Busky2k

Might be saftey mechanism. It is bad for the bulbs to turn HIDs off and on straight away...

Well being -11s they were pre-gapped at 1.1mm. However at 0.6mm they shouldn't misfire. However to rule out coil pack issues, pick up a bunch of BCPR6ES and a gapping tool. Gap them to 0.8mm and see how you go.

Not bad but it looks like a loose fit around the sides of the front seats ie wrinkles. Can that be straightened out?? (3rd pic). I like how the back seats turned out though!

WazR32GTSt, looking forward to your pics/write up. So the black isn't that great? Hmmm

Yeah. An easy way to tell is to rev the engine to 5000rpm in neutral. The O2 sensor should go rich when you flatten the foot ie >0.7V, then down to 0.0V when you back off the accelerator. Then it should be back to normal on idle again. Sorry in my first reply I mean that it should occillate betwen rich and lean. The upper (rich) and lower values (lean) are ~0.0V-0.2V and the rich range should be ~0.7V-0.8V

If its cycling or occilating between rich and lean on cruise, then its working good.

Hey man is that an S14 seat? Can you verify it? If so, I'm damn keen. How much extra is the wrinkle look?? Cheers.

You got a PowerFC or is it stock?

No. It should occillate between 0.0V - 0.2V and 0.7 - 0.8V. 0.6V is not 'low enough'.

No powerFC adjustment necessary. On a mild car the difference would be 2 tenths of f**k all. On a heavily modified car it may make a difference.

I think maybe SK got it around the wrong way??

Well if its that TPS track thats blown, chances are, the whole thing is stuffed because its not exactly directly hooked up to the battery if you get what I mean Oh Cubes what have you done!

Damn Cubes bad luck..... hope you haven't fried your wallet on this one too.

Nope. ADM is 440cc aswell. They are not 480cc as everyone says because they were measured at a different pressure.

Time for an MSD DIS4 + 3 coils in waste spark config. That'll fix your sparky issue! Unless theres a 6 channel CDI on the market..

The S15 injectors were measured at a different fuel pressure, compared to the S14's. Theyre more like 440cc when compared to the S14, FYI anyway.

Yes very true , but it really depends on the engine too. Some go into relief just off idle. Others don't until 5000rpm etc. So different viscosities behave differently between engines. For example a 10W60 might go into relief at 4000rpm, but a 10W30 in the same motor might not go into relief until 6000rpm. So the latter oil would provide more flow for the same pressure. Whilst the fuel economy benefits between thick and thin are small, they are definitely there but we're not talking say a trend you could see just over 1 tankful. For example, an ILSAC GF-4 rated oil must show 2% (IIRC) better fuel economy than a refererence fully synthetic 10W30. Moreover, many manufacturers in the USA are moving to 5W20 purely for fuel economy reasons. I believe people who would benefit the most from a thinner oil is one who does frequent short trips, where the cold viscosity differences between a 10W60 and a 10W30 are very large. However I wouldn't say a thick oil would make you loose power compared to a thin on the dyno as the differences are down to the margin of error. Cheers

Thats a bit of oil pressure! The fuel economy would suffer a smidge too. The 10-15psi/1000rpm is a good general rule to go by.

No vibrations here.

Castrol doesn't use Moly from what I've seen. No big deal though, Moly is overrated. 300V has the highest moly concentration I've seen. Kinks, how do you know the oil is 'worn out'? Just by looking at the color, it doesn't tell you anything. Natrually Cubes you wouldnt have used a drop of the Castrl 10W60 or the M1 5W50 because they are thick as

The Shootout parameter, IT (intake temp) is 55C. That would overinflate your readings by a good amount. Cheers PS on a side note, since when did R33s reach 180kmh in 3rd gear lol.

Yeah must be an SR thing. Power in any gear. Or.. I again need a bigger turbo I guess by dropping the boost back and getting the same load, that means that your boost is tapering up top? So just a phatter midrage with larger boost... Still cool I say.

Ah but what I mean in my experience that despite the lack of 'load' in 1st or 2nd gear (wheelspin in both gears), I still get pretty much the same AFM readings, both on my old car with a stock turbo and my current car with a bigger one. Hmmmm...

I'm pretty sure Optimax is 98 RON. On a personal note I prefer it least of the 3 98 RON fuels on the market.

Well one would think that in lower gears the less load on the motor will mean potentially less power with a turbocharged car. But how come when I gun it in 1st gear to redline I'll still get the same peak AFM voltage as I would if I had kept going through the gears? Ie ~4800mV on a Z32... its interesting cos first gear only last a split second where as 3rd might last about 5 seconds which gives plenty of time for the turbo to spin hard. Its been the same case in both cars I've had.