Busky2k

You sure you dont mean rechroming for $800? Thats different!

Nope the ECU doesnt 'lean out' on the highway. It will always shoot for 14.7:1 AFR on light loads no matter what the driving conditions.

Autobarn sells them. Reminds me of a R33 I saw at night a long time ago and I asked him if it was a GTR. He was like "Yeah its a genuine GTR man" and he took off and i could hear the car was an auto. Riigghhtttt...

BP is the barometric pressure. The usual is around 101 or there abouts. At a lower atmospheric BP, the engine will make less power due to the decreased density of the air. So with a lower BP, Shootout mode will correct the reading (ie inflate it) to match what the engine would make at roughly 101 (or whatever the Shootout mode considers standard). So like the temperature probe, false readings can give misleading dyno results. Ie low BP = increased power just like high ITs = increased power. Anyways nice power man, keep up the good work. Once its finalised it must be a real beast, not that it isnt now already! And yeah, more details please!

On the SR20 I could only get to about 75% on the stock AFM using the SAFC so you'd think you wouldnt have to upgrade. But the thing is so bloody small (50mm) that an upgrade is warranted anyway.

You guys think its hot in those crummy photos. Wait till you see it in the real flesh. I reckon I'd be picking up my jaw off the ground! Kudos to Nissan, a car worth waiting for! Well... its been a long time though. Also I wouldn't comapre it to the 997 Turbo. The Porsche is double the price, so you'd expect it to be better.

If its sitting at 0.04V on cruise you're running lean. It should cycle between ~0V and ~0.7V if the O2 Feedback on the PowerFC is working properly. Sounds like the O2 sensor is working right though.

Might be RB26 powered! OK maybe not..

I've got the same problem on my car. From 4000-5500 rpm you hear compressor surge on full throttle, and it sounds like flutter. On the dyno you can see the pod filter/intake piping shuddering. The car still goes smoothly though but I'm not sure why it does it. Its supposed to happen when the engine can't swallow all the air the turbo is pumping. Only thing that solves it is to turn the boost down, but thats no fun now is it?

Hmmm.. I dont ever remember turbochargers being replaced as part of the scheduled service intervals? Not at least in any Nissan Instruction Booklet I've come across.. One would expect a ball bearing turbo to last at least 200,000km I'd say..

I would say by using an EGT gauge and keeping the full throttle EGTs under control, you would reduce your chance of heat failure.

Congrats. Theres definitely still more to go with bigger injectors and more boost! Umm I just noticed that the BP on the shootout parameters is pretty damn low ie 98.8. That might be inflating the figures a bit?

Nah was a broken line on the opposite direction, thats why I guess the Festiva was doing the overtake. Its also the same situation on country roads with overtaking lanes out where I work so I wasnt so suprised.

Back when I moved high schools, from a musical college to a not so musical college, my mates always gave me shit and call me the busker because they thought it was amusing that I took guitar lessons (I was the only one too). I had to take the guitar to school and back so they'd always say I'd be busking in Rundle Mall before and after school for loose change and food, those fags. Somehow they always sang Silverchair songs with my busker name in it too. Got shortened to busky but that was taken on hotmail so it became busky2k, that year I finished Yr12.

Not true, it was a broken line heading down the hill, and solid on the way up. I noticed this when I was there. They've obviously just made it a double solid line now.

Oh yeah the stock BOV trick. Basically you pull it apart into halves and you'll see a small hole to the left of the piston. Jam a screw or something else to plug it up and then reassemble. Stops it from 'leaking' apparently.

I'd be keen to see the results, please post them when you can!

Yep probing the O2 voltage on the ECU harness is a much more reliable way. An easy way to do it is to get a small paperclip, shove it in the right wire 'hole' on the ECU harness, and then alligator clip that to your multimeter. Done!

Why not give Jaycar kevlar splits a go? I've never heard a bad thing about them, and for the price you cant go wrong...

Sounds like you've got mechanical diffs!! Or a shimmed out to the max viscous (unlikely).

Yep 1.1mm is N/A spec for most vehicles.

Probably could clip the turbine wheel to have similar effect... Then again whats the VG30 housing all about again? Cbf seaching..

Probe the ECU at the O2 sensor pin and hold the engine at 2000rpmm for 20 seconds. If the voltage does not fluctuate between 0.1 and 0.8V at least once per second, or just sits half way, or just sits on 0V its pretty much dead. Also I think 40,000ks is a bit short. Most O2 sensors are good for at least 100,000ks in my experience. Hell I have one thats 200,000km old and its still going strong! Highly depends on the make though...

The more heat in the gas and the less in the surrounding components etc the better. Hotter gas through insulation would theoretically help spool up as well. Same goes with wrapping the dump pipe for faster exhaust velocity.

What turbo do you have?