bubba

If series 2 RS4S is the same as series 2 RS4V, then the 350Z rotors will fit.

^^ what he said You can give your auto a bit of a mild shift kit if you are competent enough to remove the valvebody and know how to fit welsh plugs. I had my gearbox guy do it to mine, remove the 1-2 and 2-3 accumulator pistons (basically sprung pistons that are there to dampen the fluid flow and give a nice soft shift) and replace with welsh plugs. The next level up is removing balls and springs and drilling holes bigger to increase flow which is pretty much what the MV autos stage 2 kit does I believe. The welsh plugs in the accumulators actually made a huge difference, especially on the 1-2 shift. It doesn't flare any more at all and while it is a little harsh, it's quite acceptable for my daily driver. No more piss farting around, tell it to change, it changes and just GTF in there. Cost me bugger all, about an hour or so labour and some fluid.

Fitted some RDA954S rotors and some Greenstuff pads on the weekend. The RDA954 rotors definitely fit s2 RS4V, anyone having fitment problems, make sure the calliper is clear of the rotor (use a screwdriver for leverage, make sure the rotor is nipped up with a wheel nut so it is held tight) before tightening the calliper bolts.

Fitted some RDA954S rotors and some Greenstuff pads on the weekend.

The shift control unit (or TCM) it part of the ECU in S2 C34 autos. I would suggest a dodgy earth somewhere.

I had a go at removing a headlight so I could install mine with the ballast where the factory one used to be.. major head fk, have to take the front bar off, cbf, gave up for now

Should have come to the tournament at the Red Bull Air Race.. we had the several hundred bikini clad women heading to the photo shoot at the bell tower wander past.. needless to say everyone dropped their guns and their jaws!@ We needed them agin on the weekend and then I would have been in heaven.. paintball cars AND boobs!!

Experience of what? from what I can gather it's your experience of being told what to buy by people trying to sell you stuff.

I was under the impression is goes on the back of the power steering pump, and bridges the OUTLET to HICAS solenoid to the RETURN from HICAS solenoid..

Just like CP pistons are shit?

Certainly would have got my attention!!

Yeah I'm taking teh wagon

So who else is going?!?

89mph at the 1/8th mile..

I can only find a couple of GTR ones in Australia, ranging from $440-$760!

You sure you're not making 11ty gazillion killerwasps and it was actually 189mph?

How do you set a bleed valve to peak at 19psi and trail off to 18psi??

I'm not a guru but that does seem like a pretty low mph.. I ran a 13.9 @ 103mph in my 32 (183rwkw, street trim, no traction in 1st or 2nd)

Thanks for reiterating what everyone has already said.

I only use gaskets on the head>manifold, manifold>turbo and turbo>dump. Every other exhaust join I just use the grey exhaust goo.

Have seen 365rwkw through a standard RB20 throttlebody. There is also no point in having a throttle body that is bigger than your cooler piping. Really large throttlebodies can result in drivability and tuning issues.

I ran one of the Turbotech T's for over a year on a stock RB20 and RB20+25 turbo, good pieces of kit and excellent bang for your buck. I now run ProfecBII's in both my cars. Had no trouble controlling the violent onset of boost an RB30 + RB25 turbo gives, and has no problems on the wagon with the highflow turbo either.

The 3L + T04z'd GTS4 I referred to early, keeps up with R1's.. gives them a right fright

Yeah his was making ~400rwhp with an unopened RB20!

The fan doesn't sit flush with the radiator..