bubba

I have 34gtt rims on my 32gtst, they are 7.5" wide. I'm running 225s on the front and 245s on the back. Initially had to run a 3mm spacer on the front as the rims bound up on the brakes, when I changed to 33gtst brakes this problem went away and I didn't need the 3mm spacer (there is barely 1mm of clearance though).

Different state but my car passed the pits with 10mm spacers, I used flatbar painted black and did it so the bonnet would close over my 30 without bending

Could be the plugs onto the coils, I know my car is a fair bit older but the insides of the coil plugs were falling apart causing a real nasty misfire when it got hot. Soldered on some new plugs off a mates' loom and it's all fine now, been meaning to get myself a new loom eventually.

Umm says he has a 33 gtst.. you'd need to modify the mount, tailshaft and speedo drive.. and then the next question is, why do you want to downgrade?

Good Year Belmont hey.. that's close to home, I'll probably come see you at some point

My 20 w/25 turbo with stock fuel pump was seeing around 13.5:1 but boy did it go like a shower of shit heh. Was pretty lean so did the fuel pump and untuned it made 246rwhp (@12psi) so I was pretty happy. A tune will pretty much get rid of some of the lag (by smashing in timing down low) but I didnt see the need at that level, I preferred to save my money for the 30+bits.

Could be a leaky manifold/turbo gasket?

When you say it goes "crooked", is it just stepping out sideways?

The immediate symptoms sound like a popped cooler hose..

I used a turbotech one until I was given a ProfecB for my birthday. The turbotech item is a good piece of kit

Include SARD in that list. I'm running 550cc Denso injectors and the only issue we ran into was that they needed a couple of copper washers to chock them up as they kept popping out of the manifold on boost. Tuner said it was common and he'd see it before on older denso/sard injectors. Other than that, they're fine

Just book it already! would prefer the weekend after the 6th June though.. got a tournament on the 6th and a scenario day the week before

Absolutely fine, I ran my RB20 with a series1 33 turbo for nearly a year on 12psi and regular heavy beatings Oh and unless your fuel pump is dying (which it's likely not as you say it's got a bigger one) it's likely running rich as opposed to lean, what an SAFC will do for you is a cheap way to lean it out a bit and gain some more top end power. I didn't bother with any of that shit and waited till I got the 30 in before I got it tuned properly (remap).

Sounds expensive..

$10-20ea usually, most places will do it unless they feel like being asshats.

My mate bought a VN SS from Qld off ebay and used TNT, I think it cost him about $1100 to get it here.

Where abouts?

+1 for wet, doesn't bother me, would like to push it in the wet too and I won't trash my rear tyres too much

Yes there will be a heap of difference between RB20 and RB25 settings unless you're running an RB20 actuator. I also wouldn't put your SET GAIN to 5psi, A) it defeats the purpose of this function and B) that is when your stock actuator will be opening and it might create some issues. Start conservatively with your SET GAIN at say 7psi then slowly bump it up until it starts to spike then back it off slightly.

Try cleaning all the plugs and wiggling them about, I haven't replaced my loom yet and one plug is only half together.. I had to pinch a couple of plugs off my mates coil loom and solder them on to mine. Fixed it for now till I can get a whole new loom from Japan (don't bother going to nissan).

Make it soon Brad!

That's what was causing my misfire problem.

Ugh to having to ref. Saturday morning

While that would be fun it was too much headache and then turbo'ing it would be a nightmare.. the idea is still floating around in the back of my head so maybe one day Chuckie, all I did to my crank is have it ground for oversize bearings. My engine isn't going to be seeing huge revs or MASSIVE power for quite some time, when I get to that stage I'll re-do the crank aswell as new rods etc (or likely get one of these 3.4L cranks ) On that note, these bigger cranks.. will they already have the long oil drive and all the other goodies people do to their cranks (grub screwing etc)?