bubba

Was it still making power? or was more boost not doing anything? 365-370rwkw seems about it then! P.S. my example above was on stock 25DE cams.

And that 2kW difference was probably just due to a little more temp in everything after the first run.

Fusion, I've noticed the same too. Full throttle shifts 1-2 (but mine also flares a fair bit in D) it flares badly. Part-throttle shifts it's all fine, gets in the pretty quickly. I really thought in my case it was down to the Haltech not pulling timing when the gearbox needs to change. The difference between not letting it hit limiter and letting it hit limiter once, is like day and night. Hit the limiter once and wham, it's in gear. Making a fair bit more power than stock though so *shrug*, I'm going to ditch the Haltech and get a Vipec Howie, I came across a paddleshift kit not long ago, I'll try remember where I saw it.

Checked your power steering fluid? The power steering pump makes some nice rattling noises when fluid is low..

Stock manifold & throttlebody on my 30 (they are off an R32 RB25DE), made 365rwkw in the previous car they were in - we think that they were a restriction at that point. Same turbos are on a new 30 (but with a 25DET head) with a GReddy intake manifold and q45 t/b, made 395awkw @ 2psi less boost. (Original car was a rwd, new car is 4wd). I would say that is about the level the stock manifold and throttlebody are good for

Never see over 95 on the street and that's usually on a really hot day stuck in traffic.

yey!

Stock thermostat is 76.5C. Normal Operating temperature in the region of 82C. Boiling point of most systems, 110-115C. Stock dash temp. gauge is useless, half way (few mm either side) ranges from ~60C - ~95C, you won't notice it moving until you've already hit 100C. Just below the top of the gauge for me is 104C (only seen that high once after a few big burnouts).

Recondition to factory specs?

R32 GTSt actuators are 10psi, putting one on an RB25 would be a benefit if you wanted more boost but without a boost controller, or you didn't want your boost controller to work as hard.

I ran my R32 GTSt for over a year with an untuned 250rwhp, only issue I had was on the way home from a cruise one day I snapped the clutch fork pivot >.< Was super fun, went hard and took a LOT of punishment. Then I decided to get a little more serious

0.4mm gap?!@?! Oh and I pay about $2ea for my copper NGK's..

Aswell as a bigger hub to accomodate the drum for the handbrake shoes. Probably better off machining a stock rotor down so the hub becomes a hat and run 2 pieces rotors..

Depends how cheap a 30 you want to build.. To put an RB30DET (with R32 RB25DE head) into an R32 GTSt is easier than putting an RB25. Cost wise, it would probably be cheaper* to buy a 33 halfcut and put the RB25 in. *You could build a cheap RB30DET but it really depends on usage and power goals as to how much it would cost.

Spot on Bradd. I have always run coppers in my RB20 and then 25/30, and also now in the Neo in my Stag. Oh, you should always be gapping the plugs before you put them in anyway, just because they *say* they are pregapped at 1.1mm, doesn't mean they actually are..

If you ditch the 4wd, why not just start with a 32 gtst? sr20 into 32gtst has been done many a time.

lol one day the Stag will get a 30, but it's not getting the 32s' 30 If anything happens to the Stags' bottom end.. it will definitely get the 30 treatment P.S. I'm free on all of those dates but Sundays I'm usually at paintball training so later arvo if possible

As for parts: Japanese Performance Centre - Osborne Park KYP - Welshpool Japparts WA - Welshpool?

Actually, I would say the RB30 (with R32 RB25DE head) is the easiest conversion.. engine for engine (that doesn't include building the 30, just purely the engine swap).

I like this man.. someone get him a cookie!

Question on FreeDrive.. It runs off the Destinator engine? did you purchase this? comprehensive australian maps? where did you purchase it from? What GPS receiver are you running? Cheers!

Nice work Samon Any chance you're willing to send me your skin? At the moment I use Nissan Datascan but have to minimise RoadRunner and run with the Datascan dashboard display, to skip songs or anything like that I have to get out of the dashboard display, go back to RR, do what I want to do then minimise again and go back to the dashboard display.. gauges in RR would be cool but I'm more of a hardware guy than a code monkey

Hmm so the flare up isn't just in my case? I thought the Haltech wasn't dropping timing when the gearbox wanted to changes gears resulting in the huge flare, if these are factory shifts then that's pretty gay.. I will be getting an MV Auto's valvebody soon though.

Braided brake lines and a master cylinder stopper will make quite a difference.

I have 327mm slotted DBA4000's with 33gtst calipers and Ferodo DS2500 pads on the front of my 32gtst. Wow, what a lot of braking lol. The slots in these rotors don't extend all the way to the edge either.