bubba

The older guy

There is no centre diff, there is a front and rear with a clutched transfer case to join them when required. You need to keep matching ratios front and rear. Stagea ratios are taller, meaning you will trade acceleration for top end (minimal, 4.3 to 4.08 isn't a huge jump). Personally I would keep the 4.3 you already have, it will help get future bigger turbos on to boost sooner.

My Pro78 has saved me from handhelds, incar, multinovas and lidar (even have a video of it picking up the lidar from 185m away). I have 16 driving infringements and 3 charges on my driving record (according to the cops that put the yellow sticker on my 32 ) but in the last 3 years since I got my RD, I haven't had any.. I'm actually back up to a full license now. They do work.

Wouldn't the Microtech have the ability to ign cut like the BeeR does?

Steve is a good bloke to deal with and very knowledgable in regards to Skylines.

Sweet, will start sussing it all out properly when I get back from KL. Looks like a fun little event that's for sure

Driveline wise, use the sump/diff off your RB20 and whichever gearbox you want, much of a muchness. But +1 on the 25neo.

Hmm maybe it's because I was trying to get it out with the highbeam still attached. When I build up the motivation to try again, I will report back

Have a search as I think the RB30E cable fits.

NIStune. /thread

What diffs are in these things? Is there a 350Z factory LSD that might fit? Ditching the open centre and swapping in the old shimmed up factory LSD from the 32 in to my wagon made a phenomal difference. Cheap and extremely effective.

Aftermarket injectors are getting cheaper, secondhand drop in items for 33's pop up on the forums all the time. Turbo won't be excellent, but will still be fun and make the numbers while you strip down the RB30E ready for the bottom end swap (it's not that hard, I did mine in a weekend - do a lot of research and purchasing before you commence though.. head gasket, vct mod, oiling mods). Has been known to fit with a spacer but most people go the 3076 as a good match for the rb25. Maybe look for a .63 rear.. If the car you're looking is forged already, with good tuning and maintenance the bottom end should live a long healthy life - giving you lots of time to build a bulletproof 30 bottom end Spare parts wise, heaps of kids crash them - parts are everywhere and reasonably priced. Lots of stuff on the forums. Summary: Do it. Skylines are much more fun than VL's! And have a good search of this site, it's a fountain of knowledge!

Series 1 or 2? I managed to get one head light out but really should have taken the front bar off (fair bit of bending of plastic stuff lol), it was such a mission I cracked the shits and gave up (after putting the headlight back in).

Yes, correct.

They're a pretty solid base to start with, normal things like a decent clutch and a well maintained engine, 300rwkw daily driven isn't too much to ask. About all that will swap over is the turbo and fuel pressure reg, ECU might if it's a wirein standalone but pretty sure injectors are significantly different enough to not warrant it. Also, if you have forged the bottom end in the VL, keep it for a future 25/30 conversion

OK, I apologise for venturing in to the V area but here goes First off I would say get some new tyres, I run 595SS's for street duties and find they are a very good $$ v grip solution. They hang on well in the wet and when they let go, it's very progressive. Secondly, get over to the WA section.. you just missed an RAC (formerly AHG) skidpan day but they are organised regularly. Prices tend to average ~$75 per person and you get an excellent opportunity to put your car through its' paces. Last time I was out, they didn't mind 2nd gear clutch drops and a lot of sideways - as long as you aren't driving like a dickhead, they are reasonably lax. Don't think they have the facility to wet the skidpan though.

lol I don't know the car but I think I can imagine how loud it is The screamer on the GTS4 wouldn't be any louder than Pauls' screamer was.

Hmmk sweet, would suck to get kicked out but I'll just blame it on you Paul

The board itself is about $280, a single user license for the NIStune software is $200 I think (you don't need this, it's only if you want to be able to fiddle with stuff yourself, or ask me to do it ) - both purchased straight from NIStune. Carton of beer to a competent electronics technician to install the board. Then find your tuner of choice (I can recommend Hyperdrive and Allstar Garage) and pay by the hour for tuning. Shouldn't take too long as it's pretty much stock.

It's only interesting over 4k needs a 3L

You sure they won't mind a screamer? The regs reckon they'll kick you out

Excellent! Cheers for the reply

P.S. threshold is not hyphenated.

I doubt the strut brace will go back on over the gate pipe..