Upper arms are piss easy to replace and you don't need to drop the subframe.
I'm thinking of giving the HardRace items a bash in the manual cradle I have for the Stagea.
lol
Charles has taken it off to drill a couple of holes and get the flange machined flat, dump pump is en route and I still need to buy a battery and go down to see Corey about the radiator. Aiming to kick it in the guts next weekend!
I will attempt to find out. I didn't do the decking, I bought the setup like that when I built my first 30. I got the block/head/pistons from a matching setup and chucked in a stock crank and rods. I'm now using the same head on a stock n/a bottom end.
Manual is a 33gtr, auto is 50mm wider. There is a known issue with link angles on the auto when using 33gtr bars, some say it's fine and some think it's bad news..
I might just wait until I put the manual rear cradle in.
Hmm interesting..
I was just working off your documentation Matt, I haven't done a 34GTR yet.
Pretty much all the NIStune installs I have done are Type-4 boards in either 34GTT's or s2 Stageas.
Type-2 board is in my 32gtst's ECU and I will be kicking that in the guts next week.
Just had a squiz in the 32R manual and Nissan spec up 7.5W-30 for the RB26.
I run Valvoline Synpower 5W-40 (used to run 10W-50 but that's a little heavy).
Can someone explain this to me please?
My understanding was that if deck height it below zero that means the block has been decked, the more you take off the block the more the pistons will sit proud of the block and the more the compression ratio is increased..
I'm running an OEM RB26 gasket (1mm?) with a stock RB30E bottom end and a shaved head which we think will give about 9:1 (as opposed to my last setup with 30ET pistons and ~7.5:1).
Genuine exh mani gasket cost like $120 trade
I've found Nissan really good in some aspects but then others like seals (forget it) and idlers/tensioners I source elsewhere (get my idler/tensioner bearings from Statewide Bearings for dirt cheap!).
You want a bonnet scoop without cutting a hole in the bonnet??
For starters, that's just gay R.I.C.E. shit that will draw unwanted attention for no reason.
Secondly, if you don't have a hole in your bonnet, why would you need to mesh the scoop??
Yep any competent auto trans place should be able to do it. Drop the pan and valve body, there will be 4 accumulators (basically a sprung piston in a chamber the fluid flows through). The middle two are the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts, from memory I think you need 50mm welsh plugs.