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Strik3r

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  1. interesting.. when we pulled my motor down for a freshen up, we found all 6 cam cover baffle bolts from one side in the sump. Amazingly they seem to have done no serious damage to anything (some marks on one of the cam shafts, but engineers have pronounced it fine. Wonder how commonly this happens.
  2. instead of paying well over $1k for an OEM coil pack, get a set of spitfires. I run Spitfire coils and a HKS TwinSpark. No spark issues. @ 620hp atw.
  3. not good duncan. I'll point Dan to this thread as he does all of my oil analysis and has had some in depth discussions with the oil test guys, but i think you have already in the nail on the head with the copper/lead being the different layers of the bearings. The change in oil viscocity could be due to fuel dilution. 7.2% is quite high (i think mine is around 3.5-4%) and would have a significant impact on the viscocity of the oil. p.s. we use WearCheck for our oil analysis, and i think they are a bit cheaper than that ($40 or less a pop if memory serves)
  4. almost. My understanding is that you want to drive your car so that you spend the most amount of time with the most amount of torque. My car makes peak torque at 5000rpm and holds it till 6500 before starting to taper off. So i shift at just past 7500 because that puts me back into peak torque for most gears For my car with my gear/diff ratio's/tyres: Gear Change RPM drop (change @7200) RPM drop (change @7500) ------------------------------------------------------------- 1 -> 2 -3023 (to 4177) -3149 (to 4351) 2 -> 3 -2486 (to 4714) -2589 (to 4911) 3 -> 4 -1906 (to 5294) -1985 (to 5515) 4 -> 5 -1728 (to 5472) -1800 (to 5700) Gear Change RPM drop (change @7700) RPM drop (change @8500) ------------------------------------------------------------- 1 -> 2 -3233 (to 4467) -3569 (to 4931) 2 -> 3 -2658 (to 5042) -2934 (to 5566) 3 -> 4 -2038 (to 5662) -2250 (to 6250) 4 -> 5 -1848 (to 5852) -2040 (to 6460) Remember power and torque have a direct relationship. P = (Torque x RPM) / 5252. You aren't going to be in your peak torque range without having most of your power coming on. For the dyno sheet you posted, it makes peak torque at 4000rpm and holds most of it until about 5600 when it starts to slowly taper off. It also makes 75% of its power at 4krpm. So the most effective powerband would be 4000 -> just shy of 7krpm (pretty obvious for what looks to be a mildly modified engine). You then pick your shift points so that you stay in that power band. Well, thats what i've been taught anyway
  5. yes.. pretty good starting point. After that, you'd need to adjust based on what the car was doing.
  6. 2mm toe out in the front 1mm toe in in the rear.
  7. If you adjust the fuel regulator, the AFRs wont change at all...
  8. well thats hardly true. your lift pump will hardly ever outflow your pressure pumps. consider that 2 044's are going to be flowing a combined total of somewhere over 400 litres an hour (each should be good for at least 3.5litres per minute). Pretty sure a carter pump is only about 300 l/hr. The point is that the fuel that is unused returns to the surge tank. As Hyped6 was getting at a few pages ago, you need to work out how much fuel your engine uses, make sure your pressure pumps can supply it, and make sure that your lift pump flow + surge tank volume can provide enough fuel to the pressure pumps to last for whatever the car requirements are. Track cars obviously will put the highest demand on the pumps, whereas drag cars only have to last for 10-15 seconds WOT.
  9. No Simple math. Area of a circle (pipe) = pi * r^2 since pi is constant, we can ignore it and just look at the r^2. 2 * 2 ^ 2 (8) is LESS than 1 * 4 ^ 2 (16) 2 * 3 ^ 2 (18) is LESS than 1 * 6 ^ 2 (36) you can multiply those numbers by pi to get actual surface area measurements. 1 4" pipe flows JUST under what 2 3" pipes will do.
  10. unless you have a hole in your turbine housing and are effectivly blowtorching the turbo beanie, there is no way you should kill it with 1 track day. I find that the seems/corners of the exterior fabirc tend to crack/split. but even as they get a bit ratty, they still perform their function well.
  11. I run one of those Turbo by Garrett turbo beanies. They tend to deteriorate a bit over time.. I've had my current one in there for 9 months and its still in pretty good nick, but the one before it was well and truly shagged after ~2.5 years of use. Maybe this one is slightly better quality. Definitely helps keeping the heat in the exhaust housing and away from the engine.
  12. I have a genuine 500rwhp (closer to 540 actually, but lets say 500) and I did an 11.5 @ 126mph. Spose the 32GTR's weigh a bit less. Those online calculator thingies tend to agree with me though: Vehicle Weight In Pounds 3250 (1475kg with fuel and driver) 1/4 Mile Trap Speed in MPH 126 Your Rear Wheel Horsepower is: 507.3964497041419 Which is pretty close to what my dyno says. If i change the weight to 1425kg for a 32gtr with fuel and driver: Vehicle Weight In Pounds 3141 1/4 Mile Trap Speed in MPH 125 Your Rear Wheel Horsepower is: 478 Still a lot more than 290kw... Meh, you have the slip that says you did it. Kudo's to you. Maybe you guys are all skinny bastards and are better at stripping your cars out than me
  13. 125mph ??? thats 500+ rwhp trap speed..... were you able to repeat it (not necissarily the 11.36, but moreso the 125mph) ?
  14. You don't need to remove the sump to do it in the car.
  15. I'm guessing they are gts-4 diffs ? I've put them in mine. Took the crown wheel and pinion out of the gts-4 diffs and put them inside my GTR diffs after having them cryo treated for extra strength. Difference is definitely noticeable in 3rd and 4th.
  16. sweeeeeeeeeeet (410kw for those who can't be bothered doing the conversion).
  17. is that with the intake temp sense mounted at the intake, or over on the wall ?
  18. thats a company website trying to sell pumps... they have written that information themselves, and it contradicts the numbers provided by bosch on their website (www.bosch.com.au)
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