MBS206

Still have front bar with foggies? PM me if you will seperate the foggies from the front bar and how much you want.

The "Y piece" off the suspension. Is this for front passenger/driver? It's the top piece yes?

A mates old unit had a security gate, wasn't too bad except for the breaking every second day, but the safety release wasn't a handle, you needed to open a door thing up, and then use a ratchet piece to crank the gate open... Do it from outside and it'd break your arm! Mind you, people just used to climb through the break in the fence!

If they have a buzzer, they'll be back. Get the cars out ASAP

92 and 96db is also not quiet. Considering legal is 90db

An engineer? Depends where you live and what's done really.

I thought the GTR was going to be running an auto only. Hence all the comments on clutch dumps, and the syncros "breaking" etc, are a bit useless... Correct if wrong. And the only real issue with the GTR is the damn asking price!

WTF state are you living in? If the cop ticks "Full inspection" and you don't get a full inspection, the RTA can throw you straight back out, and if the inspector isn't careful, have his inspection licence revoked. There is a box for "partial inspection" I'd like to see this piece of law that supposedly says if you don't have steering/major components. The reason for a full inspection, is because the copper isn't knowledgeable enough on that area, so they send it to someone who is properly certified, and does it for a living, for them to pick it apart. If they say it's safe and fine, then the coppers are happy.

Okay prices: Identity check, safety check - including defect notice clearance, adjustment of records and LPG/CNG, if required: $48.70 Review of engineering certificate (design check) $34.20 If you want details of the place, let me know. If you are prepared to bring it down, be prepared to spend a WHOLE DAY down here... (Doesn't take him that long to go over it, just you drop it off at 9AM pick it up at 5PM and sometime during then he does it... That's the one thing that bugged me) Where my mate went, for just a defect clearance (Was full AUVIS inspection also) cost him $50, they did it there and then. Unfortunately they're VERY strict on stuff, and car must be in tip top shape. With mine, I got nocked back on the intercooler hose coming through the guard, hence me engineering it.

It's the price we pay in Wollongong.In Unanderra (Suburb of W'Gong for those not sure) I paid $50 for mine, plus $35 for eng cert added, and a mate paid $50 just recently (4 months ago) for a blue slip in the middle of wollongong. And no, not a pink slip. Both of these were required as full inspections after defects. I'll go grab my papers from the car now, I think it has price on it. Also, I'm thinking of PM'ing you in a minute re: GTR

Interested in swap for anything? PM price on shell + engine/g/box supplied with.

As a factory turbo owner you'll want to upgrade the turbos diff anyway. They just single leg too much at this age. Compression ratio, only a slight change from what I've seen, nothing to worry about. On the N/A engine, keep boost around 7PSi on a free flowing exhaust, other wise you WILL hit R&R and ONLY run it on 98 fuel. GTS-t HATE 95 fuel (Experience here) Braking department, it's a good opportunity to upgrade anyway. Stock internals should hold easily with just stock /high flow on the side. Longevity of a DE+T will all be about driver abuse. At the end of the day, rebuild it, and it'll be just as tough as a fully built DET Edit: My opinion, keep the R33S2 GTS for a daily run around. Go and buy an R33 S1/2 GTS-t for cheap as, keep it as a weekend car. The price that you pay for them now is basically nothing. Might as well get both. Then when the performer dies, you've still got a good daily.

May cost different depending on where you go. Last blueslip I got was $50, and then cost me another $35 I think it was to attach an engineers cert. After my blueslip, I avoid having to get them done!

You can go alot leaner then 12s as well if you want to, just need to watch your ign advance.

$50 for a full inspection. If it passes. Good. If it fails. Fix it within 14 days. They will go over the whole car. Check for loose/bad suspension. Steering rack. Ride height. Lights. They'll go over and under the car. Make sure your tyres are good and are legal for your car. If you have an exhaust, get it checked for DB readout first. You may need an EPA one too, normally just DBa though. Locks, make sure they work. Ign, make sure key can't be removed unless in "lock" Make sure steering lock works. Tinted tail lights? Detint them Illegal window tint? Detint them. Cracks in window? Get them fixed. Loose seats? Fix them. Guages around the place, remove them. (Even if you put them back in the moment you drive out) Usually, most people advise you to "offer" them something to fail the car on (IE, have a blown headlight or tail lamp) They'll pick it, you replace it, you pass.

Maybe he'll shit his undies... SKIDDIES!

Don't use the flanges. Use the joiners they run on truck exhausts. When you need to change exhausts, it takes 30 seconds, and there is NO gasket/goo involved! Want to replace the muffler with a straight piece... It's going to take you longer to jack the car up this way!

You sir, are an idiot. They'll let anyone advertise what ever they want in the mag as long as they pay! Plus Hot4s and FF know nothing on cars.

Best price on turbo?

Check connections on the fuel pump too. And check injector connections

Doing auto - man conversion on old commodore, threw half the parts away because I decided they were "unneeded" Car drove perfect too! Cable ties held it's front bar on, Worst thing in the skyline was double sided tape to hold the DVD player in

Oh, sorry, I thought you meant you spun it, drove off, spun again. Yes, these beasts do take a fair amount of care in the wet. Even in the dry they do as well... Next time at least you'll remember to be uber careful in the wet.

You spun out once... Did something in your head not click and say "Slow down, take it easy, it's wet, you've already lost it"? How do people manage to do this in the wet to themselves? I've been on bald tyres (Outside of tyre had tread, but inside was shot... 3deg camber) and in the wet, with oil to the point you could see it, and the only time I had an issue with traction, was accelerating away BRISKLY (If I drove how I should in the wet, there wasn't an issue!) So, I ask, how were you driving when you spun in the wet?

Sounds like it could be the corner of the brake pad. Take them out, and on the leading and trailing edges, put a 45degree chamfer (Very small one) and see how they go.

You only need to be heard driving on the street and have it go off and you're busted. They don't even NEED you to pop the hood. Then when you go for blueslip time, you get hit with EVERYTHING! (Oh, and blueslippers go underneath the car and would see it)