Busky2k

Where did you find out its Group IV? IIRC, its Group III for their street oils and is the reason why its hated so much, Group IV for their race oils eg RP 21. Then again they might have changed their formulation in the last few years, or the speculation was wrong. Hmmm. I'd rather spend the same $$ on Motul 300V or Redline which are proven performers without the questionable hype.

Not a bad tire review. But one thing is for sure, I rarely see Toyo doing well and the Goodyears are almost always in the Top 3, often winning.

I cant be bnothered quoting different paragraphs so here it goes. -Royal Purple is Group III synthetic. A jip because its almost double the price of other Group III synthetics such as Shell Helix Ultra/Castrol EDGE 5W3. -Penrite SIN looks good for track cars. For street cars you might as well use honey its that thick. I anticipate that fuel economy would suffer too. -Street Commodores test is no good. That Timken test is not applicable to how good an oil will perform in an engine. They didn't even heat up the oils to operating temps from what I read. You could put shampoo into a Timken and it would probably do just as good. -5000km is the minimum OCI most oils can go. Unless your engine runs exceptionally rich, sees often track work etc, then 5,000km is good enough at the very least. -Motul Turbolight is not a bad oil but for the money you can do better. Eg Castrol EDGE Group III synthetic. -I buy Delvac 1 for $50 per 5L bottle. Best value for money oil by a long shot and everyone should use it.

Informative reply RB30-POWER.

Not sure about dumping extra fuel in but they do pull ignition timing until it stops. Best to run 98 RON and leave it at that. I would only use an octane booster if you had to resort to 91 Unleaded. Octane booster works alright, the good ones though like Nulon etc. They can raise octane by a few points EG 98 to 100. But continual use is not recommended as they leave deposits.

Yep looks like its running just fine, comparing to the throttle input too. I wouldn't worry at all!

One of my R34 GTR rims have gutter rash. I haven't been bothered to fix it because I'm scared the paint will never match. Damn, pity im not in Melb!

I'd stay with the Motul 300V. That stuff was designed for track use and is a very good choice. I'd probably go with the 10W40 next time to keep the viscosity loss at bay when the oil gets real hot and also for added protection. For coolant you could just run straight demineralised water with Redline Water Wetter. Corrosion protection, highest thermal transfer. For the transfer you could go synthetic like Redline ATF or Castrol's Transmax Z if the transfer case spec's Dexrol III (which I believe it is)

The video's isnt that big Madaz. Only 5mb?

I'd be up for organising a GB. NGK BKR7E, a plug that would fit the bill in the majority of modded cars here on SAU. Or maybe Cubes can see if he can find something ?

Gotta love build ups. Thats some real effort and that FD looks so phat!

Well thats not really the point. EGT gauges are very useful and underutilised I believe. Then again I don't have one either lol.

Yeah actually come to think of it, I've never been able to get my hands on the 0.8mm version. Always the BKR7E-11. Kinda annoying. The guys in the States debate about gapping the -11s down to 0.8mm (or less) as they say the electrode isnt parallel anymore. Still works good though..

Overspeed and EGT are the 2 killers IMO. Its funny, in the States everyone uses EGT gauges. Here downunder, noone uses them at all!!

Interesting find Cubes. I didnt even know there were different shootout modes. Thats dumb really. There should only be one!

Oh, musta misread. Damn

Sweet. Good stuff they have the BCPR7E then! And yeah those sparkies look well and truely shagged. Lucky their cheap! What gap are you running? I've found I can gap V-Powers around 0.1 - 0.15 bigger than NGK Platinums which is a testimony to their efficiency.

Redline is good stuff in specific applications. But it doesn't seem to perform well in all vehicles. 300V is more value for money. Pity Autobarn don't carry the 5W30 so I can't get any on the midnight sale. Be careful, I found their 4L bottles of 300V is still the old stuff ie non Double Ester.

Thanks man Cubes. If they can get it in the 7s, ie BCPR7E, that would be a bonus. Might give them a call later on!

Cubes, can you personally verify that the BCPR6E is V-Power? Interesting. BKR7E are getting harder to track down now... I found them at Autobarn of all places last week!

Cheers pplo. Glad to be of some help. eXc, thats a 'catch' that goes in line between your PCV on your cam cover and inlet manifold. It collects the oil that would otherwise end up in your intake manifold. You can also use it between the cam cover and turbo intake if the barbs are of the correct size. Basically an 'inline catch can' like GReddy's design but smaller. You can't have these venting atmo.

Thats one nice chart. Ruler straight almost!!

Most turbos arent rated at any boost pressure. Most are rated by the absolute max flow of the compressor (choke line) and adjusted then by roughly how well the turbine flows.

Time for a tougher spring. Most likely cant get one for an 'ebay wastegate' though. I have an AVCR and its a pain to set up but its sweet once its all tuned. I used to hate em but now I wouldn't trade it in for any other EBC. SK is right, all boost controllers are going to have a hard time controlling a wastegate thats too weak for the target pressure.

Not bad pricing Whyte. Nice going with the free delivery.