Busky2k

If you think the 2530's were laggy, the GT-RS will be laggier again by a LONG shot. GT-SS is worth a try for sure. Try reading this thread; http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/showthread.php?p=455348

Nightcrawler made high 190s with the stock turbo. Theres still more to go though, as I've seen upto 210 is the norm. Cammed of course.

Hey man you will notice the difference but its more of a support modification rather than an all out power getter. Ie with the FMIC you can run more boost safely etc etc.

I'd rather put my sneakers on than resorting to not putting 98 RON petrol in my vehicle! Thats the last place to cut corners on a budget I say.. Edit - BTW I believe with the ignition retard, your fuel economy will suffer so you wont save much $$ at the end of the day. Maybe enough to pay for a cup of coffee and thats it.

Nah I found even in a warm day it wont run like it would on cold night. But the performance difference between a hot day and not wasnt as large with a FMIC. On a hot day, everything else heats up more like the plenum etc which also affects performance.

Nah the Trust T518z made 1.2bar at 3000rpm, the funniest thing about it was that I couldnt even do that with my stock turbo on my old S14. But despite this, the stock turbo is still more responsive below 3500rpm due to the lower inertia of the comp/turbine wheels. ie builds boost faster when u flex ur foot. The whole BB vs nonBB on the S15 is a completely messy issue, with everyone claming a different thing. Basically most late model S14as and S15s came with BB cores but some claim from their findings they didnt. The JDM ones are BB as far as I know. To tell if the T28 is BB or not, just take a look at the turbine housing and it'll have a separator lip between the wategate and turbine outlets. But why bother with a stocker, its basically a GT25R. If you had to try a Garrett turbo off the shelf, I'd try the GT28RS which as the higher flowing comp/turbine wheels. Same diameter tho! I reckon they'd work pretty damn well on an RB20. I think discopotato can chime in a bit here and fill you in some more.

Those figures I quoted were from my own vehicle. I guess that makes me an supreme optimist? I'm not here to start an RB vs SR war but the 'which S15 turbo' thread was naturally started on the wrong forum pretty much haha! Anyways even my old 125,000km S14 SR20DET made 195rwkw (0.9bar at peak power) on its standard turbo so I dont think the 'freshness' has much to do with it. Its probably because the turbo is half decent for a stocker! Going any bigger than a 2530 compromises response by a fair margin.

I dont understand the issue here. Why cant we know the brand we are buying?

You might be able to get away with 7500-8000rpm with stock cams, but throw in a pair of HKS/Tomei or whatever uprated cams and you won't be able to push it as far without trouble! (on stock springs of course)

Actually Cubes its the opposite for a turbocharged motor. IIRC, the S14/15 SR20DET NVCS runs 22 deg of overlap between 1050-5700rpm and then 2 deg overlap outside this band for smooth idle/top end power. (I'll update the proper numbers tonight) The extra overlap in the midrange helps spool up the turbocharger sooner + extra midrange response and there is a real difference in midrange torque when comparing the NVCS and non NVCS SR20s. Unplug the NVCS solenoid harness (permanant 2 deg overlap) and feels as if the engine is pulling a trailer! Anyways back to topic, the GReddy/Trust T518z (TD05H-18g) is the turbo I recommend. What turbo can give you 250+ rwkw and give you 1.2 bar at 3000rpm (in high gears of course)? I love it!! SR20 POWAAARR... lol

What happened to the 'power sells cars, torque win races' statement Mr Cubes SR20 Power! Ok just had to say that...

Yes for a stock O2 sensor but not for a wideband. It should do it about 1 time per second at the very least, but a new sensor will 'cross over' 3-5 times per second.

A lightweight flywheel will certainly help off boost response I've found, especially in 1st and 2nd gear! I'd definitely give it a go..

I've noticed that the closed loop on the PowerFC is pretty good. Cruising, accelerating lightly, idling etc, my wideband is always reporting a stoich AFR. I guess it comes down to how close your base map is to stoich! (and the condition of the factory O2 sensor)

Have you got any good pics of these? I'm kinda skeptical and I dont wanna find out 6 months later these things blow and I gotta beat around the bush for months getting it fixed under warranty etc. Otherwise I'm damn interested!

Damn that sux! AM alarm it is then!

Exactly. You get more boost the more you put your foot down. Just keep the revs lower (dont change above 3000rpm), don't warm up the car longer than 30 sec, anticipating red lights, steady and smooth accelerator control etc can all help.

The NATS system uses the stock horns as the siren. To set it off, sit in the car and lock the doors and wait for at least 30 seconds and then its armed. (Do you have a "Security" LED light that flashes?) After this, just unlock the car with ur finger and open the door. It should go off. The S14 NATS v1 keys were slim and definitely weren't chipped. I think you might be right that your key may be chipped. Get one cut and it'll be interseting to find out. NB: Dont have the original key anywhere near the car though!

Its highly unlikely nissans stuff is synthetic, and its probably no better than GTX3. I'd just use the new Castrol EDGE 5W30 (the R stuff is discontinued) as its not bad value for money.

But its the same with a bush bearing. Fill it up with oil and it'll have less play. I didnt think a ball bearing race would have been the same, and moreover they dont use much oil ie restrictors.

The S15 came with NATS v2 where as the S14 came with NATS. NATS 2 would ID the driver key via RF before it allowed the ECU to start the car. The original NATS was not like that at all. I'm not sure if the R34 came with NATS 2 but I wouldnt be suprised if it did. Its still not a proper alarm with a shock sensor though. With either NATS you could bust a window, jump on the car or whatever and it wouldnt set off the alarm. Only if a door/boot/hood was opened, then it would go off. Thats my concern with factory immobilisers so it cant help to get microwave/shock sensing type alarms.

If you want some value for money tyres, give the Hankook Ventus K104s a go. They're not rubbish like the Nankangs are and for the money they are good stuff. My mate had Nankang NS-1s or whatever and they were horribly noisy, poor grip and all of them wore out unevenly. Dodgy stuff! Do a search on the forums for peoples impressions on the Hankooks. Personally I have them and give them 2 thumbs up. Sure they are no Bridgie SO-3s but I don't drive hard enough to warrant their ridiculous cost. For the record I paid $250 ea for 255/40/17s.

I'm glad you're not my son lol.

no siht!

You sure about that GT2871R turbo selection cubes? They're not exactly super responsive responsive on the SR20 so I would imagine the RB20 would be a bit worse. Maybe the 71mm 48 trim might be alright but... its definitely less responsive than having a 60mm compressor. I would say GT28RS if you couldnt get your hands on a GT2530! But you'll need a T3-T28 flange adapter IIRC.