bubba

In R33's the TCM and the ECU are separate, R34 they are in the same unit. When you use a non-auto ECU it doesn't know to receive signals from the TCM to cut timing when the gearbox wants to shift gears. This is pretty much what happened with the Haltech in my wagon, it would flare horribly on the 1-2 change and not go in at high rpm unless I lifted the throttle or bounced the limiter. Got a shift kit installed and it is phenomally better, it doesn't care that the ECU isn't cutting timing, it just GTF in there.

Will have a look through the Mrs' photos and send you whatever she got.

You won't get 0/100 split with a TSC in the 33. The ATTESA setup in my wagon is pretty much 33gtr and I found the 2WD mode method in the 33gtr manual which also works on the Stagea. Behind the drivers kick panel is a single wire plug that when disconnected and the key turned to the ON position, makes the pump run flat out so you can get under and crack the bleed nipples to bleed the system. HOWEVER, if you pump the brake pedal 5 times after the key gets to the ON position (if you want to drive around then you need to start the car, as the key comes back to the ON position pump the brake pedal 5 times) the 4WD light will start flashing to let you know you're in 2WD mode. I have tested this on the hoist and on the street and there is definitely NO preload on the transfer case, 100% RWD. I have since hooked this wire to a switch in my centre console and it provides for lots of RWD super happy fun time, if you would like a demonstration then shoot me a PM

Hyperdrive charged me ~$220 to fit my 044 internally and that included them supplying all the fittings/filter required and rewiring it. It's what they run on their drift cars and my mate has the same setup supporting well over 500rwhp.

OMG does he have an online store?

By blocking the pipe from cam cover to plenum, you have effectively block the PCV valve. You only do this if you are running your catch can venting to atmosphere (i.e. NOT returning to the intake). The PCV valve is designed to suck air from the cam cover when the engine is under vacuum to relieve any pressure accumulated in the crankcase while on boost (that's why it is called a Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve). The two main way of hooking up a "catch can" are: 1) run both cam cover breathers to "catch can" then "catch can" to intake pipe, leave PCV connected 2) block PCV, run both cam cover breathers to "catch can" then vent to atmosphere via a small filter on the can (this is illegal but prevents any oil mist getting in to the engine) Really, in option 1 you should be running an "oil/air separator" as opposed to just a "catch can".. a separator is baffled and filled with a medium (such as steel wool) to aid the separation of oil and air so that the air that is returned to the intake doesn't contain oil.

You only block the PCV valve if venting to atmosphere.

When you get home (if the car is still at your place), can you have a look and report back whether the half shaft flanges are 5x1 or 6x1 and whether the tailshaft>diff connection is 4 or 6 bolts? Cheers!

If it's an R33 RB25DET then probably just a bit of mapping difference to suit the auto. In R33's and early the TCM is separate to the ECU but R34 (and my wagon) the TCM is part of the ECU.

I find that highly unlikely... you didn't do it yourself?

Sorry jet2nv, can't help there but I feel I must report on the results of my shimming.. Now the car was originally open centre but I did have this diff in my 32 before I replaced it with a 2-way. When it was in the 32 it was getting tired and liked to open up. Now shimmed up and in the wagon, it's awesome! Lots of fun times since installing a week ago, is gradually getting less hrash and I have been punishing it quite severely. Time will tell how the shims wear but hopefully it doesn't start opening up anytime soon. Excellent bang for buck mod, cost me $200 more than it should but that's because I was swapping the carrier in to a new housing, I felt I should get it set up properly as it's my daily driver.

Interesting..

I really hated how far away the shifter was from the wheel with the cut one

That's dodgier than any of my electrical work!

WA Suspensions.

Wut?

When I bought my 32 the previous owner had cut down the stick and it was horrible. Got myself a C's shifter when I still had the RB20 box and reused it on the RB25 box, have driven a car with a Nismo short shifter and it's got nothing on the C's.

Paul, did you swap in a 33R subframe? I scored a free R230 (out of a z32) and hopefully some matching axles, will be interesting figuring out how to squeeze it in to the 32gtst subframe.. Should be a decent upgrade if I ever smash what's in there Also keen to see how big these axles are, they have the same 6x1 flange as GTR's (don't have a GTR axle handy to measure but the PCD looks the same). If 32R axles bolt up then I may have to source a 32R subframe, if not then maybe z32 hubs or modify the standard ones.

Not sure with the S14 setup but my Nismo centre for the 32gtst came with new shafts, from the factory the shafts are one long one short, the Nismo diff came with two new factory short shafts. If you can go look at the diff, try take a short 32gtst shaft with you and see if the splines are the same, if they are then just run two short 32gtst shafts, if not maybe try find suitable shafts. Depends how much it is.. You can mix'n'match a lot of Nissan stuff, I just replaced the standard open centre in my Stagea with the old (shimmed up) LSD out of the 32. Had to use 32gtst shafts (both are 5x1 but the open centre was smaller diameter) and transfer the ABS teeth from the Stag shafts. In my 32gtst, I put the 32gtst Nismo 2-way centre in to an S13 housing as I wanted the 3.9:1 gearing.

+11ty to all that

The TP load limit values in the stock maps have a higher threshold up until about 5000rpm when it tapers down and is similar to R32 and R33. R32 handles more in the mid range than the R33. If you're reaching the load limit, NIStune it already.

The general theory is the RB20 head doesn't flow any more than the RB30E head so no benefit and the cost of modifying puts it further into the not worth it area. The easiest solution for an R32GTSt is to go with an RB25DE (R32, non-VCT) head as every bolt-on and sensor from the RB20 will swap over. If you go with an RB25DET (R33, VCT) head then you'll pretty much need to do an RB25 conversion.

Upgrading to an RB25 turbo won't need bigger injectors or afm. On stock RB20 turbo mine was making ~200rwhp on 14psi untuned. http://www.nistune.com/ but seeing that you're in Japan there should be a multitude of tuners that can remap the RB20 ECU!

+11ty for coppers I run NGK BCP6ES

Guess I'll have to chuck a VB* sticker on mine to balance out the universe. *Note: I do not drink Visitors Beer, that's for visitors.