Busky2k

Change the diff for a longer ratio. Although I might warn you this thread will turn messy for obvious reasons. I hope this highway was private lol.

Castrol R has been changed to Castrol EDGE. Its all marketing though, as the specifications for all of them haven't changed at all from my findings.

An easier way to measure it is via a oil filter sandwich adaptor, much like this one. Agreed its the oil before it goes into the motor but unlike a radiator, oil doesn't cool much in the sump before it goes back into the motor.

Well there is no reason for an engine to operate rich when under light load.

Nulon AFAIK is 1 bottle per tank (60L)

Nope. The motor burns the vapours which contributes to better emissions (rather than the vapours go to atmosphere.) The black stuff coming out of your exhaust is condensation.

If it got to the point where the cams siezed, the whole engine would be pretty much junk unfortunately And head gaskets are once only use AFAIK.

Not bad oil, its more suitable for track use though due to its heavy viscosity. For a pure streeter I would recommend the EDGE 5W30.

Because the tyres eventually deform because they're being loaded on one spot of the tyre for so long. Not to mention they would harden a bit over time. Nothing a small burnout cant fix though!

Well on 1 dyno day i witnessed a car do 2 runs in 3rd and 4th gear. The difference was only a couple of rwkw. So yeah...

Shit yeah should be a sweet game tonight. Unfortunately I cant head to town though. Its a bit far

Never liked the sound of an internal screamer. Plus for a pure street car it aint needed.

Leave the oil in the car. There is no need to remove it. Its like oil sitting in the bottle you bought it in. Some say to plug up your exhaust incase rodents etc get in but I say it'd be a blast to rev it up for the first time if any made a new home.

Since when was 67kmh in a 60kmh zone a fine?

Lets see. 450hp = ~330kw flywheel style. So you would estimate around 270-280rwkw would be expected. By putting a bigger exhaust housing you can probably pick up another 10rwkw but it really depends on whats holding you back. Is the compressor is at max flow or is the turbine choking the engine? Probably the former. Or both. So, if the turbo is limiting the engine, raising the rev limit will do nothing. On the dyno you'd probably see the power just fall away as the revs rise past the power peak. If the turbo had more steam in her, the power would continue rising. So yeah, you need a bigger turbo to reach your goals. A turbo rated at least 500hp to get comfortably over 300rwkw.

Motrex in Athol Park. Out here in Whyalla where I work, the Mobil distro sells it for similar price too.

But the GT30R is the "GT3076R" #700382-12, CHRA 700177-7? You can find it on page 32 of the Garrett Catalogue. The GT3082R uses a 82mm GT35 compressor, so its a hybrid of the GT30 turbine with a GT35 comp. The Garrett's GT3071R on the website are all the T2 type which are rated around 450hp because they have the cut down 56mm turbine, integral wastegate and T2 flange. In the T3 flange and uncut 60mm turbine config, its then you can get upto 500hp. Funnily enough they do not list the GT3071R in the T3 housing and the uncut 60mm GT30 turbine. But all you have to do is throw on the T3 housing on the proper cartridge and you're done. Anyways come to think of it, if he doesnt mind the lag and he can rev to 9000rpm, maybe the GT30R or even larger might have to be the go. Anyways I'll leave it at that.. gettin messy the thread. Discopotato03 can add some valuable information to this discussion IMO.

I got a daily and its friggin gay on weekend nights I have to resort to driving it. Quite sad really. Its feels as if its a crime to drive our cars.

200hp more? No way. Maybe 20 hp more. Unless you are thinking of the GT3071 T2 flanged version with the integral wastegate which is definitely not the same and yes there is plenty of difference. The turbine and rear housing is the same. The compressor is 76mm vs 71mm but the difference is ~50lb/min vs ~52lb/min worth of flow. Thats certainly not 200hp more unless you can get some documentation to prove otherwise? GT3071R http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant...tegory_Code=GRT GT30R http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant...tegory_Code=GRT

Well.. the way I see it is that there is hardly any difference between the power capability of the GT30R and the GT3071R besides the larger compressor which flows a hair more (~2 lb/min). However the GT30R will be considerably more laggy for no huge gain. Gotta watch out going too big on an SR20 or it just becomes a real pig.

I agree. For every 10 posts on ns.com's tech site there is 1 post thats relavant. I'm a tech mod there and it just shits me off.

Also another alternative is the GReddy T67. That has 330rwkw capability on its limits.

The T3 based GT3071R will get you close to 300rwkw. Unforunately the last 10% to get you to 330rwkw will mean another big step again in turbo charger selection and thus more lag egGT3040R. http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant...tegory_Code=GRT I would try the GT3071R. After that, I believe you're just getting too big for an SR20. Just as a quick note, you really need boost to get more power. You either increase the volumetric efficiency or up the boost. Unforunately you cant achieve say 330rwkw on 15psi unless the peak is at something ridiculous like 8000rpm, and the motor has to be damn well set up to achieve such a thing.

I don't have any pulsating on the brake pedal either with slotted rotors. They do make a chaffing sound as the wheels spin around though.

Maybe I should join you Madaz. Straight thru, no muffler or kitties on this car either.