MBS206

Knowing how slow their other compressors are that connect to the cars battery, you'd want to hope it's one hell of a slow leak!

Yep, I got the pedal, it was a huge thing I made sure I got for it. I have the CigWeld 205ACDC, with all the parts for it. Yes, Benny is good friends with Tony who owns it. I work across the car park from it. We presently have the Clio in our workshop. I met Benny for the first time a couple of weeks ago, nice guy! Was he at MSR with you? I know he worked recently on one of the V8s entered in as a wildcard.

That shed is wicked mate! I should come for a drive out to see the setup one day! Maybe you can give me some pointers to improve my terrible TIG welding while I'm there! Ha ha ha Nice to see some work on the 15 happening

My TIG likes to remind me I need more practise on the TIG. Especially Aluminium. My mild steel TIG isn't terrible (I'm not writing home about it either, but it at least doesn't just look like gooey metal)

No longer need the BOC account. It's all swap and go now from Bunnings/ToolShops. A fair bunch of the time I'm running my 180 on lower settings, and I'll run it on a 15amp to 10amp converter cable. When I need to ramp it up, I presently have 1x15A GPO and I move over to that socket with everything.

Thanks for asking the question we were all thinking!

Ignore the BOV / recirc valve question. You have an NA and shouldn't have one. If there magically is one though... It should be removed, though it shouldn't really effect it in the way one will for a turbo motor with it venting to atmosphere while running an afm.

I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.

Don't use "gasless MIG" (FCAW) you want to use proper MIG. FCAW burns a few hundred degrees hotter than MIG will for mild steel. It is a true ball ache for sheet metal. New MIG / TIG machines even have features like "Spot Weld" as well as "Automatic" settings. Plenty of people say for DIY home hobby, the auto machines are pretty good for 95% of welding. I personally, I'm a sucker for punishment and wanting to dial it in, and be able to adjust the machine. Mainly because I used to MIG weld for a living, and being able to tweak and tune things ever so slightly was my preference. Hence when I bought my ACDC TIG, it has all the adjustments for everything and no "easy" mode. Ha ha I have stick, MIG, "gaslessMIG" and ACDC TIG at home. Out of them, if you're doing mild steel sheet metal repair, and want to do mild steel exhausts, go MIG. If you're thinking you'll want to get into doing some aluminium stuff, or stainless steel, get an ACDC TIG with HF start. If you can, get one with a foot pedal too. My MIG machine is a UniMIG, and my Stick/TIG is CigWeld. If I were buying another machine, I'd buy another CIGWeld. Lots of people having issues with UniMIG, and them not wanting to cover warranty. Everything has to go back to UNIMig themselves. CIGWeld, I've had to use their warranty on my machine for a gas leak, they have repair centres everywhere, (contracted authorised repair centres). First repair place I used were hopeless, but the second place were amazing. Warranty process itself super easy, and second repair place was telling me CigWeld actually cover in their warranty, upto an hour of techs time to help you with your machine, and going through the settings and helping teach you the machine. UniMIG keep trying to get out of replacing motherboards on 12 month old machines. TLDR, mild steel sheet welding, buy a MIG. my vote is CigWeld for brand.

I guess that's what happens when someone can't convert metric to freedom units to machine something. 😛

Also check the factory 2 wire coolant sensor is functioning properly and plugged in. Ignore the dash, the dash uses a different temp sensor.

One hundred percent! Stock.... Take! It's your final parting gift from them! 😛 How warm can those ovens go? Can you get to 250c? If it can, please acquire two. I'll take one for powder coating... 😛

It still doesn't matter to the eye of the law. It's all those annoying grey areas. Engineer the car under a specific area, but that same thing is still illegal elsewhere. Hence, still not legal.

You'll need to put your acquisitions hat on Mark, especially on your last day. Acquisitions really is a great talent of defence personnel

The funny part is, an engineer's cert still doesn't actually make the car legal. Interesting part on that IE, even some cars from the factory are defectable as they sit in the showroom. So even stock doesn't mean legal.

And you can then legally not use your indicator too! 😛

So, Barra Turbo, with a fake RB25 and Nissan badging on it to confuse all? 😛

Oh man that sounds nasty! The fact it reads to a negative value is... Odd... That would nearly make me think is it firmware? Unless 0V doesn't equal 0psi?

Pansy... Drop engine in, drive it. Don't drive like idiot, so avoid popo attention. From a legalities point of view, you need most of the same stuff signed off by an engineer once you up the power, but everyone ignores that part of all the documentation don't they

About the same coin for LS3 and a 6 speed manual... However, needs more dollars spent making it fit... Probably about the amount of money that would be spent on new turbo, intercooler, ECU, tune, etc... I support stonking big V8s in Skylines...

I think definitely get a manual oil pressure gauge on it then. Double check if it's really dropping pressure that low.

I'll check the wiring plan tomorrow. Now when you say ALL the earth's are to the chassis, is that including the sensor ground from the ECU? Certain items should not be grounded to the car/body/chassis, they should ground back to specific ground pins on the ECU.

Honeywell... Ha ha ha an engineer friend left them about 18 months ago due to how bad of a shit show they were. Even she was bitching about how badly they run projects, and the programming issues they're constantly having within the projects.

Ha ha ha, this stuff they had was installing Toshiba PLCs that were made some time in the 1990s, and they were replacing GEM80 PLCs. To let those two talk (staged upgrade along a ~1.2km long building that was split into 4 sections), was a bunch of WinXP machines running Java gateways... There was no way to put something like ProfiSafe in... Most of the HMI machines were WinXP, with Java program, with a custom button board emulating a keyboard... About the only buttons in the operator stations that went direct to the PLCs was the eStop. There was some interesting design stuff in that place...

Well, I managed some time today and did start some of the welding on the PS Res. Absolutely no photos at the moment as today has confirmed what I've known for a long time. I need a LOT of practise welding aluminium... TIG is new to me... So yes, my welds are going to be butt ugly, and that annoys me and my perfectionism. Hence, no photos. When I did my design, my brain put together a backup plan in the event I couldn't reach properly inside to weld it... And I can't reach properly inside to weld it, so I need to enact my backup plan, which means I need to cut the main tube... The only powered saw I have big enough to cut 100mm diameter tube, is my big band saw and it needs an overhaul and new band put on, as it won't cut straight (And has wayyy too high of a TPI for alu anyway). The original cut that I did yesterday to cut it down to 350mm length I did by hacksaw. Let me tell you, the not overly active guy, with ADHD nearly started three different projects while cutting through that pipe, and today, my back and arms are killing me for trying to be active... So I've decided I'm NOT pulling out the hacksaw today to chop it down...