bubba

Took the 32gtst VLSD diff that came out of my skyline (replaced with a Nismo 2-way), chucked $10 worth of shims in there, paid my diff guy $200 to set it up for backlash (new centre in to different housing as I needed to keep the stock gears), had to use the GTSt axle flanges. Tight as fk LSD for bugger all (nothing compared to the Nismo diff!!), has worn in a bit and no longer carries on turning at low speed but still lights both wheels very predictably. If you're just shimming up a centre and putting it back in to the same housing, as long as you get the alignment shims back in the correct order, it shouldn't need the attention of a specialist. So, if you won that diff for $41.50, throw another $10 at it and you've got a cheap, tight, LSD

Speaking of bogans, I pulled up at a 24hr deli about 10pm last night and parked next to a VR commode. The driver of said car was listening to some crap music while waiting for his top bloke mate to exit the shop. I was sitting there idling waiting for my mrs to also exit the shop. As the faggots boyfriend starts to exit the shop, the top bloke cranks up the fast & the furious theme song, starts his 5L with no muffler with his foot flat to the floor, lets it rev to 4k and gives it a couple of pumps. His boyfriend gets in the car and they drive off singing TOO FAST TOO FURIOUS n shit as they make heaps of noise but go nowhere after pulling out on to the road. These seemed to be those new types of bogans that kind of think they're trendy with their flat brimmed hats, tatts, lip piercings, UNIT stickers etc. Oh and they were buying nangs (a whole sleeve) If I wasn't so belted relaxed, I might have said something but instead I just smirked and cranked some House of Pain.

BCP6ES-11 and gap down to 0.8 if you have issues. If your ignition system is good, gap them at 1.1

Bullshit. I've been running mostly in RWD since a couple of weeks before Powercruise. I have posted this up time and time again, if you refuse to believe, that's your problem but don't scaremonger. Rohan, you want to run something like 225/40 and 245/35 to try keep the rolling diameter the same.. if you know what tyres you will be using, do a bit of research and match up some front and rears. e.g. I run Federal 595's, if I was going to stagger I would go (depending on rim width) 255/35ZR18 90W 633mm OD and 225/40ZR18 88W 635mm OD I think ATTESA can handle up to 5% difference before it flips out. http://www.federaltyres.com.au/tyres/high-performance/595 18" 215/35ZR18 84W RF 606 7.0- 8.5 500 225/35ZR18 83W 613 7.5- 9.0 487 255/35ZR18 90W 633 8.5-10.0 600 265/35ZR18 93W 641 9.0-10.5 650 215/40ZR18 85W 629 7.0- 8.5 515 225/40ZR18 88W 635 7.5- 9.0 550 235/40ZR18 91W 643 8.0-9.5 615 245/40ZR18 93W 651 8.0- 9.5 650 225/45ZR18 91W 658 7.0- 8.5 615 245/45ZR18 96W 676 7.5-9.0 710 255/45ZR18 103Y XL 687 8.0- 9.5 875 235/50ZR18 101W XL 692 6.5- 8.5 825 255/55R18 109V XL 735 7.0- 9.0 1030

Clean and tidy engine bays isn't RICE. To me, R.I.C.E. stands for Race Inspired Cosmetic Enhancements.. So things like, pod filters, big gay atmo bov's, coil covers with stupid logos/designs, painting everything up when it's all stock componentry etc. I think R.I.C.E. is more generally found on the outside of a vehicle.. bigass wings, shopping lists, 6" cannons on 2" pipes, neons, graphics etc.

Will let the manifold go for $1000 + shipping if someone buys it by the weekend.

My bad, I left out the word difference. Everything else still applies.

Coilovers, swaybars, cradle lock bushes, adjustable castor and camber, strong clutch, decent brakes + more.

To tool up for one or two sets was too cost prohibitive, he had forked out for materials and tooling for a run of 10 or so I think. I was going to be trialling a set before he put them up for sale.

Inner and outer gear to suit an N1 pump housing and a splined crank collar to suit. I was going to trial a set but he got jerked around by his machinist who then went out of business and the guy lost several thousand dollars on the venture.

Wow there are some grossly inaccurate comments in here.. PRESSURE is related to flow, it is actually FORCE x AREA. The more pressure for a given area, the higher the flow (which is why when you wind the boost up you get more power.. turbo is flowing more air). Keep the flow the same but decrease the area, and the pressure goes up. Increase the area (LESS RESTRICTION), and you will flow more for same pressure. Turbos (like engines) are an AIR PUMP, in laymans terms, the bigger the PUMP the more air it will PUMP. A small pump moves LESS air for a given pressure than a larger pump. I'm not sure how I can simplify it any further.. suggest howstuffworks.com or some similar site.

Is Julian the guy in the quokka?

Yeah dropping to 3rd is like limp mode. I do shitloads of driving in my Stag, even on 1300km trips with a fairly high average speed, no issues like that. It's either not getting hot enough, getting too hot, or there is a solenoid or something dying.

Ask Charles

The radiator in Andreis car is a KOYORAD radiator from Japan, drops straight in, has the auto heat exchanger and most importantly, is 25mm instead of 16mm.

Oh it's a 34GTT auto?? Best solution is NIStune (I have one for my auto Neo'd Stagea).

I think what is trying to be said here is that a bigger turbo will flow more air for a given pressure, hence being a "bigger" turbo. A small turbo such as your stock one will flow considerably LESS at 10psi than a big turbo such as the T04Z (800hp turbo?) at 10psi. Our stock ECU's read air FLOW, not pressure. My guess as to what is happening is that the T04Z is pushing so much air that your stock ECU is throwing a fit, you've also most definitely maxed your airflow meter.

I saw it, for $400 fitted with a flush and a warranty, can't go wrong

With a core that's twice as thick as standard

It's a real pity the guy who was trying to make the splined gears got ripped off by his machinist

Have a look at a VL BT1 alternator

Due to a trader on another forum selling things ridiculously cheap, I will do the gate for $500.

Sorry guys, forgot to mention that if you want to buy the gate separate you will need to order a new weld on inlet flange from Turbosmart as Kyle (6boost) welded the flange to the manifold before he sent it to me. http://turbosmart1.cart.net.au/store/WG50+Inlet+Weld+Flange.html

Pics

BCP6ES Run them in my RB20, RB25/30 and RB25 Neo, basically we run them in all our RB's. For $20ea I reckon they're trying to sell you Iridiums or something.