Busky2k

Least the BMW's looked better then I have to admit.

Theres nothing to clarify really. You need to drain and refil it 3 times, with at least 5 km worth of driving in between changes to make sure the new fluid mixes with the old. You'll notice say for example, 3L comes out of the pan but the manual says the tranny holds 8L. Its same with almost all trannies out there, old or new. So.. that 4L you bought is definitely not enough unfortunately. You need another 2 bottles to do it correctly. Btw Matic D is very close to Dexron III (Transmax Z is rated Dexron III). I have had no problems using Dexron III products in Nissans and some factory manuals also suggest Dexron III if Matic D is not available. Also my ignorance suggests that Matic D is not synthetic (as if Nissan would go synthetic for anything from factory!) Also pulling the tranny lines won't do the convertor. It'll only drain whats in the pan, even less so because there will be some left underneath the oil pickup. Cheers.

Just by draining the pan you've only drained out less than *half* of the total capacity because the rest of the dirty oil is in the torque convertor/galleries. You need to do several succesive changes to do a complete flush, and this is the same with 95% of auto trannies out there. I'd just do 3 changes over 3 weekends to make life easiest.

The Discopototo is the GT28RS, and its internally wastegated. Anyways.. 38mm should do the job!

However you will find that say, Mobil 1 10W30 will be significantly thinner than the Mobil 1 5W50 at all temperatures above -10C. Don't let the W rating fool ya!

Holy cow man you got 1.5bar at 3750rpm.. thats pretty nuts. Looks like the perfect combo for the RB25!!

Man why do all these threads always end up talking about the R32 and Bathurst FFS. It doesn't have any relevance anymore so who gives a shit really. If anyone wants a fair comparison, why don't we get a 4 door Jap car and then start comparing. I know for starters I'd be caught dead in a Camry or Maxima. And as much as I am anti-Holden, I'd rather take a VE SS over an Accord Euro (which incidentally is made in Thailand anyway) to be honest.

Needs a tow? Sounds like it needs more than just an ordinary wheel alignment? You can DIY if you want..

A search would be a good start. However what are you planning to do with the car? Is it a pure streeter? What are your mods?

Reduce the chance of the block cracking? Hmmm I can't really see that happening. I reckon the thing will fall apart long before then!

Nice name for the car. Now what about the missing (unknown) story of its mistreatment and torture during its childhood days in Japan!? lol OK j/k!

Sorry yes 5W50. Same thing really. Still nice and thick. The M1 10W30 won't break down in an RB. Its fully synthetic PAO based oil so it can handle the stress without breaking a sweat. Hell Nissan's OEM oil is 7.5W30 mineral stuff so if that can do the job... Your average RB doesnt run any hotter than any other engine, why would you say that? The turbo is water cooled anyway so the turbo isn't as hard on the oil as the days of old.

No. Noone has to get a wideband. Just take it to a tuner and he does all the tuning with his wideband. Done.

With gauges its a general rule of you get what you pay for. So for an electronic one especially, don't cheap out on those dodgy Defi fakes flooding the market.

You need a wideband to tune the PowerFC. The "4 wire" O2 sensors are the narrowband type, just with an inbuilt heating element. Totally useless for tuning for anything but stoichiometric AFRs.

If your car is relatively stock and doesn't use much oil, I'd go the 10W30 because its thinner. The 15W50 is more meant for cars that use oil/hits the track etc.

I have an Innovate Motorsports LM1. Great unit, just a bit big but they have since released an all in one gauge unit. All you have to do is get the bung welded in your dump pipe and away you go.

So.. whats the plan? haha

Man thats one ugly as dog balls GT-T.

So what the hell does one do when they wanna upgrade injectors??

Damn some of you guys are using some serious fuel huh. Its just as bad as a Gen III commodore which is twice the size!! I'd say get your O2 sensors checked and try keeping off boost when taking off the lights if you can.

Yeah I've noticed with stainless dumps vs cast you can hear the turbo starting to spool for sure. This is when I've swapped stock exhausts to aftermarket and vice versa.

Sounds a bit silly but if you wanna test how well an ECV will work, just get an old book and hold it over your rear cannon to seal it off on idle. You'll find some of the noise goes away but you can still hear the majority of the note.

$10 for an OEM? You must have a nice dealer. Main North Nissan want $19 for em lol. Then again the NVCS SR20 has a different thread to the RB so thus the part numbers are different. (and I believe most other post 1995 Nissans use the same filter) And as everyone can see, the Nissan one has an orange ADBV, so its silicone and thus high quality. Good stuff. Not sure about that funny lip though, but it must work because the OEM one had one of the fastest times to get oil pressure after start up. Good ol Ryco was like 3 seconds lol.

You need a good quality 10" to get some good bass happening. Try get a 12" if you can fit it. I have a 15" and i still want more for my R&B. lol