AzzurrA

try Allied Express... we use them for work... I used them to ship a box (probably 15 - 20kg actual weight) of Springs (i.e. 4 x car springs) to Perth, from Brisbane, and it cost me roughly $30

we went back over mt glorious, and hit some storms at the top... and then a bad one coming through samford.... REALLY heavy rain, and about 5 or 6 hailstones in a 5km stretch....

don't spose you have the intercooler to go with it do you? *crosses fingers*

hey mate... i was in no way intending to bag Fulcrum out at all, sorry if it appeared that way, i was just passing on my experiences with them... was quite possibly one of those 'other guys' that i spoke to when i called up about my whiteline gear... I was a bit dissapointed when they said that, as i've had a fair bit of other work done by them, and been very happy every time, and wanted to use them again...

Hi all! I'm urgently chasing an R33 or R34 RB25 Turbo... doesn't matter if it doesn't have an actuator, but it needs to have the outlet elbow..... also good condition (i.e. little to no shaft play) Also chasing an R34 GTT Intercooler (Standard Sidemount) with the air guide for the front of it... I'm after these parts pretty urgently, as i need to get my car back on the road, so if you have these, or know of someone with these parts for sale, please, let me know Thanks, Jason

g'day mate, what sort of price bracket are you looking at?

mlttat, does it have the outlet elbow? actuator? what sort of condition is it in?

see, everyone has different opinions on this... i used to have a VK commodore wagon that had a crack from the top to the bottom of the windscreen, right over on the lefthand side... now, i was told by many people that this is roadworthy, and i never had a problem with the police or anything with it... the rule i was told (don't know how correct it is) is that you can't have any stonechips and/or cracks within the arc of the wiper blades

g'day mate... from what i've seen, the going rate for an RB25 turbo seems to be around $300 - $350... what figure did you have in mind?

got mine yesterday, thanks mate Jason

Hi all! I'm urgently chasing an R33 or R34 RB25 Turbo... doesn't matter if it doesn't have an actuator, but it needs to have the outlet elbow..... also good condition (i.e. little to no shaft play) Also chasing an R34 GTT Intercooler (Standard Sidemount) with the air guide for the front of it... I'm after these parts pretty urgently, as i need to get my car back on the road, so if you have these, or know of someone with these parts for sale, please, let me know Thanks, Jason

does it include the elbow?

well, i got quotes today for rebuilds etc... most places want 5 - 6k for just a standard rebuild! ouch! However, was speaking to 101 Motorcafe, and they said they can do a RB25 conversion for me with a low-kay RB25 for around 4 - 4.5k drive in/drive out.... Now, i said to them what sort of things can we check to make sure its not going to grenade itself within a few months etc, and they said that they could do a compression/leakdown test, pull the head off and check that everything looks okay, and also pull the sump off and make sure the bearings etc are okay.... any other suggestions?

Mud, give me a call on 0402 202 978, as the car is not at my house, but at a friends place

Hi All! Need to make some room in my garage very quickly, so i have some R32 and other assorted parts that i've accumulated over a while for sale... *R32 GTR Rear Wing - $100 *Bridgestone Potenza Shocks (front and rear) suit R32 GTS-t - $250/set *Woodgrain Steering Wheel - $30 *Standard R32 GTS-t Front and Rear Swaybars - $25 each *Standard 2 1/2" Cat - $25 *Standard R32 GTS-t Dump & Front Pipe - $25 *Standard R32 GTS-t Rims x 2 (With Tyres, Lots of Tread) - $150 * 2 x Michelin Energy Tyres 215/55/16. Near new - $50 Non Skyline Related Parts: AE82 4AGE Inlet manifold - $80 AE86 diff housing (no centre) - $20 AE86 rear drum brakes - $Free with Diff Housing Holden 202 Inlet manifold - $20 Holden 202 Varijet Carby - $10 Blown Amp - $Free

I should have mentioned.. if i got it rebuilt, it would just be a stock rebuild, with possibly some forged pistons (because they may even be cheaper than standard nissan pistons) I'm only going to be chasing ~200rwkw from the car, so don't have to go overboard with the engine...

Well, i've lunched the turbo on my RB20 on the way to work today... It was the compressor blades that broke (not exhaust like normal) and there is fine metallic dust through the intake, and it appears to be on the tops of the pistons as well... Now, i found larger chunks of metal through the intake, i just don't know if any of those made it into the engine.... Now, the choices i have are: Put another turbo on and hope for the best Buy a wreckers engine and hope for the best Get my current engine rebuilt Now, there are pros and cons of each..... Pros for putting another turbo on.... Cheapest option Cons for putting another turbo on.... Could spend money/time putting it on only to find the engine is fubar, and be in exactly the same situation Pros for buying a wreckers engine.... 'relatively' cheap option Cons for buying a wreckers engine.... don't know past history, it could have been thrashed, on the verge of death etc... could only last a month or 2 before it dies and then i'm back in exactly the same situation Pros for rebuilding the engine.... Will be a brand new engine, you know exactly whats done to it, how its been treated, should last for years and years to come (i'm looking to keep the car for a fair while hopefully, as it owes me too much money to sell), the engine has 190000km on it anyway, so its just about due for a rebuild... Cons for rebuilding the engine.... Is the most expensive option What would you do in this situation? Keep in mind that i need the car for work, but i could probably get away without it for a week or 2....

As i'm sure you all read in the other thread, i've lunched the turbo on my RB20 on the way to work today... It was the compressor blades that broke (not exhaust like normal) and there is fine metallic dust through the intake, and it appears to be on the tops of the pistons as well... Now, i found larger chunks of metal through the intake, i just don't know if any of those made it into the engine.... Now, the choices i have are: Put another turbo on and hope for the best Buy a wreckers engine and hope for the best Get my current engine rebuilt Now, there are pros and cons of each..... Pros for putting another turbo on.... Cheapest option Cons for putting another turbo on.... Could spend money/time putting it on only to find the engine is fubar, and be in exactly the same situation Pros for buying a wreckers engine.... 'relatively' cheap option Cons for buying a wreckers engine.... don't know past history, it could have been thrashed, on the verge of death etc... could only last a month or 2 before it dies and then i'm back in exactly the same situation Pros for rebuilding the engine.... Will be a brand new engine, you know exactly whats done to it, how its been treated, should last for years and years to come (i'm looking to keep the car for a fair while hopefully, as it owes me too much money to sell), the engine has 190000km on it anyway, so its just about due for a rebuild... Cons for rebuilding the engine.... Is the most expensive option What would you do in this situation? Keep in mind that i need the car for work, but i could probably get away without it for a week or 2....

gave chapmans and chapmans a call and they didn't seem to want the business, so i might give them a miss...

anyone heard of 'Tuned Automotive'? They sponsor a friend of mine for Drifting, and he swears by them... i just gave them a call and they seem nice enough, seem to know a bit about what they're talking about too.... going to send me a quote through soon... Their website is: http://tunedautomotive.com.au/

Mud, the thought crossed my mind, but then it occurred to me that you're playing a bit of russian roulette with a 2nd hand engine... don't know if you're going to get a good one or one that will die in 3 months time.... at least with a rebuilt engine you know exactly whats in it, how its been treated etc... And Chaos... i'm glad you didn't suggest them, or i'd have to hurt you They would just out-source it to someone else anyway and then whack a stupid percentage on top of the cost for themselves....

Northside... Murrumba Downs...

Ok, On the way to work this morning, accelerating from some traffic lights (not up it, just driving normally) changed into 3rd and just as i started to come on boost i heard a 'bang' and the car lost boost, and a big puff of browny/greyish smoke came out the back... limped it into a servo about 100 metres up the road, checked for an intercooler pipe off or something... couldn't see anything... Then a guy from East Coast Customs saw the car sitting there after a while, and offered to take a look at it. I limped it to their workshop (like, 2 doors down) and we ripped the intake apart, to find that something has gone through the compressor blades of the turbo, totally annihilating it.... it was then i noticed numerous 5cent piece, and some smaller, sized chunks of metal sitting in my intake pipes, we investigated further, and there's some around the throttle body too... mainly smaller shavings though.... i pulled a spark plug out, and i can see shiny bits stuck in the top of the pistons... I did a search, but couldn't come up with much (recent info anyway) I'm wondering if anyone knows any good engine builders in Brisbane, that actually know what they're doing, do good work, and aren't bloody ripoff artists? Thanks in Advance Jason

This is the letter that i sent to them, it basically explains the situation... the reply that i received to this was them refusing to pay me any money, as i "did not give them the opportunity to fix it"... well, i'm sorry, but i did... i called them on the friday morning (the lock bar broke on wednesday night, was towed to a workshop on thursday, as i did not know what had broken and didn't realise it was the lock bar at the time) and friday morning the workshop got a chance to look at it, told me it was the lock bar, so i called the original supplier straight away... The guy i spoke to there told me to just get the workshop where it is at now to make me a new one and we would resolve it from there... now they are denying that was ever said, and refusing to pay because of it. Anyway, here's the letter: "To The General Manager I wish to bring to your attention several problems that I have experienced with your company as a paying customer. On the 26/07/2005, I had a large amount of suspension work carried out by your business, with which I have encountered numerous problems When I arrived at your workshop to pay for the suspension and collect the car, I was told I had to pay roughly an extra $450 in addition to what was originally agreed upon (I have the documentation that shows how much I was originally quoted for this work). After some negotiation, the price was dropped so that I ‘only’ had to pay an extra $276 more than I was originally quoted. This I begrudgingly accepted on the premise I was getting the job done right and to a high standard of quality. If this were the case, then I would not have reason to write this letter. Unfortunately, since I have had this work carried out, numerous problems have arisen, due to the work carried out by your firm. First and foremost, different springs were fitted to what was originally requested. A representative of your establishment informed me these springs were ‘better than’ and recommended these springs over those that I had originally asked for. I took his word for it on the understanding that he knew the product better than I did, as he was a ‘professional’ in the industry. Unfortunately the new springs are incorrect for the application and contrary to what I was led to believe they would be, as they have lowered the ride height of my vehicle far too low. I now have to spend a large amount of my money and time to correct this issue. When I approached your firm regarding this issue, I was told to take it up with your supplier, and your staff showed no interest at all in resolving this matter. The next issue I had was with a nut in the upper-inner control arm assembly not being tightened to appropriate torque levels. This caused the bolt to come loose and fall out, causing immeasurable damage to my suspension, and also put the car off the road with considerable expense to myself, and a loss of potential earnings. Again, when I approached your firm, I received first of all a denial that it could have been due to the workmanship, and then later I received a statement along the lines of ‘sorry, but these things happen, we can’t do anything about it’. I did not find this attitude acceptable at all. The latest issue in the saga directly relating to the work performed on my vehicle by your company relates to the ‘Hicas Lock Bar’, which was supplied and fitted by your company at the end of July 2005. Again, the ‘Hicas Lock Bar’ is not the one which I originally requested, as, again, I was told by a representative of your company that your ‘Hicas Lock Bar’ was superior to the one I had originally requested. Again, I took his word for it on the understanding that he was a professional in the industry and knew the product better than I did. Whilst driving at 100kph on the highway my vehicle hit a bump, not unlike any other bump you would expect to come across on Queensland roads. As I hit this bump, my vehicle was thrown into the adjacent lane, which put my life and the lives of my passengers, as well as the lives of the occupants of the vehicle travelling in the adjacent lane in danger. Fortunately I was able to regain control of the vehicle and pulled up as safely as possible. Upon inspection it was found that the ‘Hicas Lock Bar’ had broken, allowing my rear steering arm to float in any direction and rendering the car once again immobile. A tow truck was called and I had to have the vehicle towed home, at my expense ($20.00, as I am a member of RACQ and get the first 10km of towing free). The following morning, the vehicle was then towed to a nearby workshop, again, at my expense ($79.20, with Ready Towing). Upon removal and inspection of the product, by a qualified mechanic, it was noted that it appears to have been cracked for some period of time, with rust inside the tube and around the welds. The material used to make this ‘Hicas Lock Bar’ was of inferior quality and in no way suitable to be used as a steering/suspension component on a car. I believe the substandard level of work carried out on my vehicle to be unacceptable, and the terrible quality of your supplied product to be dangerous. I respectfully ask to be refunded in full for the faulty product and the labour that I was charged for installation so that I may acquire and install a similar unit, of acceptable quality, in order to return my vehicle to a roadworthy condition. I also ask that I be reimbursed for my other expenses as a direct result of this incident. These include towing fees and also a wheel alignment. The price that I paid for the ‘Hicas Lock Bar’ was $210.00 inc. GST. Labour for fitting was quoted as $100.00 inc. The other expenses include $99.20 towing fees and $99.00 for a wheel alignment. I therefore ask to be compensated to the amount of $508.20 inc. GST to cover the purchase of a new product, installation and other out of pocket expenses incurred by myself in returning my vehicle to a safe and roadworthy condition."

looks like im out as i lunched my engine this morning by the looks of things... unless someone can give me a lift?