bubba

Exactly and yes there does appear to be, particularly home invasions to get the keys.

That's why I have security cameras, solid block doors and security screens.. next stage up from there is steel frames and lock bars.. then 10ft concrete walls topped with broken glass.. then automated sentry guns.. Have been broken into before where they ripped the back door off its' hinges and sheered the deadbolt, didn't make me feel very comfortable

Also wondering this, the original RB20DET fuel rail I had I'm pretty sure only had one reg. The one I have now has 2 and they both seem to require a vacuum source, from the same point??

How about less facebook talk and more fuel rail talk ffs

cNTS! Will keep an eye out Any pics?

You should all move to WA.. I got my 32 registered with the 3L with nothing more than letting the inspector take it for a drive.. when he got back and handed me the keys he said "thanks for that! I love skylines!"

Spotted you on Guildford Rd from the passenger seat of Ross' R32 (golf!) on Sunday I think it was.

Not sure about series 1 but I think it's the auto series 2 that has the GTT rear. Hopefully chuckie sticks his head in here, I think he's quite knowledgable. Front upper arms should be 33gtr and rear upper arms any R33/S14 upper arm should fit (I've got R33GTSt rear upper arms on my auto s2). Swaybars, 33gtr should fit front and back (auto s2 has a wider cradle and it's a much tighter fit). Stock 33gtr swaybars are an upgrade or just go with Whiteline (I have them in my 32). Never heard of a front underfloor reinforcing bar.. Tension rods.. do you mean castor rods? Don't get too hung up on the whole "Nismo" thing, there is often better aftermarket stuff for cheaper.

Anyone have any knowledge on coolant flow through RB blocks and heads? or a coolant flow diagram? Trying to figure out what the water outlets on the underside of the plenum are for and where they come from (i.e. trying to figure out if I can block them off with no adverse affects).

I see your poor fuel pump earth and raise you some dodgy CAS wiring!

I just put R33 GTSt items in my 32 GTSt, just make sure if you have ABS you get an ABS master cylinder and if no ABS, get a non-ABS master.

Cost me $80 to replace both, it's was more annoying having to become a contortionist to get the 4 nuts off up under the dash.

If it's a 20det box then it will fit over the 25 flywheel and clutch fine, might need a starter to suit though?

It's probably due to the ECU cutting IGN briefly on the shift.. means you get a bit of unburnt fuel into the hot exhaust which goes bang..

yay for electrical gremlins!

As in the offset from the main part of the bar?

Well all the normal stuff appears to check out OK, I think Ross checked the fuel pump too. The gaps in insulation on the wires of the CAS plug didn't fill me with a lot of confidence.. neither did the butchery at the ECU plug end!

What Ross said. To sumarise for others, we tried a known working CAS and Igniter and repaired Jesses' coil harness.. I'm pretty confident the issues doesn't lie there. Discovered some exposed copper on a wire coming from the ECU, in the vicinity of some dodgy splices. Also some exposed copper on a couple of the wires going to the CAS plug. Basically, we got it started and it felt like it was running on 1 or 2 cylinders and sounded like it has a big exhaust leak too. I would start with fixing any dodgy wires (or replace with a working loom) and try kick it in the guts again and see how it fares then. Jesse > < 20yo electrics

PM sent

Cheers.. patience and perseverence

^^ this.

Front seats and grills etc

Bloody bigassed radiator makes the shroud not quite fit the fan

It's the biggest Whiteline adjustable for 32gtst that I could get, no spacing involved.

I used a 20det bracket and cut the top lug back, not sure about 20E being a single cam head and all..