bubba

lulz

Good luck

Should be fine mate, you'll have to take it over the pits to get it onto WA plates but they shouldn't be too anal with those minimal mods. I think you also get a grace period of a few months before you have to get it rego'd here.

lulz. Sounds elitist. Tristan, I'll join your club. Then when my new turbo is on I'll start a +400rwhp w/gate R32 club. I'll then rock up to your elitist 34 cruises, smoke it up and disappear before the cops rock up to reem all you snobs.

25DE head, good condition bottom end (get the crank reground just for peace of mind, cost me $120), I've got forgies but I got a good deal on a block/piston/head setup. Use everything off your 20 (25DE intake manifold ports are slightly larger but it's only a bee's dick worth). I'm running a 25s1 turbo which I had on my 20. Becomes a major restriction at about 5800rpm where it falls over harder than it climbs. Could have lent on it a bit more but would have only caused to turbo to fall over sooner. Making a super torquey 183rwkw with 12psi by 2200rpm. I had it running on the standard ECU but needed to use a group-buy remap chip I had because it was hitting R&R pretty much straight away. I was also maxxing the AFM at about 6000rpm. So, I got myself some 550cc injectors and a z32 afm and had my ecu remapped with a bit of a tune to throw in a bunch of fuel down low so it didn't lean out when it came on boost hard. Quite fun to drive but should be a lot more fun with the GT35R strapped on the side As far as wiring goes, if you use an R32 RB25DE head, everything plugs straight up. We did my conversion in a weekend and I drove it home very early Monday morning on the stock ecu

I'm running an N1 oil pump (got it from Sliding Performance) and a standard RB20 water pump. From what I read, the N1 water pump is useless for street driving and was designed for sustained high revs (constantly 7000rpm+, i.e. around a racetrack) but it pretty shocking for low rpm street driving.

I run a Nismo GT Pro 2way, bit noisy and clunky but I love it. Mucho burnouts, lots of sliding at skidpan days, been over 8 months and still going strong

You can see where the lock should be in the first photo

Sounds like a vigilante patrol is needed in Atwell.

I maxed the exhaust side of my 25 turbo @ 183rwkw.

If you really wanna kill the 26 give me call, I'll help

Shutup and build a 3L Tristan.. you know you want to

I think the GTR Nismo shifter is 25% whereas the GTST Nismo's are only 10%. I have a C's shifter on my 25 box, love it, no dramas.

Hmmk, don't know much about 33's, AFAIK the boost sensor was purely to operate the indash boost gauge. That power isn't bad, I've got a 25 turbo on my 30 and it makes 183rwkw @ 12psi but really dies in the ass up high, about 5800rpm it chokes up bigtime

Do you have a map?

</cower>

My engine in it's previous car was making ~365rwkw through the standard throttle body. Benefits of a bigger throttle body? Would it be less restriction? thus allowing you to make the same power with less boost? I'm finding it really hard to justify a new throttle body...

I assume from your statements that you are running a D-Jetro PFC (MAP sensor)? To run it on a standard ECU you will need to throw an AFM in there. I will also guess that it will max the standard AFM pretty much straight away and run in R&R most of the time..

oo another drafty! and she drifts! welcome aboard

My agent charges my employer a rate ontop of my rate (18% I think..). The only thing that comes out of my rate is super and tax.

Aslong as they aren't stronger than me it's all good You're not stronger than me are you Pamela?

No probs, good luck with it P.S. heavy steering makes your arms stronger

Basically the HICAS light is coming on because the HICAS ECU is throwing up an error due to lack of signal (it gets a road speed signal from the speedo which then sends it to the ECU). Our cars also have speed sensitive steering which kicks in at about 80kmh (light steering for low speed and parking etc, heavy steering for high speed etc), if it doesn't get a road speed signal or a steering angle signal, after a few minutes it will throw up an error and your steering will go heavy. Unfortunately you can't just buy the needle as it is integral with the cable so you need to get a whole speedo cable. Head to Northside Nissan and specify the year and model of your car and they should be able to sort you out, when I got mine they had one in stock so it was all good.. Any competent mechanic who knows skylines should be able to do it. I did mine myself when I put the 25 box and 280kmh dash in. Good luck

1UZFE, Toyota 4L quadcam v8, 6-bolt mains, very strong standard internals.

As cubes said VLT boxes are reasonably strong, a non turbo VL box however is pretty much just an RB20 box..