bubba

I think you need 4WD lines to suit a 33gtr or something as they are longer/diff orientation to RWD. Send chuckie a PM, he got some braided lines made up for our RS4Vs, I'm running the single piece lines.

Oh..

SO MUCH WIN!! Anyway, on topic, AFAIK our ECU's only learn minor things like idle and cruise fuel trims.

None whatsoever

Any fully synthetic around the 0W-40 range.. personally i run Synpower 5W-50 in my forged 30 and stock 25 Neo but I think Nissan recommends 0W-40ish or something. We don't have the extreme cold temps here so you don't need to go as thin on the cold side as they do in Japland.

Sigh, I need to remember to look at this while at home so I can actually see the pics! Got a part number for the Jaycar adjuster?

I think I've seen that Magna near my place, will sus it out and let you know

044 in tank FTW. Hyperdrive sourced all the fitting and installed mine (including rewiring) for a very good price, can be done yourself and there's plenty of DIY writeups on the forums, I just cbf

The covers should swap over fine, halfshaft splines should also be the same if the 32 diff was a VLSD. I had to use my 32 halfshafts when I put the shimmed 32 VLSD into the wagon as the wagons' open centre halfshafts were tiny. As for the non-hicas cover, it's been a while since I've been under there but doesn't the rack/bar bolt to the subframe? it's not supported by the diff cover at all.. probably just longer fins on the hicas equipped cover.. the bar isn't going to move at all in relation to the diff housing so if you can bolt everything OK, all good

Ok, I've never played with twins so no idea what they're good for but the 3L pushes a fair bit more exhaust gasses, especially up high. I had a baby turbo on my 3L and while it made the same power as the 2L, it did it a lot sooner and choked the exhaust housing up (even though there was still more flow left on the compressor side).

I bet it was the same if you tried to push through it too, it would get to 2500rpm and pick up a bunch of power but not really be very happy about it.

For an auto 34GTT, NIStune is pretty much the only option. As the TCM is part of the ECU, you need to wire any standalone in as a piggyback (that's how my Haltech has been wired up) otherwise you'll be driving around in 3rd gear everywhere

And like I said, what you are describing sounds EXACTLY like cold start in my 32gtst. If you're so sure there is something wrong then stop fking around with an internet diagnosis, get someone with a Consult cable and Datascan (or equivalent) to plug in and see if there is anything amiss.

So much easier to use the housing the gears were meant for, otherwise you're up for the added cost of new pinion bearings/seals etc as you must use the pinion gear that matches the crownwheel. When I changed to 3.9:1 ratios I put my 2-way centre into the S13 housing that came with the 3.9:1 gears.

I would imagine different rolling diameters front to back would cause this issue (much like it would with ATESSA) as the traction control system uses the ABS sensors to read wheel speed and looks for a difference front to back.

If it's a RWD application then the only real cost difference is the $100 for an RB30E. The cost of everything else is pretty well the same whether you're building an RB25 or an RB30 bottom end. It only gets more expensive if it's a 4WD application due to having to purchase a 4WD adapter plate.

Easier to nab people for less than 5kmh over? The theory is that it enforces adherence to the speed limit for the whole section of controlled road, as opposed to only the point where a normal multinova is sitting. Then you could sue them..? The tend to be on stretches where there are no alternate routes, plenty of them all over the highways in NSW.

NIStune boards for RB20s are only about $220 if you don't want a license for the software, $50ish for a competent electronics tech to fit it, few hundred bucks for a tune. Don't bother with upgrading intake and exhaust manifolds, too much expense for little to no gain or as far as intake manifold goes, you will go backwards. The RB20 really needs those long runners. Stock exhaust manifold is good for up around 300rwkw too.

Sounds exactly like cold start.. it doesn't take long to get up to temp when driving so just baby it until it's up to temp. If you're trying to give it beans when it's cold then you have no mechanical sympathy and shouldn't be driving a skyline.

Yes it will handle 250rwkw but it would benefit hugely from a basic shift kit (even just doing the welsh plugs). I got a guy down in Bibra Lake to do mine (Global Auto Trans or something like that), cheap as and made a HUGE difference.

I concur. We made 365rwkw with a stock RB25DET head/cams/plenum/throttlebody (on a 30 bottom end).

Could the exhaust housings on those turbos have been too small to flow anymore?

Yeah mostly I think it is people not reading the manual and/or taking the time to set them up properly. It's not quite as simple as "I WANT 20psi, K.. GO!" Also, some think they can't handle huge boost and prefer to go for the Blitz dual solenoid units. The theory there is that the dual solenoids can handle fast ramping, huge boost setups better.

Takes a snapshot as you pass the first camera, takes a snapshot as you pass the second camera. If the time it took you to go from the first to the second camera is less than the average time at the speed limit (i.e. 10km @ 60kmh would take 6 minutes) then you get sent a fine.

ProfecB2 is a nice little unit, some people hate them but I've got one in each of my cars and very happy with them.