a champion. Tried to test it again with 1.5 volts, wouldn't turn at all. I connected it up in the car and turned the fan on. Nothing. Turned up the fan speed, nothing again regardless of the fan speed setting. However once I gave the fan a little nudge, it would spin up like a champ. All 4 fan speed settings worked once the fan was already up and running. It's just an issue of getting it to initially turn on its own. There is one other small issue though, once the fan is up and running, it makes a slight continuous tick/clicking noise in operation. So I was wondering, does anyone know if the GU Patrol heater blower motor fits the R33? Looking at photos it seems identical and they are only about $50 on ebay. Failing that, are there businesses that are able to rebuild my blower motor? I'd prefer that to picking up a second hand part and I can't find anyone that stocks new R33 blower motors.

Where did you source that little beauty?

This might be the way you can keep your .6 motor https://bulletraceengineering.com.au/shop/rb30sx/ Now it's 3.6 litre xD

There will be a heap of mechanics that have tooling to make up hard brake lines. I would bet that any workshop that specialises in older cars, say restoring old MG's, would have tooling to make up hard lines. It should be cheap and easy to get something made up for you. Having said that, I don't know anyone that has bothered to make up hard lines when there are braided lines readily available that do the same thing.

https://au.gktech.com/products/brakes/brake-lines/r32-gts-t-braided-brake-line-set Should do the trick