Murray_Calavera

All good mate. If your scared that you will blow your motor up tuning, probably the best comparison I can make is, people that are scared of going to the track because they think "they will put their car into the wall". Well, you never stop being the one in control of the car so yeah, don't drive beyond your limits and you won't hit the wall. Same goes for tuning. You're in control of the tuning, don't do something you don't understand. You can ask for help from us here, learn from resources online, and make changes that make sense to you. Also you'll have engine protection setup which is an amazing safety net for when you are road tuning. You'd be surprised how difficult it actually is to pop a motor tuning. I'm not trying to pressure you into tuning, what I'm really trying to say is it's very easy to learn, will save you a lot of money, you'll know what is actually in your tune (did your tuner even turn on engine protection??), you can adjust your tune based on how you are using the car (changing track conditions etc), as you make further mods you can touch up the tune as you go, and probably the most important bit, it's really fun I'll stop rambling now.

If you have a cheap laptop and are willing to learn, you could be tuning within a week or 2. I'm a very strong advocate of people learning to work on and tune their own cars. You save an absolute fortune (in your case you save about $5,200) which can be used on more parts/tyres/fuel/track day fees. I'd like to say build the car yourself, but that's easier said then done. Not everyone has a garage and tools are expensive. I get that. But when it comes to tuning, all you need is a cheap laptop. If your willing to learn, you can 100% do it. I'm happy to explain step by step how I learnt to tune. I'm sure there would be others here that know how to tune that also would gladly share their experience. I'm happy to share maps and for you to send me maps for feedback as well. Again I'm sure others here would do the same.

Would you consider learning to tune yourself? It's not a hard skill to learn.

Sounds like your paying for labour and paying a tuner?

I hope you never actually test this, but what are your thoughts on that harness bar and how it mounts, how do you think it would hold up in a big collision doing eastern creek main straight speeds? I worry because I look at how CAMS spec out their bolt in cage requirements and harness mounting requirements (eg the plate that goes through the floor for the 5/6 point harness strap etc). 100% your car and your freedom to do what you think is best... but I still worry =/

Why would you want to tune the car on e60-e70? I don't think anyone said it was bad or pointless to use a flex sensor if running pump e85 100% of the time. I would say the summary is closer to - * Yes you can run the car on pump e85 without a flex sensor * There are benefits to using a flex sensor even if you are always on pump e85. It's up to you if you think those benefits are worth the very small outlay to install the flex sensor.

If you were 100% sure that you will never ever run anything other then pump e85, then sure you could get away without running a flex sensor. Lets say the car was tuned on a tank of e80 and everything was setup perfectly on that %blend, as you drove the car and the ethanol content varied from e70 to e85 depending on what the fuel bowser was filled with at the time, you would not notice any change in how the car behaves. It would make the same power and drive exactly the same regardless of if it was currently at e70 or e85 or anything in-between. The only way you would notice anything is if you had a dash/gauge telling you that something was different, e.g. AFR is currently 11.3 however when tuned it was 11.5 under the same circumstances. These small changes will be impossible to feel in the way the car actually performs. So, should you use the flex sensor? I'd say yes, even if it was just to give you the option to use pump 98. There might be a situation in the future you haven't accounted for where you run out of e85 or it's not available for whatever reason, now at least you can still run the car happily on 98.

I'd go the 50mm gate. The 45 might do everything you want, but it would be such a pain in the arse to do all the work fitting it, only to find out its a little too small for what you want. For the small outlay at the start, I'd play it safe and just go with the 50mm gate. Side note, that's a pretty sexy build you've got in the works.

It's basically Hollywood isn't it? I mean look at this! You can see the car on the dyno, see the data from the log.... 600KPA target. More like 82KPA target and a bunch of YouTube Hollywood magic showing fake numbers and fake data, right?

Yeah I doubt these 6 second 200+mph cars are running the boost they say they are. I mean look at this guy claiming he is running 90+psi of boost and a 250 shot. Why can't they just be honest and say they are really running 12psi of boost.

How is the car going to be used? Depending on that answer, upgraded pads/rotors might be all you need.

what comp ratio do you think this thing has to run 100psi of boost?

Surprised this hasn't been mentioned, they pop out of gear if you let go of the shifter. So yeah, hand off the shifter and your back in neutral. So no, not a streetable gearbox for this reason and all the other reasons listed above.

Generally.... Side skirts and front and rear spoilers may be fitted without specific approval, provided road clearance and air flow for brake cooling are not adversely affected. Additionally, they must not be fitted so they are likely to increase the risk of bodily injury to a vulnerable road user coming into contact with the vehicle. All material is to be of a suitable thickness and be free from sharp edges or corners. Rear spoilers must be within the body shape/outline of the mounting surface, for example, the boot outline. The minimum thickness of end plates is 4mm and they must be free of sharp edges or corners. Having said that, I'm only familiar with NSW and QLD legislation/regulations, VIC might be different.

Before setting up said missile switch, have a think about a CAN keypad instead. https://linkecu.com/link-can-keypads-have-arrived/

I thought the same thing until I started adding up the cost of everything required for the setup lol

How long will it be in storage and how do you plan to store it?

Does the back seat ever get used?

Are you thinking that "2step" means huge flames / pops and bangs? 2step just means a second rev limit. So it works the same way your normal rev limiter works. If you have 2step, now you just have 2 rev limiters set at different points.

There are times you would want to cut both ignition and fuel at the same time. Have a look at what Link ECU do for the rotary only rev limiter, that cut is both fuel and ignition. A very simple explanation of this is, the fuel and ignition style cut is very gentle on the motor. No, the injectors do not only fire under load / increasing rpm. I'm not really sure what your getting at with that statement or if you had a question.

As I said before, my wastegate actuator failed and it's failed state was seized shut. Your boost controller can't control a wastegate actuator that has seized shut.

With the 17" wheel setup, what tyres and size were you running and what was needed to get them to fit? Did they rub anywhere?

Well, it's not 'the' answer but it is 'an' answer lol. It's like if your stock turbo dies, do you really spend $$ to put another stock turbo in there? Your average car dude loves a good excuse for an upgrade. I'm just saying this is a good excuse to put the MAF in the bin with a cheeky ECU upgrade. And yes, if you get an ECU it will need to be tuned.

Only one thing left to do now. Get a proper ECU and bin the MAF sensor.

No, the cat needs to come up to temperature before it works. Plugging up the exhaust with multiple cats will not help you. Just get a good quality euro 5 or 6, 400+ cell cat and you'll be fine.