rsx84

i'll have mine on the road in the next few months, getting new exhaust, FMIC, BRIDE front seat, bolt the rb25 turbo to the rb20 get it complied and rego'd. oh and some new 17" rims "Drift Tek Racing in black" should drive it for a few months then sell it....

putting the engine in is only half the fun, its the other things that you end up needing the do to get it right, suspension, brakes, fuel, intercooler and exhaust.... then theres the things you find out later, like the brakes you need to run are to big for your current rims....

if thats all thats required then get the best bulbs you can that are legal, the problem is the reflective surface in side the head light gets "not so reflective" over time, if you can get into the head lights you can get then re-chromed?? buy a set from a wrecker and have a go...

um, what engine is in it? you mentioned the rb25 gearbox? i'm not 100% on weather aftermarket parts need a mod plated before you go for a road worthy or not?

good thing about this issue now is most coilovers brand new can be adjusted at the base, height wise, without effecting the travel of the shock itself. reading back now that write up is very hard to follow, i might re-write it so it make sense....

to be honest if i was doing this again, knowing what i know now, i would have looked for a set of aus spec GTS front struts, rotors and calipars with the rear shocks and springs as well, the shocks can be rebuilt, the ride height is 40mm lower without effecting the shock travel at all and the GTS rotors are about 280mm from memory (standard aus spec items are 256mm) and the pad face is about 25% bigger than the standard r31 items... Over the HR30 standard items i'd say your looking at a 40-50% braking increase, alot better suspension package as well if you add larger sway bars..... all up i'd say no more than $1200 including the rebuilding of the shocks and sway bars, good $$$ considering 4 years ago i bought DBA slotted rotors for the HR30 for $700, Orange Koni's front incerts for $800 and new bendix comp X pads for $150 and the front and rear whiteline swaybars for $300, money well spend NOT, they are sitting in the boot of the car now after only travelling about 100km with them in.......

ok, firstly: there are a few options, you can stick to the aus r31 front struts and have the rotor machined off leaving the hub with the 4 x 114.3 stud pattern, then the other problem is the 90mm calipar spacing with the aus strut. a bracket is required to allow the 4 pot r32 onwards calipars to be mounted. secondly: Hr31 front struts, they have the 100mm calipar spacing required for the nissan 4 pot calipars, there is a slight mod the the incert konis shock required to get them the fit, grind off part of the little knob at the bottom of the incert until it fits??, the rotors and calipars are a great improvement to the aus spec items alone, slight spacing of r32 rotors is all that is required to fit to go to an r32 calipar rotor set up, you may need to space out your brake line connection with copper washers so they fit tightly.. Budget wise these are the best 2 options..... stud pattern involves re-drilling ither the r32 rotor to the 4x 114.3 pattern or redrilling the already machined hubs to the 5 x 114.3 pattern? the other option here is finding a set of Z31 turbo hubs, standard 5 x 114.3 pattern but very very rare and $$$$..... looking at the power figure you have to date i'd go just the HR31 struts with HR31 rotors and calipars... in QLD you'd have no problem getting it engineered with those stoppers alone..... a mate just built an rb30et with a hiflow VL turbo sitting on the side, according the the machanic good for 200+rwkw at 18psi and with this in mind the engineer had no problems signing off with just the HR31 brake set up and new pads...

you can get the Konis Orange range for the r30, externally adj shocks, i've got a set for mine, then i changed to the S-13 coilovers, only travelled about 100km with the Konis.. the price is the killer, i paid $750 for the fronts alone with the Koni's orange... all R30 use the same strut set up at the front, DR30 use a larger rotor and calipar set up... for the $$$ involved the best option is the S-13 conversion.. to go to the r31 set up, your looking at around $800 for a brand new set of sports shocks, $400 for Cusco r30 strut tops adj at the front, and depending on what brake upgrade you want the r31 struts will cost any where from $50 - $600 (Hr31 with a floating rotor set up)..

speck to NOLTEC about your lower control arms as i think they do an exchange item, i have just had the ball joints in my r31 control arms replaced so i think the r30 items are the same?? the problem with the tie rod ends is the ball joint part is tapered for the s-13 and on the r30 there is no taper, its a cylinder not a cone shape..... you can't get the nut on enough to be able to put in the pin.... if you use a grinder (dremal something like that) to the under side of the hub hole, remove a small circle at a time, you will get it to a point where it will fit..... this is not a 5 min job take your time to get it right....

i got a set of s-13 tie rod ends here but the tread is reversed.... Did you use adj chamber tops from an s-13? they are backwards as well and don't alow much adjustment... this conversion is so much easier in the r30 than in an r31.... the r32 4pots have the same fittings as well...

i haven't looked to see if the rears can be re-drilled to 5stud, if so your set if not then you would be looking at getting new items milled or some sort of swap?? about $1000 for new billet rear hubs made.... How did you go with the ti rod ends...

thats why a light coat of cheap paint is best, if you do f#$K it up it will come off with thinners / turps....

Core: i used a $2 matt black can and a light coating, piping you can get a better finish using a better paint... UHT heat paint for Brakes/enginge parts, if used correctly will look good when you open the bonnet.... there was a debate before on the heat reducing aspect to painting a cooler IE: the thicker the paint the less heat is extracted

i'll have these ones for sale in the next few months, missing one centre cap...

all sorted, all i have to do is apply for import approval takes about 2-4 weeks cause its in writing not via the internet, once that approved it can be complianced and road worthy sort, regardless of mods as well..... the forms are being sent to me now.....

anything in particular you want pics of?

i've only ever seen them with the "radiator style" connections, i think you'll find the other type is more for engine oil coolers this is a link to ebay, gives you an idea on what i mean..... maybe even an option for you http://cgi.ebay.com.au/AUTOMATIC-TRANSMISS...1QQcmdZViewItem

unless you want braided lines its just pressure hose that used from factory....

i'd say it would work on the same principle as intercoolers, the larger the core the better the cooling? i'm thinking along the lines of adding a second transmission cooler from a r31 to mine...

depending on what a good price for you is, you can get good coolers from supercheap for around 80-90, i'm just using the orignal one in my r31, the ones at supercheap are larger and thicker though, better for cooling i'd say.... i don't know how effective mine is what with the rate of flow, i made the mistake of poping off one of the cooler hoses when the car was running and it shot fluid well over 2m away in a stream...

i'm starting to look into weahter or not i can rego the HR30, what i've come up against so far is DOTARS dont have it listed so it is either not legal or imported before 1989 ?? i can't get any help from Qld transport without going through freedom of infomation as to weather or not the car has been rego'd before, i bought it 5 years ago without the intension of putting it on the road... unlikely to find the old owner to get the old rego #, i'm out of options??? anyone know what paperwork was required for cars imported pre 1989? getting the work for compliance is no issue but not worth it if i can't get it rego'd? Help!!

the car is 24 years old, the better the condition the higher the price, parts are quite easy to get within reason, the MR30 was an aus sold car and most parts are interchangable, things like the iron mask front end are harder to find/ replace. there is a great fj20 fan base here and parts and good workshops are out there. most of the problems listed are just standard problems with cars of its age, rust, damage to bumper & indocator and scratch to paint. standard things that you can go to a pannel beater to fix if your that concerned.

did you fix the problem? stuffed uni joint??

like MAG86 said: cut and polish for sure, matching seat covers front and rear, clean up the trim.... $100ish the r31 fronts will work as well to give it the lower stance all round. depending on what you mean by cheap you could save $$$ by buying r31 sports suspension and use the standard r31 springs and front struts, for about $850 you have good suspension lowered about 30mm and larger front brakes.... i have TRX rims on the HR30 just sprayed black cost $120 + tyres, i just like black rims ??? look for the HR/DR30 tail light, the DR30 ones look more like R31 late model ones, the HR30 look like the standard r30 ones but only the Skyline circle centre lights up... looks cool.... $300ish id say

Ok, i spoke to DOTARS and the VIN is not listed.... 2 options, car was imported illegally or car was imported before 1989 which is when the register started.. if the car has never been rego'd then it will become a track car, if it has been rego'd before lots of money will be spent on it. time to speck to Qld DOT... Thanks for the help....