bubba

Search is your friend.. there are writeups on how to modify the Navara sender.

If I could get a single scroll, T3 flanged, non-WG housing on the 600-1000hp turbo, I'd have one.. but all the non-WG housings seems to be twin scroll and I don't want to have to get a new manifold made.

wut?

^^ lol The tiptronic box is far superior than the earlier auto. Put a shift kit in it and it's excellent. As for getting a Neo ECU to run a normal 25.. you would need to find out everything that is different sensor and wiring wise, and change it to suit the Neo. OR Just get a s2 halfcut and ditch your crappy normal 25 in favour of the Neo

No. If you can't be bothered then just throw a Navara sender in and live with the speedo being out. I got away without modifying mine because the 17T cog on the Navara sender suited my 3.9:1 diff gears quite nicely.

LOL xtrail more fun than a stagea??

I get over 550km/tank on country runs and I've got 2x20L jerry cans that get strapped in the back, I also plan my route around BP98 availability

Was that fuel sitting around in the tank why the engine was getting built? Do you use 98 from dodgy non-BP servos?

+11ty to all that. With coilovers, adjustable arms and bigger swaybars, my wagon handles like a heavier version of my skyline. All the turn in and transition characteristics are there, you just have to remember it's like 500kg heavier so things happen just a little bit slower.

+1 for the 044 in tank, that's how we run them in our 32's.

Try resetting the ECU before jumping to conclusions. When removing ECU's, even with the battery disconnected, if I didn't bleed the residual current from the system (by hitting the brake pedal) the TCM would throw up wierd errors.

Sounds like you need a FMIC and a retune. Get a tune.

Backing plates are different between S13 and R32gtst. I used an S13 auto diff to change my ratios from 4.3 to 3.9, my Nismo 2-way centre fit in the S13 housing and I used the 32gtst axles. Where do you get that from? I'd be more worried about snapping axles with a locker. If you're that worried, fork out for a proper mechanical diff. My shimmed VLSD is going strong in my heavy assed wagon and it's nowhere near as harsh as the 2-way in the skyline but seems just as predictable (not so much lock on decel tho). As far as changing ratios, the crown wheel has to match the pinion gear.... you don't HAVE to change the housing but if you don't, you still need to change the pinion gear over which means new bearings and seals.

Shim the stock VLSD centre up, will cost <$20 and there's a tutorial up in the DIY section. I shimmed up the old VLSD out of my 32gtst and chucked it in the Stagea, was really tight for a couple of weeks but it's loosened up to the point where I barely feel it when full lock backing out of a parking space, but still lights both wheels predictably. I removed the standard shims and put a 1.49mm shim on each side of the VLSD unit. If you're shimming the centre out of your car, you can just slap it back in. If you're shimming a centre from another car and putting it in your housing (like I did, 32gtst VLSD centre in to Stagea open centre housing), you need to set up the backlash.. I paid my diff guy $200 to do that as I'm not geared up for it and it's my daily so didn't want to fk anything. If you want to change ratios, you need the whole housing as the crown wheel matches the pinion gear..

^^ LOL

That's rather abnormally laggy for a 25 turbo on a 20.. I had a series 1 25 turbo on my RB20 and that was making 12psi by 3500rpm..

Yeah I did notice them when I made my custom plenum, as they are spiral-like I figured they were to help distribute air to each runner..

Vigilante cruise anyone?

Take the back cover off and it should say on the crown wheel somewhere what the ratio is (i.e. 43:11 meaning 43 teeth on the crown wheel and 11 on the pinion = 3.9:1)

Are they custom made Roy? is there anything else that needs to be done to run them?

I accidentally managed to get one on footage, some quick maths told me it was 185m away when it detected it.

Troll got trolled

Currently a Haltech e11v2 (piggy backed), but my wagoon is series 2, have a NIStune board sitting at home waiting to go in when I have cash for a tune and find the motivation to extract the Haltech.. that bit is going to be far from fun Auto series 1's you will probably be fine as the TCM is seperate to the ECU whereas in my series 2 the TCM is part of the ECU. That being said, with a mild shift kit it doesn't seem to really care that the Haltech doesn't talk back. Before the shift kit though, it was terrible.