STATUS

its probably something that needs to be made clearer as al the turbo s require custom fab work to some degree.

i thought a repin was all that was needed to run a r34 ecu? will have to check my notes.

its so old its not worth using, get a blue or ultimate.

if its a track car block it all off, can always drill a small hole near the butterfly shaft to get a rock solid idle (do not drill too far from centre of butterfly). For a street car i like the AAC, pwr steer load idle up etc...

um yes it will and it will change proportionate to the pressure increase.

Cats car has had a tank of ethanol sitting in it with the filler off and the pump cover removed (open to moisture for 3months) and there is no EVIL shit going on like is rumoured to happen.... i will leave it open to continue experiment engine was internally mint (stripped to sell in parts) and exhaust etc is all fine.

correct i will post it up later toady.

pics of lappy

OK this is my tuning laptop used over the past year, i have had no issues with it and it is super stable for all tuning suites. These were $3500 new I used to use new Toshiba and Sony laptops but they do not like many of the tuner suite programs like Motec etc... as they dont have serial ports. I am selling this laptop as im upgrading to a new Toughbook Here is some info on the Tough books and what they will withstand... water throwing, driving over etc $550 for the laptop and charger (all programs loaded, but no customer tunes) charger has a damaged cover but does not effect operation. Haltech Motec Nistune AEM Microtech Adaptronic FC-datalogit (for Power FC's) Autronic LINK VIPEC HP TUNERS (dongle not included) Tuner PRO

Same as r34 rb25 ecu.

the instructions are pretty clear in the msd kits, fitted allot to control nitrous.

advance up the intake cam with cam gears if not running vct it will help alot. I got good results with 256 degrre 8.5mm lift, i think i ended up around 8 degrees advanced on the intake.. here is the thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...ft-t308743.html

on a quiet car it works, but add forgies (built with big clearances as some guy do ? ) solid head and straight cut boxes and each added noise makes it harder and harder to determine noise from knock.

yeah r34 are around 175-185 leaner mixtures and more favourable timing.

what were the bearing like? any pics?

i have never had one pull over 180rwkw that was std on my dyno... but dynos vary.

maybe right click and save as first, then open with windows media player.

be aware there is nothing to tune on the std ecu... so dont pay for one. A tune on a std ecu is a reset... ie removed battery terminals for more than 30 secs... then doing the timing.

http://www.x-tune.co.nz/

fine

if its full song by 3000rpm no way its gonna make much more than 260-280rwkw, the turbo technics (garret or copy) T38 has a 0.63 rear housing and was designed for small capacity engines around the 2-2.2litre range.... welll strangled on a 3litre

^^^ take it too someone who knows what they are doing, its easy to damage things if your not sure.

Depends on the value you put on your engine, CRD are known to do good work and can charge accordingly..... Tuning is a fluid thing and can be done good bad or everything in between and the prices generally reflect that.... it also keeps the shit out of your shop.

for your power output aim of 640ps Garrett 707160-5 GT25 GT25 47.2 - 60.0 62T 0.6 GT25 GT25 47 - 53.8 76T 0.64 BB ~640PS

Being in a tuning environment all day everyday I get asked alot for information on knock frequency, intensity and how to set up monitoring devices properly. When using Knock monitoring systems you need to input a frequency to monitor use this guide as a starting point. I often get called and asked what starting point to use as it is not something that is easy to find in any literature, i have put together a list of my starting points for a few different engines. If the engine is not listed just ask and i will add it to the list (only takes a few minutes to work it out). RB20 7.3khz RB25 6.7khz RB26 6.7khz RB26 (forged) 6.6khz RB28 6.6khz RB30 6.7khz RB30 (forged) 6.6khz VG30 6.6khz VR38 6.0khz VR38 (4l) 6.0khz VQ20 7.5khz VQ30 6.2khz VQ35 6.0khz SR20 6.7khz SR20 (2.2l) 6.6khz SR20 (2.35l) 6.3khz CA18 6.9khz 2JZ 6.7khz 2JZ (forged) 6.6khz 2JZ (3.4l) 6.6khz 1JZ 6.7khz B16A 7.1khz LS1 5.8khz LS2 5.7khz XR6T 6.2khz XR8 (modular) 6.4khz The first post above is made to centre the frequency @ an approximate target. The bandwidth control is then used to determines how far above and below the centre frequency the device will detect, i.e. the width or spread of frequencies. A narrow bandwidth adjustment is very specific, useful for accurately accentuating a specific knock frequency (if you know it). Narrow bandwidth adjustments tend to have less noise. A broader bandwidth allows more frequencies to be heard, useful for a new set-up where the actual frequency is not known or for initial testing and finding the correct centre frequency. Broader adjustments tend to have more "noise". There is no correct Bandwidth per see but the narrower the bandwidth the less feedback or noise will be recorded or heard. Nice for loose or noisy solid cammed type engines that naturally emit lots of mechanical noise. Below is a diagram: Yellow vertical line is the centre frequency (in this case 6khz) Red horizontal line is narrow bandwidth Green horizontal line is broad bandwidth Here are two sound files click here for sound file 5000rpm heavy constant knock click here for sound file 2500rpm knock induced mid way through sound file then timing backed out to stop it Tools for listening to KNOCK GIZZMO K-MON THE KNOCK BOX i have both of these now for listening to Knock, cant be too safe