GTS4WD

Interested depending on design.. Pics? How small?.. measurements?

I suppose it may be a little "ricey" but can be pulled of very nicely.. You have XD9's which arw a great rim. Why not try the pergormance parts brand name down the front of the doors? Looks pretty decent if you ask me.. I feel like a bit of a hippocrit though.. I beleive if you dont have the parts in your car.. dont adversite you do have them.. but no one is going to know I suppose.

Does this mean they will get rid of alot of the pointless crap the GTR has for the Vspec? Could we see a stripped and caged version like the Porche RS? Surely Nissan has their sights set on sticking it to ze German's. This Battle Royal is going to be a real life Japanese version of Super Mario Kart!!! The only thing im not looking forward to is hearing from everyone how bloody awesome the new LFA bottom end is going to be.. just like the old one.. and how much boost you can run on standard internals blah blah blah.. For Honda's sake.. lets hope the new NSX wont be as big of a flop as the old one..

Hey mate.. If you need it, I think I still have the R32 workshop manual - pm me if you need it

It was a RED one in the little kick pannel near the steering collum. It was a fuse for; Alturnator revers lights something something something It ran a bucket load of things.. but have a look, may be worth it.. the huge speed pump may have loosened one of the fuses to which the cor does not agree with..

just a question.. Help me decide.. Do I; A) Paint the bonnet and grill silver to match the rest of the car B) Paint the bonnet matte black and the grill silver C) Paint the bonnet and grill matte black Will get another couple of pics up soon..

Engine swap? The body may have done 60K. But the engine may have done more.. Just a thought.. not an attack on anyone..

Everyone has to start somewhere.. so why not just start by doing things yoruself oh.. and by the way.. the Technichians comment!.. SO true!

You may also need part of a manual harness to mate up to the auto part of the wireing. I may be wrong. Have alook to see if they do mate up and use the .PDF file to cheak to see if the wire positioning match. You can also pull the lugs that are attatched to the wire to change the order that the wires sit in the connector.

Yip theres 3 sets of connectors right next to the fuse box. They are attached to the strut tower.. Its the bottom one.. it has a total of 8 wires - 2 by 4

Can't be aftermarket.. Definately is stock. That bracket fits in too well to be aftermarket.. +1 fot following the cable.. OH! WAIT! S1 or 2? Because I know that nissan put in a exhaust valve mechanism that open under WOT and stays closed at lower RPM to help muffle an RB25 metallic resonating between 2-3 grand RPM

Stock examples means there is less risk some dodgy backyard mechanic has fooled around with it, done a bodgey job and therefore has a higher risk of something major going wrong. Selling a car is a very unpredictable move. Its all about the market, who wants what, what the "cool" thing at the moment is, what specific people are looking to buy a car etc. It only takes one person to like your car for it to be sold. Because your car has rims pod and wheels that may be an insentive for someone to buy your car over another one. Bear in mind; you may be getting a higher profit if you sell the individual items before you sell the car. Modified is not always best. A good freind of mine has a Mitsubishi Galant VR4 (very similar to an EVO 3) for sale in Sydney,180 AWKW, bullet proof driveline, everything of the highest workmanship, tuned by a bloke who tunes EVO's for rally and is VERY highly reguarded.. all for 8K.. and absolutely no one wants it Best thing to do.. it notify the seller in the add your willing to sell with or without mods.. and just keep going with the ad.

+ and a fixed back bucket seat is a very good idea too

Bare minimum requrements; RWD Manual Welded/Locked diff Hardcore weight saving - I am assuming this wont be your daily so piss off EVERYTHING that weights more than 100grams and is not ESSENTIAL for the car to move (Air con, power steering, all interior, audio etc.) Then; HD Clutch Front and rear strut and sway bars Second hand coilovers Decent tyres for the front Still have money? Take care of the intake and exhaust of the car and something to bump up power (FMIC & Boost/Cams ecu tune) Your looking at less than 3K for all of the above and you have yourself an awesome starting point to catapult yourself into the world of drifting. What are your options? R31 R32 (a little more expensive) S12 S13 KE70 AE86 (a little more expensive) Out side the typical "drift car" box you also have MA70's RX7 S1/2 And i have seen Ghetto Volvo's that go sideways very well! Have a look around and see what your budget alows you to buy and what you want/like

Hmm.. only 1 sec from stocko to coilovers? But on a positive note, I have HSD HR's in my GTS4 and they are just awesome!

Didnt have the exact same problem, but similar. Cheak all fuses including the cabin ones. Turned out a blew a fuse. Just a side note

Top up brake fluid. Had the same problem

*sigh*.. I want a 260 RS!

An N15 1.6L Auto Poosar! That thing was freaking awesome! Oversteered easier than my 32! That car has seen more sh*t than cars twice its age.. Abused the living daylights out of the poor thing!.. Tought me how to drive well aggressively. Had big plans for the little thing. Independet rear end, disk rears brakes, coilovers, SR16VE stroked to a 2L. But decided to pump the money into my 32. Somtimes I wish i kept it and spent the money on that would of been an awesome ride and very diffrent..

Would you consider post to syd?

Km's make absolutely no diffrence if the engine has only done 50,000km and the rest of the car is in good nic. If you selling without a doubt, Start off fairly high 12K? 11.5? Then lower it slowly according to the demand. Bear in mind that STOCK cars sell for a higher price than cars with simple mods.

Theres a fair bit more down low toque.. The engine is happyier to be at lower RPM. I also noticed that the engine reved out quicker and a little harder. There wasn't much top end again. So there wont be much of a "kw" gain as there isn't much (if any) top end gain where the "peak kw power" is recorded. It will however give you more responce and a slightly wider power band. You will be able to the diffrence on a dyno sheet. The curve will "bulge" earlier (giving you more torque) where there previously wasn't. Dont expect too much from it. Do bear in mind that it is only a small section of the exhaust. Your whole exhaust is as good as its worst bit. You may find that the rest of the exhaust system will need to be replaced with a better flowing mandrel bent 2.5 system to see the full gain of the extractors. P.s. I noticed that the exhaust became a little quiter aswell. Other users have reported otherwise though.

I have gas.

Something even easier.. Why not just do it yourself and save more than half of that 8K?

Hey mate, Sorry but i just picked up a GTR bonnet.. thanks anayways man