Murray_Calavera

I don't know if it's just me but a bunch of the photos aren't loading =/

What coil packs are you using?

All of my control arms/traction rod are stock in the rear at the moment. Does the factory setup toe out much on power?

Yep, I'm not surprised. It's good advice. Some of the really big HP drift cars run up to 10mm toe in chasing outright grip in the rear.

Do you have everything solid mounted/rose joined in the rear? My zero toe might be a lot more toe out, then your zero toe. I've still got a lot of rubber bushes to delete in the rear.

Hmm I think I really need to start running some amount of toe in. I run zero toe in the rear, because exciting, but it really doesn't help for performance lol.

I think I'm going to need a detailed breakdown of your suspension components, setup and alignment lol. I can't even put down 300kw on the street in 2nd. Say I'm cruising around 1500 rpm, then floor it in 2nd, around 5500ish rpm it will break loose. I wonder how much of that comes down to the shape of the power delivery from the journal bearing turbo. Maybe if I went with the ball bearing centre, it would have had a more gentle power delivery.... I dunno.

100% agree with this. A proper diff would be at the top of my list of priority mods.

CRS is about 50% more expensive then NS2R in identical sizes, check out the links I put up. Yeah I've been looking for sur4g for a while now, can never find any place that has them in stock. Also been looking for Valino and Zeknova tyres, again no one has stock for what I want. I would run a square setup if I could get the same size to fit the front. Can't see that ever happening without cutting up the front guards and fitting flares, but I'm really not keen to do that. Yep. I'll check out that tyre shop, see how we go with pricing.

It's a weekender + track stuff. It varies, but I'd say I do about 10,000KM a year. I'm priced out of CRS completely. I got a quote for CRS when I was picking up the NS2R... CRS in size 275/35/17.... $435 Can't get NS2R in that same size, but I paid $265 for 255/40/17 Here is a good apple / apple comparison. https://sleekaspares.com.au/product/255-40r17-nankang-ns2r-semi-slick-tyre-120-180tw/ https://sleekaspares.com.au/product/25540r17-nankang-cr-s-competition-semi-slick-200tw/ I don't know how long the CRS would last on the street, even though they are "200 tw" they are a faster tyre then the NS2R, so I would expect they would have an even shorter life expectancy. 15,000km sounds pretty good to me. The more I think about it, the more I think that's where I'd want to be for my street tyres. I think it's bothering me that the tyres won't even last the year.

Did you use these? https://au.gktech.com/solid-subframe-bushes

I've got 2 sets of wheels, both my track and street rears came up for replacement at the same time. I popped 120 treadwear NS2R on the track set and have been using them on the street. So now I'm in an awkward spot, I really like them on the street, even in the wet but that rate at which they are wearing, I'll probably only get about 7500km of street use out of them. So now I'm torn, do I just accept that wear rate or should I pop something like some RS4's on the street set, or maybe try the 180 treadwear version of the NS2R.... What wear rate are you happy to accept for street tyres?

Mako makes this - https://makomotorsport.com.au/collections/nissan/products/nissan-skyline-r34-mfd-mount-2 I bet they could make this - and this To have a baby. That would get you half of the way there.

More inspiration stuff- https://www.skylife4ever.com/2011/02/nissan-skyline-r34-mfd-display-swap.html

You could take inspiration from something like this - https://zada-tech.com/products/multi-gauges/nissan-skyline-gtr-r32-r33-r34-multi-function-gauge-display Then model it up for your Link MXS in something like Fusion 360 and get it 3D printed.

Can we see pics please

If you google R33 double DIN head unit, you'll get a million examples. Then mount the Link MXS in front of the stock cluster?

Just a random thought, is there no e85 in the UK? I was wondering why its on a meth blend rather then a flex setup.

I'm confused by your question, is this what you're asking? You want to install a double DIN head unit. You want to install a Link MXS dash, somewhere inside the car. You want to keep your stock dash cluster. Is that correct?

Looks like a good starting point. If your keen on it, best bet would be to chat with PRP and see how the peddle bracket mounts up.

You could make up a kit for yourself. As you'll be making it up yourself, the world's your oyster as to how you achieve this. I'm eventually going to run DBW on the factory manifold as well. I'm keeping my eye on this kit so I can have all the hard work done for me. https://outsidergarage.com/products/complete-rb-r32-dbw-adapter-kits

True, if you want to extract everything from the slick, the suspension needs to be setup with that in mind. However only changing the tyres and nothing else, the slicks offer another crazy step up in performance. This is a nice video showing that - Funnily enough, the video shows exactly what I said above. The step from street to R comp is the same again going from R comp to slick.

Plus their connector is sexy! Well worth paying for.

Sounds like a pretty well setup car. If you remember what it was like going from street tyres to A052, you've got about that much performance again to be gained from going from A052 to a race slick.

Sounds good. As everyone else is saying, if you haven't created a roll centre problem for yourself (by over lowering the car) then I think you are imagining a problem that isn't really there. Why do you think there is currently an issue with the cars roll centre? Back to some more practical advice, you say you want a 'precise' handling car, to achieve this you delete all the rubber bushes and hard mount/rose joint everything. Strong chance you'll then hate the car on the road so I don't recommend you do this. You'll also be creating a tonne of extra work for yourself as the rose joints are high maintenance. I'd say at this point your biggest win is going to be by putting some real tyres on the car. I'm guessing you do open track days and don't race in a class that restricts your tyre size or compound. So grab yourself a second set of wheels, the widest you can fit under your current guards and pop on a set of serious tyres such as - https://samotorsporttyres.com.au/product/hankook-ventus-z214/ or if you want to spend a bit more https://samotorsporttyres.com.au/product/hankook-ventus-f200/ And if your Mr money bags, there are plenty of other manufacturers eg Michelin, Pirelli or Yokohama, who make slicks that would love for you to make a donation to them. Your current setup on a real tyre will be much quicker round the track then whatever setup your imagining on a street tyre will ever be. Plus you get to keep your nice handling street car/street tyre combo for daily duties.