bubba

A leak in the cooler pipes will cause a loss of boost. A leak in the vacuum hose going to the actuator will cause an increase in boost because the pressure is bleeding off before it gets to the actuator, thus requiring even more pressure before the leak to move the actuator.

Cheapest option is wait for Steve Mays' next container to land, he has put two boxes in there for me

Nice work Rowan et al. Sounds like it was an event I shouldn't have missed but I had to take the opportunity to finishing putting my engine together so that I can attend at least one event some time soon!

It's the highflow off the wagon but freshly rebuilt by Grant at Per4manz (he built it originally), reckons it's good for 24psi and 400rwhp but I'll probably only wind 15psi into it until I get a new gearbox for the wagon.

How much power are you after? and how do you want to use it?

lol ditto, keen to just fkn drive at the moment too! I'm fully prepared to get my ass handed to me aswell.. my turbo is only a baby compared to your Kando monster!

Well the engine is pretty much ready to go (except for a bit of welding on the water outlet of the plenum), should hopefully be going in the car on Wednesday!

zomg it's tom! hurry up and get another skyline

Westrac are good, the sell CAT batteries for really good prices!

Have a look in the WA>Wasteland area, there was a guy that posted a thread about his autoeleccing service...

Mine is only coming back together so quickly because I broke the gearbox in the wagon The urgency is why I've grabbed a stock bottom end for now.

That is one of the potential locations another is in between radiator and cooler (directly above bov return pipe), right down the bottom with a long narrow core, something like this should more than suffice.. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-13210/?rtype=10

25t/30 It looks pretty much like an axle end where it goes into the diff.. as for clearance, I have no idea. Shanef was working on a splined setup for RB's but got ripped off by his machinist or something 2JZ-GE oil pump..

Worst comes to worst I'll mount the p/s and oil cooler at the top in front of the radiator but was trying to keep that path clear. With the GTR cooler setup behind a stock type-m front bar, doesn't leave a lot of room for anything! But really I'm not phased at the moment, it's only going to be a daily until I get a gearbox for the wagon.

Mine is just looped back into the resevoir for now, have a cooler to go on using the second circuit when I can be bothered but there's not a lot of room behind the bar

Not sure on cost as I haven't done mine yet as my forged build is on hold for a while, chuckie should know soon. We had it done to my mates 30 in his GTS4 and that thing cops an absolute beating, 8500rpm limiter launches and burnouts, still going strong. Realistically, it should add much onto the cost of machining at all. Wouldn't take more than an hour to weld the snout up and if just fitting a collar the snout needs to be machined right down anyway. On the topic of crank runout.... why would a splined setup ala JZ, not completely destroy itself?

Rear cradle in or out make no difference to complexity. It's the solenoid under the plenum and the lines across the front crossmember and the cooler line that runs across the radiator support that present the problem. I must say, it's a lot easier to change oil filters with the solenoid gone

Was a while ago but it was somewhere around $80 delivered

You need to use all RB25DET stuff, things like water temp sensors are different, depending on series of RB25 then coilpacks and AFM are different. Like I said, if you're using an RB25DET head, you effectively need to perform an RB25DET conversion. If you were to use an R32 RB25DE head, then you could reuse ALL of your RB20 stuff.

The only straight bolt on heads are RB25DE (R32) and RB26.

It's a bit of a mission to rip all the lines and the solenoid out, I put a lockbar in and then waited until I next had the engine out to remove the rest of the crap. I got my lockbar off a trader over east (NYTSKY).

Ditch the hicas

Got pics? Why didn't you shim the diff that was in your car?

You might be able to get away with the stock ECU for a short time but RB25 ECU's seem to be less tolerant than RB20 ECU's. When I first built mine, I ran it on the RB20 ECU for a couple of months. The only issue was the stock AFM was maxing out at about 5500rpm and it ran pretty rich.. not really what you want with fresh rings that are bedding in.

There are a couple of guys on here that are autoeleccys, they should be able to help.