bubba

Wasn't having a dig at all and I'm not talking about it pulling air from the front of the car around the radiator but more that without a shroud it will just pull engine bay air from between the front of the fan and the radiator, and blow it out the back of the fan, as opposed to drawing air through the radiator. On a track you have lots of airflow (less in a drift car because you're sideways but if you have nice big, properly designed air dams it will be fine), on the street, as you said in stop start stuff, it's going to be terrible and the temps will go through the roof! IMO you're (and not meaning you Elite, more of a generic term ) better off running the stock radiator with a shrouded fan than a bigger radiator with a non shrouded fan. Drifting or dragging with a big radiator and non shrouded fan will be ok as the water is just a giant heat sink, couple of laps or a run down the strip, then cooling off in the pits, no worries! On a street car, as soon as that radiator gets heat soaked, the non shrouded fan is going to do 2/10's of fk all to cool things down, it will just move hot air about the engine bay. If the engine fan won't fit, then get some thermos with a nice shroud.

Why would the fan draw air through the radiator when it is much easier to suck the air from AROUND the radiator (the path of least resistance)? There is a reason that you shroud fans, particularly when you want to draw air THROUGH a heat exchanger. Anyone advocating NOT using a shroud, should share their crack with the rest of us.

The fan will be practically useless without a shroud.

Always check the gap, don't just assume they are 0.8mm because the box says so. I run BCP's in both my Nissans.

So this started happening after the oil change? what weight did you use? Drop the oil and put some decent stuff in there..

I found it trolling the Targa West Photos site, was looking for photos of my team in the paintball cage as we had one of the Targa photographers come over for a looksee and a few happy snaps Awesome photo of your car though John, looks like you're going way faster than 60kph!

It wouldn't be there if you weren't meant to use it.. I use tiptronic pretty much everywhere and I drive hard, even with all the flaring that used to go on on the 1-2 change, when I had the mild shift kit put in, the guy said the box was squeaky clean inside!

There is no wear put on the gearbox by sitting there on the brake in gear (unless your foot is also on the accel ) as the torque converter isn't locked up and is just sitting there spinning fluid around.

Average <300hp Good 300-500hp Big >500hp

The N means 4WD.. that's why R32 GTS4's are HNR32 and my 4WD Stagea is WGNC34 (no WGN does NOT mean wagon)

Yes, that's the way I wired mine in as the Neo only has 3 wires aswell.

A 2-piece will be inherently stronger as the torque is applied over two shorter lengths as opposed to a single long length. Has anyone heard of anyone snapping a stock tailshaft? I know uni's and centre bearings flog out but I can't recall a stock tailshaft letting go..

I've squeezed 245's onto 33gtst rims but I wouldn't advise it, handled like shit, was purely for burnouts but did use them at a skidpan day and it was horrible.

There's a 32 GTS4 4door here in Perth sporting a 26 and T04Z, makes close to 600hp @ treads, owner is on the forums infrequently.

Johns' (Appealing) car checking one of the stages during Targa West on the weekend.

Fitted adjustable rear upper arms on Saturday (had them sitting there destined for the 32). With a lot less camber at the back and some toe adjustments all round, she drives like a dream!! Also has significantly more traction (tested in 2WD in the wet yesterday ) Pulled the LSD centre out of the old 32 diff yesterday and chucked a couple of bigger thrust washers in there, as soon as I can get a day off work I'll book her in to have the LSD centre swapped in (don't want to do it myself as it will need to be shimmed for backlash).

The arms you sold me for the 32 went on the Stagea on Saturday, less camber and some toe adjustments have made a rather nice difference! And yeah Stageas are a big mix and match of parts, each variant (2WD auto, 2WD manual, 4WD auto) seems to be different.

You only block the PCV valve if running an atmo. catch can setup.

Bleed valves don't have any inherent problems and neither do EBC's. As stated above, the advantage of an EBC is easy setting of levels, multiple level settings and the ability to hold the wastegate shut until a certain boost level. This keeping of the gate shut, helps spool the turbo up faster but has to be finely tuned to be effective. Too early and there is no benefit, too late and it will spike.

It never slipped while in gear, there was just a massive flare from 1st to 2nd if the engine was making heaps of torque.. i.e. if it was on boost over 4000rpm it wouldn't want to go in to gear unless I backed off the gas or let it bounce the limiter once. Now it just gets the fuck in there! Shifting is more positive and it would probably chirp 2nd if I didn't have 4WD. Put it in 2WD and it's highly amusing in the wet, as soon as it comes on boost, click 2nd and it shifts instantly then it's lunchbox super happy fun sideways time. The 1-2 shift is harsher at slow speeds and I had to relearn how to drive.. I used to lift the gas on the 1-2 shift but if I do that now I nearly hit the car in front as it lurches hard. It's not as full on harsh as say an MV Auto shift kit where the valvebody galleries are modified, but it's a very positive shift, no fucking around. I would say it has improved economy somewhat but more importantly, it improved drivability tremendously! Oh and when in tiptronic, the downshift to 2nd is INSTANT. Edit: shifts may be nicer if you have stock ECU.. I have a Haltech that doesn't talk to the TCM so the ECU doesn't cut ignition when it comes time to shift, I also think that is why mine had so much trouble trying to shift into 2nd.

I got what you might call maybe a "Stage 1" shift kit in my wagon (same gearbox but with a transfer case on the back). Basically I took it to this guy in Bibra Lake who talked it up and then it turned out he hadn't seen one of these boxes before. So not knowing what galleries did what (there's more solenoids and valves than a 33 box) he did what he could, which was remove the accumulator plungers on the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts, and replaced them with welsh plugs. It's made a huge difference, mostly on the 1-2 shift, I used to have to shift either early or bounce it off the limiter otherwise it would just slip (incidentally, even with all the slippage, he said the inside of the box was squeaky clean). He didn't charge me much as we didn't achieve what we set out to achieve but to be honest, I'm not sure I would want any firmer shifts in my daily.. the place is called Global Automatics in Bibra Lake.

The series 2 (B) box has more solenoids and a completely different valve body layout aswell.

I assume he wants to make sure it's not running lean with the extra boost..

If you want a real push in the back, 3L + T04Z + 4WD = win