bubba

+11ty Actually, you could even be slightly pre-emptive about it.. ring up and make a report about someone driving dangerously and impersonating a police officer.

We don't take kindly to people that don't take kindly round 'ere.

Picked up some 33gtr swaybars last night, will chuck them in on the weekend and pull the diff out to be dropped to my diff guy on Tuesday... SkidWagon is getting close.. BRING ON POWERCRUISE!

*sigh* I'll be in Margaret River for a paintball tournament

It's a FWD with a rear diff tacked on..

Riced up with drug money? sounds like Paulio from teh Block!

Or looked in the quokka?

Bah! cheers Duncan

*frown* So a rail spacer and a bigger top oring?

If I had the room I'd grab them all

Damn! I was hoping you would forge the way for me Picking up a set of GTR injectors real cheap this week so will investigate the differences, fingers crossed they will fit somehow! I only need a little bit more fuel so don't want to fork out hundreds of dorrars for an aftermarket solution >.<

Ashfield.. Pauly is more of a bogan what with living in Ellenbrook!

The fact that it's an RB30 doesn't really have anything to do with cost unless it's going in a 4WD. Rebuilding costs are rebuilding costs, if you're building an engine for a RWD application then the difference between building a 25 you have or turning it in to a 30 is $50-100 for the RB30E. If you're putting it in a 4WD (GTS4/GTR) then you're up for the cost of the sump adapter. It's the actually rebuilding in general that people don't realise costs time and money

Those 2 welsh plugs are all that I had done to mine as we didn't have the info. re: what holes to drill and what else to remove. My gearbox guy had done plenty of 33's but no 34 boxes, they are a wee bit different as there is an extra couple of solenoids.

+1

I'll have some.

Yeah I mean put a crank collar on so you have the long oil pump drive like 33/34gtr cranks. Personally I'm welding the snout of my crank and machining back to suit my specific gears as opposed to using a generic collar that's toleranced to suit a variety of gears. Some people don't like the idea of welding the crank though so it's an each to their own thing. The reason I'm going down that path is that I firmly believe the common destruction of gears is due to the poor tolerancing between drive and gears.

+1 for the 30DET, you're rebuilding anyway so go splash $100 on an RB30E, buy pistons and rods to suit and longnose the crank, use your 25 head and the cams you were planning on. Go the GT35R with .82 (minimum) or 1.06 housing. If you go the 30 make sure you let Kyle know it's a 30 in a 32gtst so the manifold will fit. He'll also want you to get a 50mm gate.

Drop the cat and see what happens, I reckon the guts of the cat will fall out when you remove it.

I've had a skyline for a while now

RB20DET and RB25DE (R32 - non VCT) are hydraulic lifter heads aswell..

I'd be more worried about using them for street duties being that they are ally/alloy.

I am looking to do a variety of brackets but probably not going to happen for a little while. What kicked it off was trying to squeeze bigger rotors on to the wagon and the brackets I had for my 32 didn't fit on the wagons' 4wd hubs. More than happy to share what I have learned though If the kit you are looking at is to suit 32GTR (non-brembo), but you want to use 32gtst calipers then yes, I'll put money on having to machine the inside of the calipers. The reason being that the 32GTR caliper are to suit 296mm rotors and thus have longer "legs" than the 32GTSt calipers which are to suit a 280mm rotor.

from nismo.com.au STAGE 1 BRAKE UPGRADE KIT FOR SKYLINE R32-33 GTS-T FRONT UPGRADE KIT INCLUDES 324MM R34 GTR DBA 4000 SERIES ROTORS, HEAT TREATED AND KANGAROO PAW SLOTTED. BILLET ALLOY ANNODISED ADAPTERS & HIGH TENSILE GRADE 12 ALLEN KEY BOLTS UTILIZING THE FACTORY CALIPERS. PRICE: $850 FRONT ONLY Adapters and high tensile bolts and washer without discs $350 Two peice curved vane rotors with adapters $1195

It depends on the adapter bracket, most are to suit 33gtst/32gtr calipers. I have laid out the geometry for 32gtst calipers but have changed jobs twice in the last few months and as such haven't had the time or money to get prototypes cut up Edit: I'm not sure what the offset of those 350Z rotors is but the 350Z rotors (290mmish) that I have on my Stagea are a completely different offset to skyline rotors (they suit the series 2 Stagea calipers). The rotors I'm running on my skyline are 33GTR items and this is what I would suggest you look for.