bubba

AFAIK the C34 is an R33 chassis up to the C-pillar/rear seats, from there instead of the floorpan heading up towards the parcel shelf it head backwards. Why would the engineer a new chassis for a relatively small run of parts-bin-special vehicles?

Wow what a horribly misleading title!

Nice comment, much appreciated for its' wealth of relevant information

4WD light flashes constantly in 2WD mode. If it's on SOLID then that is an error (like you unplugged plug and forgot to hit the brake pedal).

I would upgrade both swaybars but here is my general rule of thumb that I have discovered coming from RWD Nissans to 4WD Nissans.. RWD: Front swaybar is bigger than the rear. Bigger/stronger/thicker on front will induce understeer, bigger stronger/thicker on rear will induce oversteer. 4WD: Front swaybar is small than the rear. I see this as being to reduce some of the push or understeer that having the front wheels driven gives. The thicker rear sway bar makes the car more taily and helps it turn in better. * I could be wrong, but these are the assumptions I have reached thus far. IMO, get adjustable all round then spend some time on the skid pan figuring out the settings to suit your car and driving style. On my 32 I run the biggest whiteline swaybars I could get, front and back both set on their hardest settings.

It works 100%. It releases ALL pressure from the transfer case, if there was any load on the clutch plates then the front wheels would engage. I have even tested on the hoist, there is not even a hint of movement from the front wheels. If there was any pressure on the clutch plates then one would assume the front wheels would start turning, even a little bit, but that isn't the case. I'm getting sick of posting up THAT IT WORKS. We have even had an RS4V on the dyno using this method and the transfer case isn't broken. I beat up on my wagon at Powercruise all weekend in 2WD and my transfer case isn't broken, 4WD still works 100%, when I want it to. Please stop scaremongering and propagating rumours. If you don't believe me that it works, DO YOUR OWN EXPERIMENTS. If you're too scared to, then don't bother, forget even thinking about it and enjoy your 4wd for what it is.

Auto

It's my track hack.. if I have to pump the guards and bolt on some flares.. whatever it takes!

I want your rims for my 32!

Gearbox crossmember, tailshaft and speedo drive. If you have spare coin then you might as well chuck a decent clutch in there now because there will be so much super happy fun time with a bigger engine in the 32 that I envisage you destroying the stock clutch pretty quickly

It is a tight squeeze as our tunnels are meant for the RB20 box which is a lot smaller, but it IS doable. There are also plenty of people about with 25Neo/box conversions in their 32's.

No, well it hasn't damaged mine yet. This is the factory prescribed procedure to put the system in 2WD mode. It is not the same as just pulling the fuse.

Ask them WHY it won't fit.. because physically, I believe the only difference is the slave cylinder/how it bolts up as 34GTT is a pull type clutch.

No can do.

I don't have a V35 but I've put carpc's in my 32 and my Stagea. I use the VoomPC barebones setup from mini-box.com, chuck a locally sourced stick of ram, hdd and dvd drive in there and run 7" non-motorised in dash touchscreen (removed it from the 32 while it's off the road and put it in the wagon), when the 32 is back on the road I'll most likely get one of those USB touchscreens that are available now.

No can do, got training.

Fair call, but doing that in 2WD will help the clutch last longer than doing it in 4WD Me, I need a bigger stall so it will spin up earlier

You need to take me for a drive Tim! Keen to see what the spool/response is like compared to my highflow.

Pretty much. Nah, series 1 RB25 will take more boost, a Neo turbo will make a bit more power.

New clutch??

I have posted it up a number of times... But here goes again.. Locate the "air bleed" wire behind the drivers kick panel, it's a plug with a single wire either side (usually green socket, white plug). Disconnect it. Start car. As key comes back to the ON position, within 10 seconds, depress brake pedal 5 times, 4WD light will start flashing to indicate you are in 2WD mode. To go back to 4WD mode, turn car off, reconnect plug and off you go. I have hooked mine to a switch in the centre console.

Max power while the system is operating normally is 95% to the rear. This is why you can't just pull the fuse to go in to 2WD mode, there is a procedure and it works, 100% RWD. The system is pretty much based on the R33 GTS4 system, runs 5% preload to the front and splits more torque as it feels it's needed.

With a Stagea you can have RB25DET RWD manual, RB25DET 4WD manual (both series 1) or in series 2 you get RB25DET NEO with triptronic auto and 4WD. Then you've got the 260RS's which are full 33gtr drivelines. I highly rate Stageas and I don't even have a family! Excellent practical daily driver that responds to mods just like skylines do and eats up the miles on long trips, love it.

Hmm the last major problem I had was a few years ago, it wasn't as catastrophic as destroying gearboxes etc but it almost left me stranded (first and only time with the skyline or the wagon), snapped the clutch fork pivot on the way home from a cruise.. fun times starting in gear and rev matching the rest of the way home

+11ty Very good report!