bubba

I reckon someone sneakily loosens a hose clamp on that evo to give everyone a chance

I'm keen Brad, have an engineer mate here at work with an FPV GT who has been wanting to get both our cars out on the pan too..

Umm.. even then I wouldn't be able to floor it until the straight bits.. VH41 + TT would just send me into a tree faster To be honest though, with the 3L + GT35R I should have decent low down with absolutely insanity over 3000rpm

Too many hassles BTW my drivability through the hills the other night will disappear when the big turbo goes on.. because power is so early and delivered so linearly is great but once new turbo is on I'll only be able to floor it on the straight bits

My headlights used to be a bit dodgy, we just bent the contacts out a little more so they contacted the globes properly..

Some flat bar extentions welded onto the original bracket, have a look in the Drivetrain forum there should be a much larger thread on 25boxes into 32s.

I also had very similar problems, once hot it would misfire horribly over 4.5-5k, turns out it was the actual harness plugs onto the coils. They were all brittle inside and were falling apart.

Exhaust side will be fine but if you have a custom plenum it won't fit. If you have a custom forward facing plenum you could always sell it to me

Should be able to get the ceffy handling pretty well. IMO all those era cars (including my 32) were lacking was a decent engine.. hence my twincam 30

Cheers SK, I'm not aiming higher than that anyway so hopefully it's all good

That's pretty bloody fat for the front... I'd be inclined to stick somewhere around 235.

I believe they are 225/45/17.. which is what I run on the front (I have 34 gtt wheels).

Not at all.. I'm running 245/40/17's on my 17x7.5 rims..

James: I removed via a lockbar.. if you remove the steering rack you need to put something in its' place to hold the tierods (things that adjust toe and/or are used for steering) or the back wheels would flop about a hell of a lot You can get lock kits such as the tomei one which retain the steering rack but use an arrangement of washers to lock the tierods in place. Karina: Yes it will affect HICAS and the speed sensitive steering. When the little needle on the end of my speedo cable snapped and I thus had no speedo, I had to drive around with heavy steering until I put a new cable in when I installed my new dash. I now have a lockbar in the back, no HICAS solenoid thing in the engine bay, removed all the lines. Have also got a 25 box and a 280kmh speedo, I get the HICAS light on the dash after 1-2mins of driving but my speed sensitive steering is still there.. I believe if you unplug the HICAS ecu in the boot you will lose the speedo sensitive steering.. Edit: oops just realised you said "odometer", does this mean the speedo still works but the odo doesn't??

Hmm, well that's not very comforting Would it be advisable to lower the limiter? I don't rev past 6000rpm now anyway due to the tiny rb25 turbo choking the engine up and I've got taller diff ratios which help with the lesser rpm.. I imagine with the GT35R strapped on there I'm going to have an abundance of torque and might not necessarily need to rev it to 6800..

Nah I've got the Pro78, I was going to get the XTR690 but they were out of stock so he gave me the Pro78 for the same price That's also the same place I got it from

Shouldn't need a fpr, aslong as the fuel pump is in good order the ecu will do the rest. You generally want to trim a bit of fuel out anyway which is why people get SAFC's for minor mods instead of a full tune. P.S. my last power run cost $70, not a big cost to make sure your afr's are alright..

Interesting..

SK, I might be misunderstanding, are you saying that if the revs aren't excessive then the rods should be able to handle a lot more than 4-500hp? I have my 30 limited to 6800rpm, reckon I would be able to push more than 400rwhp on the stock rods with that limit?

Interesting..

That's crazy shit nath!

Mate, it's teh internetz, don't believe everything you ready BUT, when you ask a question and the overwhelming majority tell you one thing and you're adamant it's the other, what do you expect? You can't really have too large an exhaust on a turbo, completely different to having too large an exhaust on an N/A..

Sounds like what my car used to do before I removed teh dodgy HICAS, minus the noise though.

But the dyno would have gone PASSED 3000rpm so they can still compare power output at 3000rpm.. your argument is flawed. Sounds like you need to buy a diesel..

There should also be the full engine number on the exhaust side just before the bellhousing..