adam-__-

Is your oil milky? How long has it been since the motor was last started/run? It could be just from condensation in the motor, do an oil change and if there oil keeps turning white, then you've got problems. Blown head gasket, warped head, etc. Edit: Don't run your motor for too long with the milky oil. The oil no longer lubricates like it should and cause damage to your motor if it already isn't damaged..

My car used to have a 'clunking' noise out back over bumps and it turned out to be stuffed shock. One of those Pedders $14 checks will be able to tell you for sure though.

I had a spark plug snap on me a few weeks back. I just thought I had snapped it with my socket. Instead of pulling the socket off straight out, I did it on an angle or something. Was running Bosch items, only about a week old.

Very keen on this one.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't firesport.com.au just a site where people post their stuff up for sale? Similar to what trading post does? I've bought things off that site before and it wasn't from a business. Just private (mostly) people selling things.

Silver 32's running 18 x 10 + 18 with 235/40/R18 tyres out back.

Happy Birthday mate!

Happy Birthday man! Saw your car at DT the other day, looking good!

The xenon bulbs and ballasts would've been taken out at compliance. No idea how that makes it any more safer, but anywho... You should be able to purchase the standard kit and reinstall it if the standard cables haven't already been chopped to suit the H1 globes. If you can find out what the standard globe size is, I guess you could always just get a kit off eBay and install that into your car. You'll be using the current wiring though (the one modded for H1 globes). Sorry I couldn't be any more help.

Yeah, sorry I can't give you any details on the wheel specs mate. I had them saved somewhere, but can't seem to find it. Must've copied the specs and never saved it.

Happy Birthday mate!

I can't believe how I read through all that. hahaha Uni holidays, so much studying to do. So hard to even start studying, but when you do, you only go for 5mins then go do something else...

Are these the wheels you're talking about? CST Hyper Zero 1 wheels. They no longer make these brand new if I remember correctly. Haven't seen them for sale much around here either (I don't look in the for sale section much). Probably best to keep an eye out on yahooauctions japan. No one can tell you what the 'best offsets' are. It's all in personal taste. Some like the wheels to be hanging outside of the guards, 'Mexican spec', some like it inside the guards so that they don't rub the guards, some like it to be right on the guard, etc. Let us know which style, or how you like your wheels to sit then it'll be easier for us to decide which offset and width is best for you.

Give 'n15m0' a PM. He's a wheel whore from the sounds of things ( ) and he used to run professors' too. Give him a PM and he should be able to get back to you with his experiences on which wheels will fit and what's needed for them to fit.

I think what you mean is Type M brakes? Only R34 GTR's came with M-spec gear. Are you trying to find out whether or not your brakes are 4pot? The 4pot brakes have a name on the calipers, something starting with the letter 'S'. I can't remember. Post a picture and we should be able to tell for you though. Edit: All turbo models should have the larger 4 piston brakes if I remember correctly. Edit edit: 'Sumitomo' should be printed on the calipers. If you've got that word on them then you've got the larger brakes. Don't know if that's a good way of seeing if they're the 4 pots though. Just pull pads out, see if there's 4 pistons underneath. haha

I've got one. Had it for over 2 years now I think. Second owner in Australia. Not much done to it at all.

If the HID kit you've got installed is like the ones I've seen, there shouldn't be any need to purchase another kit. The original wires should still be there for you to reinstall the halogen globes. The plugs which are supposed to be plugged into your halogen globes are currently plugged into the ballast which is plugged into the HID globe. All you have to do is unplug the wire which goes into your ballast and connect that up to your halogen globe. I hope that made sense. Also going to a H1 globe if your headlight originally took H3C, it's not going to be much better than having the HID's in there because the focus point will still be out of place (it will still shine light in the wrong directions). It would be better for you to purchase the newer series head lights which took H1 globes.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ab...l=unit++rebuild This is the thread Duncan was referring to.

I highly doubt you've got Honda Euro projectors retro fitted into your headlights if you have to put tape over the top half of your headlights to make it better for on coming traffic. What you're doing there is blocking the glare which is produced from installing HID globes into a housing which were designed for halogen globes. The easiest option would be to just turn your headlights down, but all you're doing is using your glare to light the road ahead of you up. The best thing to do would be to install halogen globes. If the kit they've got installed to have the HID's in are like the kits I've seen. All you'll have to do is unplug the wires which go into the ballasts and plug them into your new halogen globe.

It's supposed to be wheels which tuck under (sorry I don't have any proof from vicroads site), but chances are if you're wheels even get that close to your guards, they would've went over the amount of track they allow anyway. That or they dick you for having 'tyres which are the wrong sizes' on your wheels.

Where's the fun in that? I can't remember what the thread was about, but I guess it was to be 'different'.

Have a look around for someone who's got 4 stud wheels to sell you their spares. S13 owners who buy these nuts should have some. I've got 4 spare blue Ray nuts here, but they're the wrong brand, wrong colour and the wrong thread pitch. I got my nuts for ~$120 delivered.

This car isn't it?

Haven't been to one of these Narre KK meets before, I'll probably drop by if I end up having nothing to do.

I always thought the standard limiter was built into the ecu. Someone probably retuned the ecu to have a higher rev limit? A BeeR limiter will be safer on your motor than the standard one. Standard limiter cuts your fuel, your car runs lean and can damage the motor whereas the BeeR cuts the ignition, safer. With the BeeR you can choose when you want the limit to be as well which is good. Just set it to where the standard limit should be. Correct me if I'm wrong. I'd hate to be spreading wrong information I've read off others.