Jump to content
SAU Community

bubba

Members
  • Posts

    16,111
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by bubba

  1. Yeah you could say that I will go out on a limb and say while it won't hold more power (because it's the same amount of fluid, need to drill bigger holes for that), it will help the gearbox live longer as there is far less slip on the bands. The shock loading may damage other things over time (such as flex plate) but I haven't noticed it. Going to look at getting billet flex plate machined up before the replacement box gets here (still ~4 weeks away ).
  2. Nice, I'm going to turn up a fitting to replace the dipstick and run a hose to my catch can.
  3. 6.5L ASR baffled/gated sump here
  4. Now now Skeeter, he ain't hurtin' no-one
  5. If deck height is below 0, wouldn't that increase compression?? I was more trying to make the point that the head and cams are fine.. there is no inherent problem with that type of head and cams that would cause this issue.
  6. A better approach to better fuel economy would be to buy a wideband O2 sensor that can output a narrowband signal, wire it in place of the standard O2. Get a NIStune and run O2 feedback across the whole map. I will say however, if this is for your Stagea, it will be the biggest pig ever.. without VCT to help bring my laggy highflow on boost the heavy assed wagon was absolutely terrible to drive around town. Terrible. And my fuel economy wasn't better at all. It was much worse because the engine was labouring trying to haul the wagon around when it really needed a bit of boost to help. Or.. buy a 4cyl N/A daily.
  7. You would really need a tune to make use of it. What everyone has been trying to tell you is that compression ratios, combustions chambers, cam profiles and ECU maps have all been set up for a TURBO. The best compromise you could get would be to run an ECU with dual map functions and actually TUNE the thing for no boost.
  8. Had it for almost a year and no dramas (I did break something but not due to the firmer shifts.. trying to drop a 2nd skid on semi slicks straight after the first.. snapped the oil pump drive on the torque converter ). I was having major problems with shifts, especially 1-2, due to the Haltech that had been wired in as a piggyback. I had to either bounce the limiter or lift off the gas to get it to go in. Now, it's pretty well instant. The downshift from 2nd to 1st is awesome, instant wheelspin when in 2WD
  9. I have a feeling they are solid rubber but they aren't even listed on the HardRace website
  10. I came across some upgraded replacement cradle bushes the other day, couple of different brands and I think JJR sell one of them... Here they are, would be worth some research I guess.. http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=20067&cat=398&page=1
  11. Very tidy!
  12. If it *looked* strong enough I don't see why not.. 75PFC with 5mm flatbar extensions for the holes a gusset on each leg and decent welding (read: not dodgy looking) should be fine if you wanted to make one from scratch.
  13. They light up on the dash..
  14. I could have said sand but then I would have been lying as it was actually glass beads
  15. I will go out on a limb and say you have an R32 GTSt MANUAL Xmember.. I had to extend my holes with flatbar because the mounts on the 25t box are 50mm further back than the 20t box.
  16. I can help you set up a basic camera system if you want, I set one up after I got broken into and for not a lot of money can you set up a rather effective system.
  17. You need to press the old cradle bushes if you want to replace them.
  18. Again I will say it won't be an inherent problem with the the RB25DE head or cams specs.. my money is on the wrong pistons for the application.
  19. I can't see the pics at work but I saw them this morning, pretty sure the one I have is the middle one.
  20. Mechanically, there is no difference between a series 1 and 2 R33 era RB25. Things like ECU, coilpacks, TPS are different (and thus the harness). RB20 & RB25 exhaust manifolds are the same. RB20 and RB25s1 coils and igniter are the same (s2 went to igniters on the coils), RB20 and RB25s1 AFM is also the same. Use the P/S and A/C that are already in the car, should all bolt up to the block fine.
  21. We used to use Bosch hall effect sensors as crank triggers when converting diesel to CNG, was a while ago but I'm sure there is a catalogue on teh interwebz somewhere.
  22. Yeah welsh plugs in the 1-2 2-3 shift accumulators, done it to my Stagea and so have a couple of others. Makes a HUGE difference! Mine more than chirps though.. in 2WD, get on boost in 1st, click 2nd and it's super happy sideways lunchbox time
  23. Pretty much what I did for the 25 box conversion but the other way. Used 5mm flatbar to extend the RB20 manual Xmember to pick up all 4 bolts holes (25 box mounts are further back)
×
×
  • Create New...