MBS206

Or when you're at a motorkhana and need more lock...

Mine valve floats at 14PSi from 6600RPM onwards using a modified TD07S...

My waist straps have eye let bolts going straight through the floor with the certified mounts underneath that they are bolted too. That's on the door side. The gearbox side uses the seatbelt hole mount

Check your attessa and power steering fluid levels. Munky, as to that sensor I think and only THINK it's the pressure sensor. But don't quote me... I don't have my car here to check

Crack and pressure test first. If it passes, have it fully serviced. If it doesn't, throw it.

Well?

Man that looks schweet as Noddy! Me wishes I had the ability to spray paint too... That gloss black is HOT!

Price sounds good. And the valve stem seals are worth nothing really, so won't be a huge saving there. I payed $550 for mine with a crack and pressure test. The machine they normally do is just a tidy up (skim the surface and enough to make sure valves seal properly)

I buy mine off this forum...

Bearing dead... Possible oil issue.

No it doesn't as you're sitting beside it. When on the stand you're bending down and your back hates you. The last few I've done on the ground, the next one is getting a stand as I want to be able to put it up side down easily.

The heated seats, the ball scratcher, the undercar neons, the strobe, the sub... Yeah you forgot heaps! Hopefully I get my car moved soon and can start work on it.

If you need a hand, lemme know... I can scrape knuckles like the best of em! Or is this one at the mechs again?

All I have is a front road! But I move in 2 more days and I'll at least have a garage floor then!

This crazy mode it enters... Afaik that's the ecu causing that isn't it? Might need to recheck the wiring diagrams, but I believe it's done by ecu. As such that's already aftermarket. And I was going to rip everything out out cables and all. I'll test it once I've moved the car. Pull hicas controller out, see if ps is alive

I just realised... I thought you were going for 2 Bar SuperStar? Why only 24PSi now? Oh and steve... My 880s on 98 are already hitting 70% dc from the calcs I did... And that was on 14psi only revving to 6500...

How urgent is getting the HICAS computer for you? Mine will be out in like 2 - 3 weeks

Steve... Can I borrow your fuel system... Now I want to know what mine will make when I put more boost in... And revs... LOL Power Curve of yours is very much like how mine climbs up, same revs etc... But just one big single huffer! Awesome work Steveo!

A stail in compressor terms, from what I know in proper design operation is that the compressor continues to spin, but the air flow around it "stalls" much like when a plane stalls... Whilst the angle of attack is for "lift" it actually falls. Stalling when people are talking about not running a BOV they're meaning the actual compressor "stalls" or stops. To claim it stalls in the matter of air flows in the incorrect direction to what it should considering compressor movement is correct. And this is how we get the ptsusususu noise. The air flow turns backwards to the direction the compressor is moving it, forcing "high pressure air" out the air filter. The forces applied from the compressor then overcome the stall, forcing it back into the inlet piping. (Leaving a now nearly the same size low pressure area behind it, but not quite, so we have one high pressure "pulse"). Then the pressure builds up too much, flow reverses, and the process continues over and over, causing a high pressure, low pressure, rinse repeat of air flow out the air filter, and a then Ptsususususu... Of pressure fluctuations...

I'd be reckoning the auto and convertor...

Running a BOV, the compressor slows down as well right? If it doesn't... You might want to look into patenting the BOV and turbo setup as a perpetual motion machine. It's ALWAYS going to slow. Put a car on a dyno, run it up full tilt, make it "dose" with no air filter on and watch the turbo... The turbo will NOT stall. Simple test for you. Go on, go try it. Film it to with a super high frame rate so we can slow it down too, that'd be awesome. Thanks. As to the post I'd made, I can't find it at the moment, but I've made it around 5 times on this forum, a rather long read. Go have a look if you would like. Also, most of the failures people seem to have, that are blamed on no BOV are exhaust side oil seals... Now if all the pressure is on the inlet side... Shouldn't that side go kaboom first? And yes, the BOV was first bought about for emmisions reason. When a turbo "doses" air rushes backwards and forwards (As a sound wave does, hence the ptsususus) and this makes AFM metered cars go "Oh my, lots of air" which means lots of fuel, which means high CO emmisions. Have you noticed how the turbo had been around for YEARS and then as emmisions got tighter the BOV was introduced? And a vent to atmosphere BOV causes the same issue emmisions wise as not running a BOV. Look at all the late 80s turbo cars... They DON'T RUN BOVS... Are they known for killing turbos? No. Why? Because not running a BOV doesn't kill a turbo. What happened at the end of the 80s start of the 90s? Emmisions got tighter... What happened then? recirculating BOVs were invented... What happened then? some wanker invented atmospheric venting BOVs and started a rumour that not running a BOV caused damage to turbos...What happened then? By this time we're heading for the late 90s early 00s, and 15 year old turbos with over 250 000KM on them start dieing from old age... Mainly seals, or ceramic wheels... People view this as an issue created from these cars not having a BOV... The funny part... The cars with BOVs are all failing the same way too now... Just no one can see it! If a car running a BOV, vs when it never ran a BOV comes onto boost exactly the same between gears... Does it not show you that the compressor is not stalling/slowing any quicker then when it runs a BOV? Have you done any testing, or are you being a text book mechanic? I run currently a fairly old turbo, that yes,needs a rebuild as the exhaust side oil seal has started letting oil out under high oil pressure, but the funny thing... There is NO shaft play in this turbo... And it's got a SHITLOAD of KMs on it... And it's never ran a BOV... (And I punish it at the track, it's not a daily driver, or even a weekend warrior, it goes to the track, and back)

I've run a few times on the track without the powersteering pump connected. It's heavy, not too heavy. Quite nice for track work, until you get into a position where you might need to be flicking left to right trying to catch it... Moving around pits though... That's a bastard of a job... I put the belt back on for this reason and texikhana reasons.

Ah yes, but why do car manufacturers install them? Ask the designers... It has NOTHING to do with turbo life... The BOV was developed to meet what? Emmisions! Who was the first person to claim it damaged turbos? AFTERMARKET BOV MANUFACTURERS! Oh, and the whole slow to build boost with no BOV. I run a large turbo, so maybe you'll claim it has lots of KE to keep it spinning... Hence, I don't drop boost like others do. But then, the really small turbos don't drop boost between shifts either when not running a BOV... Do you know what does? SHITTY SETUPS!

The problem being it isn't seals or bearings that are failing in that position. It is the RPM of the wheels exceeding limits and too much heat, making the ceramic explode. Throw steel wheels in, change nothing else, those turbos run perfectly fine at 20PSi...