Busky2k

Actually .... its a lil more complicated than that. Apparently their 8100 E-Tech 0W40 is a PAO/Ester blend whilst their 8100 X-cess 5W40 is a Group III blend. Hence the fair price difference too. Real world differences? Probably not much unless you do long drain intervals, a rarity on SAU.

Castrol have always been Group III, besides their 0W40 which has been PAO, so I would say they price their 'synthetics' accordingly against Mobil 1. Trex101, we don't get GC down here. Aussies aren't keen on 30 weights. To explain what I said before, Motul Turbolight is a semisynthetic, not even a Group III which makes it a ripoff at $50 a bottle. You can get Group IIIs such as EDGE 5W30 or Helix Ultra for the same price.

That front end looks S15 + an Aston Martin DB9. Bloody when will they become original these days...

LOL I wouldn't call it nasty. It'd be on par with say, Castrol Magnatec. But its not value for money. Shell Helix Ultra or Castrol EDGE 5W30 would be better choices in the same price range!

Oh yeah and cool temps as Cubes says, plays a major factor i hard disk MTBF. I like to have a slow fan blowing on them (eg 7V) which is dead quiet but drops the drive temps by 10C or more. Use HDTune to verify HDD temps!

Overclocking vid cards most of the time give you the best performance boost in games, especially at higher resolutions. I use an app (eg ATI Tool) which automatically overclocks the video card to my settings when a D3D game is launched, and back to underclocked settings upon exit. In regards to the WD drives, a few were not detected in BIOS anymore, others made funny sounds and others just randomly lost data/bad sectos. Heaps of shit really.

The number of friends who's had WD's die on them is astounding. Especially those WD JB drives, the first drives to be 200GB at an affordable price...

The Hankook K104 is a good tyre for the price as I've had them before. They should be just under your budget!!

Perhaps it isnt as efficient as a 'cat' compared to your old one?

Since it aint locked yet, stay away from oil additives. 99% of them are rubbish.

Not suprising.. thicker oils have been found to run at higher oil temperatures. Thinner oils cool better and have less friction!

Theres heaps of info in the "General Maintenance" section.

Good choice on the Castrol, their 0W40 product is also of high quality. PureOnes are also a very good choice, streets ahead of Ryco and I'd say Nissan OEM too.

In my opinion the M1 0W40 is a superior product. As an anecdotal note, its factory fill for many top European cars such as Aston Martin and AMG.

Yeah that is true too. In my daily the shocks are stupidy stiff yet the springs are soft as. And it judders just as bad as my 200SX which has significantly harder springs. Funny I can push down on the front of my daily very easily where as the 200, I can't even push it down 1mm!

Yeah those spring rates are pretty damn hard for a street S15. You can still buy springs from them separately. The thing is, would the shock still be appropriately valved for say, 4kg/3kg F/R springs?

I'm not real sure. Its probably something you'll have to ask Castrol. Maybe just a marketing thing? I would hypothesize that the 10W60 has higher levels of additives but without an oil analysis, I cant say for sure. Funny its the inverse with Mobil, where Mobil 1 5W50 is a fair bit cheaper than their 10W30.

Got pics y0?

subzeroR33, I mentioned this in another thread but basically there is no harm in switching oils. Oils themselves continue to go under reformulation as industry standards change (API/ACEA/OEMs etc) so that Castrol R you bought 3 years ago is not the same as what you buy today. I'd say on your next oil change give the 0W40 a go, eg the Castrol Edge 0W40 and see how you like it. My bet is you will. Cheers. Edit - Oh yeah and bin that Nulon stuff. Teflon dont belong in engines. Even the inventors of Teflon said so themselves.

Hi Sol32. Unless your car is used on the track, stick with the 10W40! In terms of how much to put in, pour in 4L and then top up in 100ml amounts until its correct on the dipstick. Start the car, let the oil filter fill up and then reassess again.

Can't go past Whiteline for the price!

Beer Baron, there is nothing wrong with having a wide VII spread with high quality basestocks such as POA and Esters. Its when you use lots of VIIs in mineral oils which don't have good VII properties to begin with. Motul claim they don't use any VIIs in their 300V line. Pretty interesting.

^^. Thats Autobarn in the USA. Its not for just for diesel engines. It is also rated for petrol engine use too (ie mixed fleet, as stated in the TDS and the bottle itself) and just so happens to work exceptionally well as proved through many oil analysis.

Yeah but getting a lux euro car with decent performance costs you a bucketload. Who would want to downgrade from a modded skyline to a 318i or C180 with wheelchair performance....

40-50psi on idle? Sounds too much. The old general rule was 10psi/1000rpm. So theoretically if you rev it to 2500rpm and you've already got max pressure, thats not a good thing because after that, the oil is being bypassed back into the sump. So thus you're recieving the same amount of oil at 2500rpm that you are at 7000rpm. Probably not a good thing, as bearings like lots of oil flow. Anyways have a read of this. Its a good tutorial on why thicker oil is not necessarily better. http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/