MBS206
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Everything posted by MBS206
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Random thoughts, is it possible positive jumper lead was touching either that metal box, or the oil line beside it? And just double check with battery disconnected there cables/connections aren't touching/resting on car body/other conductive material. It could even be an amp cable has come lose and is shorting, however I suspect you have fuses close to the battery for amp power supply and they would have popped (though if one only have melted, it could be why you have a higher resistance to earth now and it's not popping, so I'd double check amp wires/fuses) -
When they started to glow and crazy sparks, was the battery still in the car and connected to POS and negative? What sort of battery is it? (Lithium, lead acid, etc?) Is it possible you stuffed up the jump start and managed to get both POS and neg cables on a dead short through the skyline? Check the resistance again, then disconnect the power cable on the alternator, and then measure that same resistance from POS pole to earth. Then measure alternators POS pole to alternator body (with cable disconnected). Do the same on / with the starter motor.
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One Headlight isn't working - Driver Side Fuse Keeps blowing
MBS206 replied to kevboost7's topic in General Maintenance
Those two circuits would end up in the same looms from near cluster/stalk all the way to the SMJ from memory, so fault could be anywhere between cluster/stalk area down to the SMJ, and even in the SMJ. Other possible f**kery is some cars for compliance in Australia had extra resistors added to dash / headlight wiring to alter dash bright ness, so could be some dodgy free electrons floating out of that area if it's done in this car. -
More amps is also useful in modern cars when diagnosing, since just having canbus networks alive will draw over 5amp to power the car, and that's before you actually "turn the electrics on". Yep, I've flattened a few batteries while doing reverse engineering when I've forgotten to put the cars on the charger. Have also had one of those Victron chargers Dose bought die and start spewing high voltages out of it too. That's a sample size of 1 though. Charger lasted about 18 months before doing so.
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I've watched multimeters beep at over 100ohms of resistance. A continuity beep doesn't confirm a short, especially the less high end your multimeter is. Measure actual resistance.
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The wasteland, as least traditionally too, was the place with more relaxxed shittery/rules. Not to say you can post porn etc, but it was the place for good joking around, and a bit wild. There was also plenty of unwritten wasteland rules, such as what any user must do if someone posted up asking for likes/votes for a contest... Which was to go in and vote for someone else instead 😛
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Plenty of people I knew who drifted set their cars up more for grip than traditional "drift", and then just added LOTS of power. Gave them more control, and bigger smoke shows.
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Also your meter is showing not a dead short, but a 40ohm resistance if I'm reading that right. On a 12V load you would be seeing a 300mA constant draw. Enough to kill a battery in a couple of days easily, not enough to cause sparks and things to glow red hot.
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Or the terminal in the boot when disconnected from battery is flopped against the metal body work shorting positive to negative...
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Like a big hood scoop, and massive whiney boy supercharger? Think he'll sell it to me at my offer above? I could probably get it to $75 if he needs a little more convincing 😛
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So you reckon a few sweety something's whispered in her window and she'll behave for me? 😛
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You know that discussion everyone tags you in in this section about no one knowing how many posts they need to do something... ha ha sorry, couldn't resist 😛
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I'm thinking beyond spool. The claim in this alone shows evidence for spool only. But spool is one thing, what about the rest of our power band? And if we say 1mm is negligible, what is the relationship like for the gap? Is it linear? Exponential? Linear to a point and then it just doesn't matter anymore and stops getting worse? These are just all the questions... I don't know the answers definitively either.
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I guess the question becomes, if 10mm gives 1.7 seconds of spool difference, what does 1mm give? Because you'll need a gap. Even if you're the world's best fabricator and can get that fitment PERFECT, you have two metal surfaces about to heat up and expand. So you need to leave a gap. Realistically, they're likely to leave a couple of mm for most fabricators, so how bad is 5mm compared to 10mm? Or more so, how much worse is 5mm vs twin gated? But then, if it merging before the gate is bad and hurts spool, I wonder, what would happen if you keep both gates completely separated in their own exhaust systems too? Would there be any benefit anywhere to keeping them fully split? Would there be a benefit like with an NA V engine at running an X pipe or a H pipe?
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One Headlight isn't working - Driver Side Fuse Keeps blowing
MBS206 replied to kevboost7's topic in General Maintenance
From memory when the tank is full is when the resistance from the fuel sender reads its absolute lowest. It sounds like the short has made its way to the fuel sender wires... Which also means the short could possibly be in / around the cluster. -
Actually, that's what that post is saying is happening, with only the LAST 10mm to the wastegate flange not divided. A whole single centimetre is what they're claiming caused that change. However, I haven't actually punched the numbers in etc to do any mafs, but they're talking 26PSi + of boost, and it taking nearly 2 seconds longer to climb a further 200rpm... Yep, it was in 4th gear, but, say that car does 2800RPM at 100km/h, they're talking a car making 26PSi, is taking an additional nearly 2 seconds to go from 128km/h, to 135km/h... That's pretty extreme to me. Also interesting as you scroll down through the comments and I started reading there was someone who's done very similar testing, on a hub dyno, back to back without even pulling car off the hub dyno, and barely saw any change what so ever on a stupid powered car.
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You totally couldn't have that many cars running on Ethanol. You'd be employing two full time mechanics just to keep going through the vehicles, flushing old fuel out, and possibly changing anything the ethanol has eaten between the months it would be between drives.
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AMG GT R, and R8 is what I'd replace RS6 and M5 with.
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Getting the setup right, is likely to cost multiples of the purchase price of the vehicle.
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If you want the screaming "weeeee" sound, just let the gasket between the exhaust manifold and the turbo break a little. It'll go "weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee" everytime its on boost...
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Rb26/30 build
MBS206 replied to lilley's gtr's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
To help you out... If you head for the "Forced Induction" section of the forum, you'll find these two threads. RB30 Hybrid Dyno Results. RB30 Conversion Thread -
Rb26/30 build
MBS206 replied to lilley's gtr's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
A sticky, is a post in part of the forum that is "Stuck" and doesn't disappear. Sticky threads will be always the first topics to appear in the forum areas. -
Rb26/30 build
MBS206 replied to lilley's gtr's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead. -
No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
