bubba

It would be drawing air from the crankcase via the the turbo drain.. air that would be flowing against the oil trying to drain out of the turbo (could there be enough vacuum at high rpms to pull oil up in to the can??).. the oil is not under any pressure but neither is the oil trying to flow back from the head down the factory drains (the reason why we go to these breathing extremes).. It would also mean there is a constant vacuum (fed in part by the drain) in the can which probably wouldn't help the oil to drain. I dunno, I just wouldn't screw with it is all

Wut? If you do it properly, it's in 2WD straight away (4WD light flashing). If you didn't do it properly, after a few metres (before I get down my driveway to the edge of the road) the light comes on solid and the car is in a 50/50 split.. really not good to drive around like this! If you've been driving along in 4WD and pull over to put it in 2WD mode, it might take 30 seconds or so to relieve all the pressure.

Yes, if you block the PCV valve and the return line, you would just put little filters on the top of the catch can to run atmo. I'd be worried about introducing that kind of vacuum to the turbo oil return...

UNPLUG START THE CAR PUMP BRAKE PEDAL You have to pump the brake pedal as the key comes back to the ON position AFTER you have started the car, otherwise it just throws an error (the solid light).

It's a daughter board that is soldered in to the ECU that allows you to tune real time via the consult port.

Series 2 (Neo engines) ECU's are NIStunable, see www.nistune.com

Very odd because it even works on 33gtr's, how were you going about it? It works so well for me that I have put a switch on the centre console for it.

If you just wanted to see the F1 car is sounds like it would have been just as good, if not better to mosy on in to the city and watch them drop some skids.. To the traffic whingers, it can't have been anything near like the traffic in KL last week.. at least they can merge over there!

Go to a competent auto trans place, ask them to drop the valve body, remove the 1-2 and 2-3 accumulator pistons/springs and replace them with welsh plugs (I think they are 50mm). Shouldn't cost more than $200 including fresh fluid and makes a HUGE difference.

Keen to know this and also if they are the same or upgrade replacements for C34 Stageas.

It's for turning the front wheels off completely in case there is an issue with the 4WD system. I run mine in RWD pretty much all the time, my 4WD system still works perfectly when I want it to and in RWD it cops a lot of punishment.. plenty of burnouts, several laps of Barbagallos etc. Believe the hype, or believe the people that have proven it works.

SIGH Got back from KL yesterday.. I hope EB Games has copies left Oh and I've got several stags on the PSP that I should be able to bring over to the PS3.

3bar like all the other RB's but they have dual fuel pressure regs, the reasoning behind this I don't know.. last time I looked it appeared to have one on the IN and OUT of the rail

The utes are actually heavier by about 60kg.

I believe the point was to compare the identical setup from the 3L to the 3.4L...

Years ago I had a HZ Premier, it had one of those handbrakes that are on the door side of the drivers seat.. you pull it up and it goes back down again (as opposed to staying up like most handbrakes). When I picked it up for the first time I didn't realise the handbrake was still on (because it was down), a few kilometres down the road I had molten something dripping off each rear hub.

Didn't leave your handbrake on did you?

Flatshift ftw.

Jammers are designed to give you some more warning time, they jam the signal for a couple of seconds while throwing you an alert so you can get back down to speed, then it turns off so the cops can get a clean reading.

This thread delivers! P.S. LANDSCRIBBLE, I highly doubt there was any timing equipment involved

It's not online but I'll upload it when I get back from training.

Usually it is the shafts themselves that break, I've only heard of one case where the spline on the diff flange broke. Just to clarify, I didn't snap anything, I was just mixing and matching parts to get the LSD to bolt up in place of the open centre.

Good!

I doubt it, the rear track is ~50mm wider so I don't see the axles (driveshafts) from a 32gtst fitting. They are thicker but I used the flanged stubs that go in the diff, not the driveshafts.. thicker/more splines to suit the 32s VLSD centre but bolt up to the stock driveshafts.