Murray_Calavera

A lot of good food for thought here. I've got Nankang NS2R (120TW) on my track rims at the moment and I need to replace my street tyres soon. The RS4 look really interesting as a street tyre option but they need to perform double duty as my drift tyres too. Would there be any reason why they wouldn't be a good drift tyre? The Zestino Gredge 07R in 240TW as a street/drift tyre have also caught my attention.

Are you talking street or track? I can't picture treating a corner like a straight on the track and I can't picture a tyre lasting 10,000km on the track lol.

I wanted to get some thoughts on what the appeal is of the 200 treadwear tyres. Tyres like AD08R/AD09, Pilot Sport Cup 2, RE-71RS, etc etc There seems to be so many people in love with their preferred 200 treadwear tyre, but I don't really understand why. They seem so expensive to me when compared to either a proper R compound tyre for the track or a ultra high performance for the street (tyres like Pilot Sport 5). I don't understand why someone wouldn't buy a 2nd set of wheels, run a street legal semi slick for the track, which is cheaper then a 200 treadwear tyre while out performing it. Then run a tyre like a Pilot Sport 4/5 for the street, which are vastly cheaper, still perform adequately and will last many more KM's. The only logical reason I see to run a 200 treadwear tyre is because the class your driving in won't allow for a softer tyre to be run. I'd really love to hear from anyone that has experience driving on these tyres as well as experience with R compound tyres.

If you have room at home/garage, my vote would be to buy a long motor known to be in good condition. Put some upgraded studs and head gasket in it and drop that motor in to get you up and running again quickly. Then with the stuffed motor, pull it down and slowly rebuild it at home yourself. Plenty of resources available these days so that any motivated person would be able to learn to build a motor. Will work out cheaper then paying someone to build you a forged motor, you'll end up with a good condition spare motor and you'll develop the skills you'll need to keep the skyline running long term.

Also be good to really nail down your goals with the car. Your power target has already bumped up another 100hp over your last post lol.

My Japanese is getting pretty rusty but here is my 2c. Both messages are notifications, one is for the oil filter (オイルフィルタ) the other is for the engine oil (エンジンオイル) The messages talk about the settings for the notification interval. It asks you to push the information switch, choose the maintenance information and select settings... or something like that.

If tuned well it won't need to be forged at that power level. E85 makes that power pretty easy these days. Upgraded head studs and gasket would be good to do. Strong chances of you lifting the head otherwise.

Hard to say what your next setup will make without knowing what you'll be running. Have a look at the RB26 turbo upgrade dyno results thread for ideas about what parts you'll need to hit your goals.

Yeah ok, the most important thing then will be to find a workshop you can trust. I'm on the other side of Australia so can't make any recommendations unfortunately. As for what you have that workshop carry out, you've got a lot of options. I'll throw in my 2c Option 1 which is the cheap option. This only applies if the previous owner can supply 100% of the parts for the twin setup. Have the turbos rebuilt/high flowed by HyperGear and go back to the twin setup. Option 2. Previous owner can't supply the twin setup? Hit up some wreckers and buy a complete working twin setup. Option 3. Bin all of the single turbo parts you've been given (from what I can see, it all looks like rubbish. It's very expensive paying a workshop to try and make rubbish work, then you have to bin it all and start again anyway thus paying twice). So, this option is to start again and buy a quality single turbo setup. This will get expensive very quickly, you could easily spend $4,000 on just the turbo and manifold... All comes down to what you want to do with the car long term really.

Are you planning to get the car up and running yourself or will you be having a workshop do all of the work for you?

Ok. So along with the car you were given the complete stock twin setup and also an aftermarket manifold, turbo and gate? Are you 100% sure it is an "EC-1" turbo? I've never heard of such a creature before.

Lets take a step back, does the car currently run?

I'm glad to see another R33 being resurrected

So interestingly, the place I went to buy the Hydramat from talked me out of buying it. We spent about 30 min playing with various Hydramats, adaptors and fittings, they even called a big name performance workshop and we had a chat about options. Was quite impressed with them trying to help me rather then focusing on a sale. The short version was, they strongly advocated to try a setup with the fuel pump mounted at the very bottom of the tank first. If I still wasn't happy, they thought the money going on a Hydramet should be put towards a surge tank setup. So this is my setup based on their advice. Fuel pump mounted at the very bottom of the tank then I chose a strainer that extends forwards along the bottom of the tank. Please excuse the fabrication skills (no one can see it inside the tank lol). Also, I'm sure it's not 100% perfect however it's the best I could get it using a shitty bore scope and my limited patience. (I really wish I had a fuel tank to sacrifice buy chopping out the side so I could clearly how everything was sitting inside). If someone wanted to use a similar setup, the advice I would give them is - the angle of the fuel pump is very important, it really wants to run parallel along the bottom arm as I've indicated with the green lines. In general, the clearances are tight, however where I've circled in red was the biggest challenge I had with clearances to allow the bracket to completely slide down. The parts I used are Raceworks fuel strainer FPS-067 and Aeroflow fuel pump AF49-1057. Ignore the below. I went googling for these details and found nothing, hopefully it helps at least one person in future. R34 skyline fuel pump bracket length. R33 skyline fuel pump bracket length. R33 skyline fuel pump bracket extension.

Cars only get stolen for a few reasons generally, for example - A. Joy ride. This starts with stealing the keys, steal the car, joy ride the car, burn the stolen car. B. For use in another job. This starts with stealing the keys, steal the car, complete unrelated job, burn the stolen car. C. For export out of Australia. Cars get put on containers to certain parts of the world. You can imagine the logistics behind this. The way your R33 was pinched wasn't exactly professional and R33gtst's aren't the typical car getting targeted by professionals. D. The 'f**k I crashed my R33 and I'm not insured' person, now I need a car to rebirth or a mountain of parts to restore said crashed car. So as no one broke into your house, took your keys then took your car, I'm going with option D as the most likely.

There isn't really much point in chasing them up. If they come across it by chance they'll contact you. I hate to say this but there really isn't anything to look for anymore. You can almost guarantee that it's sitting in a garage somewhere being stripped down for parts. The parts will never be recovered, the shell will be chopped up and thrown in scrap steal recycling

Retail is $1,700 but can be found for $1,400.

Do you think the Garmin toy is worth the money? I've been looking at it for a while now but the price always makes me wince.

Sounds like time for an IC7 dash xD

100% appreciate what your saying about fitment of aftermarket parts in general. Deatschwerks marketing however make some pretty specific claims, this is copy paste from there website - https://deatschwerks.com/collections/pumps APPLICATION SPECIFIC FITMENT Application specific product development is a complex process, but DW has made it easy for YOU… all you have to do is choose your year, make, and model. DeatschWerks’ Product Development Team carefully engineers each pump application fitment to optimize pump format + flow combinations; each kit is a carefully curated assortment of electrical connectors, filters, hose, clamps, and spacers, and completed with step-by-step installation instructions. Their claims are full of shit. Even if you only grab the low hanging fruit, they say there are step-by-step instructions, well no, there isn't. Their instructions for the R33 are the instructions for the 300ZX. I don't think I'm asking too much in expecting the company selling a product not to lie to me about what the product does and what supporting documentation will accompany the product.

So of course the strainer had fallen off and I was just overthinking everything =/ Really not impressed with Deatchwerks. * Advertises the fuel pump kit to suit "93-98 Nissan Skyline R33" https://deatschwerks.com/products/9-401-1043?_pos=18&_sid=5047b1750&_ss=r - of course it doesn't fit the R33 stock bracket. Nor do their instructions mention anything to do with the R33. The kit is obviously generic and not vehicle specific. * No mention of the fact that it doesn't have an internal check valve - really enjoyed tuning my cold start with that, thanks. * Wiring on the supplied pigtail was garbage. The wire insulation melted while applying heat shrink over the open barrel splice connector I used to connect the wires. * Strainer for the fuel pump is held in with hopes and dreams only. Lasted about 2 years before falling off. They can't get any of this right but they go to the effort to remove the Bosch part number from the fuel pump housing. So I bought a 525 LPH Aeroflow so the next strainer I use has a better chance of hanging on. Fingers crossed this time.

Speaking of harnesses, are there any plans for half cage and harness?

That does make the most sense, I'll pull it out to confirm. If the sock has fallen off, it will go back in with a Hydramat setup.

I really didn't want to pull the hanger out if I didn't have to, so I haven't checked to see if the sock has fallen off. Would it be possible for the pump to be fully submerged and yet unable to supply fuel because the sock had fallen off? I can't picture why it would work with a full tank and not at half tank when in both conditions the pump is fully submerged.

Hi all, So I have an issue where the car appears to run out of fuel with half a tank left. Basically everything is perfect, then when fuel drops to about half a tank, fuel pressure rapidly drops to 0 and the car stalls. Once the tank is filled everything is 100% perfect again. This is not a fuel gauge/level sender issue, when refilling the tank to full it only took 28 litres. I had a look around inside the tank today and confirmed the fuel pump is exactly where it should be and I didn't see any other issues. My thought process now is, if the fuel pump is unable to supply fuel while being completely submerged, the fuel tank must be building a vacuum as the tank empties. Does this sound correct? I'm thinking a check valve has failed somewhere in the EVAP system that is allowing a vacuum to slowly build while the car is running. I'm thinking the next step in diagnosis is to run the car until it stalls again, then disconnect the charcoal canister at the line that connects to the fuel tank and see if that removes the vacuum. This is only a guess though so would appreciate any thoughts on this matter!